Bondi to Manly - Part 3 - Rose Bay to Circular Quay

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Route: Rose Bay Wharf, South Head Road, Rose Bay Park, Wunulla Road, Wolseley Road, Seven Shillings Beach, Double Bay Beach, Steyne Park, Marathon Steps, Darling Point Road, Thornton Street, Yarranabbe Park, Rushcutters Bay, Holdsworth Avenue, McElhone Steps, Wooloomooloo, Royal Botanical Gardens, Mrs Macquaries Point, Farm Cove, Sydney Opera House, Circular Quay

Date: 15/01/2020
From: Rose Bay

Parking: N/A
Start Point: Rose Bay
Finish Point: Circular Quay
Region: Sydney

Route length: 7.3miles (11.7km)
Time taken: 02:40
Average speed: 2.7mph
Ascent: 201m
Descent: 197m

Points of Interest: Sydney Opera House, Royal Botanical Gardens, Circular Quay

Bondi and Manly are arguably Sydney's two most famous beaches. While they are only 10km apart, they sit on either side of the vast entrance to Sydney Harbour. When I arrived in Australia, I harboured an ambition to hike the length of the Sydney Harbour foreshore and the introduction of the Bondi to Manly walking track has facilitated just that.

The Bondi to Manly logo features the Aboriginal depiction of a whale

The overall length of the Bondi to Manly track is 80km and while it has always been possible to walk the route, it has now become formalised with signage and a supporting app. Thanks to the extensive public transport network in Sydney it is possible to break up the route into manageable one-way sections. The first leg took us from Bondi to Watson's Bay along the Federation Cliff Walk, culminating at South Head and the beaches of Watson's Bay while the second leg stretches from Watson's Bay to Rose Bay along the Hermitage Foreshore.

The third leg is perhaps the least appealing of the entire walk as the majority passes through the eastern suburbs of Sydney before reaching the CBD at Circular Quay, with precious little harbourside walking. That said, it has an ace up its sleeve, as you'll see later on. I walked this section on a hazy afternoon after work.

Rose Bay

From the Rose Bay wharf, the Bondi to Manly route continues west along a concrete promenade that runs along the wide sweep of Rose Bay to the beginning of Point Piper. The point is home to large properties which front the harbour, limiting access for hikers. It is regarded as Australia's most expensive suburb with houses being bought and sold in excess of $60million.

Shark Island

The promenade along Rose Bay

Wolseley Road does a loop of Point Piper, with the shortest of diversions