Bondi to Manly - Part 4 - Circular Quay to Taronga Zoo

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Route: Circular Quay, First Fleet Park, Campbells Cove, Hickson Road Reserve, Dawes Point, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Milsons Point, Waterhouse Reserve, Waruda Street, Lady Gowrie Lookout, Elamang Avenue, Milson Park, Sub Base Platypus, Anderson Park, Kurraba Road, Cremorne Reserve, Cremorne Point, Hunts Lookout, Mosman Bay, Curraghneena Road, Sirius Cove, Little Sirius Point, Taronga Zoo

Date: 15/02/2020
From: Circular Quay

Parking: N/A
Start Point: Circular Quay
Finish Point: Taronga Zoo
Region: Sydney

Route length: 8.6miles (13.8km)
Time taken: 04:27
Average speed: 2.3mph
Ascent: 331m
Descent: 327m

Points of Interest: Circular Quay, the Rocks, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Kirribilli, Cremorne Reserve

Bondi and Manly are arguably Sydney's two most famous beaches. While they are only 10km apart, they sit on either side of the vast entrance to Sydney Harbour. When I arrived in Australia, I harboured an ambition to hike the length of the Sydney Harbour foreshore and the introduction of the Bondi to Manly walking track has facilitated just that.

The Bondi to Manly logo features the Aboriginal depiction of a whale

The overall length of the Bondi to Manly track is 80km and while it has always been possible to walk the route, it has now become formalised with signage and a supporting app. Thanks to the extensive public transport network in Sydney it is possible to break up the route into manageable one-way sections. The first leg took us from Bondi to Watson's Bay along the Federation Cliff Walk, culminating at South Head and the beaches of Watson's Bay. From Watson's Bay, the second leg stretches to Rose Bay along the Hermitage Foreshore before entering the city along the third leg, finishing in the CBD at the bustling Circular Quay.

The fourth leg features some of Sydney's most popular tourist areas; namely Circular Quay, the Rocks and the Sydney Harbour Bridge. It also marks the return to more natural coastlines along the sharply incised bays of the north shore.

The sun was shining as we left the main ferry wharves at Circular Quay. Around the west side of the quay is Sydney's famous Rocks district, clustered below the immense harbour bridge. The Rocks is the oldest area of Sydney, having become established shortly after the colony's formation in 1788. The name of the Rocks comes from the rocky coast on the west side of Sydney Cove, where the convicts pitched their tents in the early days of the colony.

Circular Quay and the Rocks

Torrens University in the Rocks

Sydney Harbour Bridge

By the early 20th century, many of the area's historic buildings were in serious decay and, in 1900, the state government resumed areas around The Rocks with the intention of demolishing and rebuilding them. Fortunately, the continuation of these plans was brought to a halt due to the outbreak of World War I. It still took until the 1970s to secure the future of the district thanks to the efforts of local Sydneysiders.

The Rocks

Campbells Cove

Sydney Opera House

Within the Rocks is one of Sydney's oldest buildings, Cadmans Cottage. This modest building was built as the coxswain's barracks in 1815–16. Originally intended as barracks-style accommodation, it later housed four successive government coxswains and their families, as well as offices, until the mid-1840s. John Cadman was the longest-serving.

Cadmans Cottage

We followed the edge of the quayside around Campbell's Cove until we were nearly beneath the immense span of the Sydney Harbour Bridge at Dawes Point. Here, we backtracked up to the site of the former Dawes Point Battery and along to the Bridge Stairs, an art-deco style stairway that climbs to the Cahill Expressway which the bridge carries across the harbour.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Luna Park beneath the Sydney Harbour Bridge

Dawes Point Reserve

We stopped at the Pylon Lookout where for the sum of $19, you can climb the southern pylon for an outstanding view across Sydney and the harbour and a history lesson about the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The south pylons of Sydney Harbour Bridge

Sydney Opera House

Climbing the south pylon

The bridge was designed and built by British firm Dorman Long of Middlesbrough and opened in 1932 (they later went on to build the Tyne Bridge in Newcastle). It is currently the tenth-longest spanning-arch bridge in the world and the tallest steel arch bridge, measuring 134m from top to water level. It is a magnificent beast. In addition to the road, the Harbour Bridge carries a railway and a protected pedestrian footpath which gives a superb view of Sydney Harbour and the iconic Sydney Opera House as well as an intimate view of the steel structure of the bridge itself.

Sydney Harbour

Circular Quay and Sydney CBD

A group of climbers ascending Sydney Harbour Bridge

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Inner Sydney Harbour

The Rocks

Sydney

Sydney Opera House

At the north end of the bridge is the area of Kirribilli, one of the city's most established neighbourhoods. The name translates from the Aboriginal phrase 'good fishing spot'. A set of steps descend from the bridge roadway to the street below where a tunnel crosses to Bradfield Park.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Sydney

The bridge from Milsons Point

Alfred's Street and Milson's Point have some of my favourite views of Sydney which include the harbour bridge, the city skyline and the opera house. It's a very popular place for weddings and today was no exception. A path leads around the harbour, through the Captain Henry Waterhouse Reserve and up to the affluent streets of Kirribilli.

Luna Park

Milsons Point

Bradfield Park

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Sydney

Kirribilli is home to both Admiralty House and Kirribilli House. The latter is one of the official residences of the Australian Prime Minister while Admiralty House is the residence of the Australian Governor-General who is the Australian representative to the monarchy. The role of the Governor-General is to observe the conventions of the Westminster system of parliament. They are responsible for government, maintain political neutrality, and usually only act on the advice of the sitting prime minister.

Kirribilli House

Lady Gowrie Lookout

The Harbour Bridge dominates the streets of Kirribilli

On the north side of Kirribilli is Milson Park, named after Sydney's 1910 mayor. The foreshore park is particularly spectacular in Spring when the Jacaranda trees in and around McDougall Street are in full bloom - a favourite of the Instagram crowd.

McDougall Street

Milson Park

Home of the Sydney Flying Squadron

Milson Park

We followed the streets to North Sydney Wharf and Neutral Bay where a boardwalk enters Sub Base Platypus (the boardwalk has opening times so check before you go). As the name suggests, the site is a former submarine base (also a WWII torpedo factory and colonial-era gasworks). It was home to the Australian Navy's Oberon-class submarines between 1967 and 1999. Now, the remediated site is open to the public with ongoing enhancements to the local facilities including cafes and bars - the tiny Oberon Park is a nod to the previous site’s residents.

Neutral Bay and the entrance to Sub Base Platypus

Sub Base Platypus

Neutral Bay

Sub Base Platypus and Oberon Park

Neutral Bay

A set of steps climb over the retaining wall of the old submarine base and back to street level. We rounded the top of Neutral Bay, passing through Anderson Park and along the leafy streets of Kurraba - another one of the north shore’s fine peninsulas. Eventually, we reached the top of Mosman Bay where we entered the Cremorne Reserve.

Anderson Park

Cremorne Reserve

Cremorne Reserve extends for approximately 3 km around the Cremorne Point Peninsula. The path winds through formal gardens and sections of native bushland until it reaches the ferry wharf at the southern end. Here a short diversion leads to the tip of the peninsula at Robertson's Point. Here you will find the 1909 Robertson's Point lighthouse which, despite being over 100 years old, is still an integral component of the navigational system for Sydney Harbour. It's fair to say the view of the harbour and the city is stunning.

Cremorne Reserve

Properties along Kurraba Point

Shell Cove

Shell Cove

Sydney

Robertson's Point

Sydney Opera House

From the lighthouse, the track returns northwards along the east side of Cremorne Point into Mosman Bay and the beginning of the affluent suburb of Mosman. Mosman forms a peninsula between Sydney Harbour and Middle Harbour and forms a large portion of the Bondi to Manly track.

Mosman Bay

Jasmine Walk

At the head of the bay is a beautiful area of preserved bushland, complete with a tumbling waterfall and lush, green jungle-like vegetation. It's often remarkable to think you're in a city home to some 8 million people The area forms part of Harnett Park and the larger Reid Park at the head of Mosman Bay though the small bushland remains unnamed.

Harnett Park bushland

Harnett Park

Mosman Bay

After rounding the bay we crossed a few residential streets to reach the final bay of the walk, Sirius Cove, named after the flagship of the First Fleet - HMS Sirius. Sirius sailed from the Isle of Wight on 13 May 1787 as the flagship of the eleven-vessel First Fleet, under the command of Captain Arthur Phillip. The 252-day voyage had gone via Rio de Janeiro and the Cape of Good Hope and covered more than 15,000 miles before arriving at Sydney Cove in January 1788.

Mosman Bay

Little Sirius Bay

In 1789, HMS Sirius was refitted in Mosman Bay, which was originally named Great Sirius Cove after the vessel. The name lives on in the adjacent Sirius Cove. On 19 March 1790, Sirius was wrecked on a reef at Norfolk Island while landing stores though the crew survived and were rescued. Her anchor is now on display at the Maritime Museum in Sydney.

HMS Sirius' anchor on display in the Sydney Maritime Museum

The final stretch of the route passes along the west side of Little Sirius Cove to Whiting Beach and onto the ferry wharf at Taronga Zoo. All that was left was to take the scenic ferry trip back to the city, concluding one of the best legs of the Bondi to Manly track. Continue your journey from Taronga to Spit Bridge here.

Little Sirius Bay

Sydney and Cremorne Point

Sydney and Robertson's Point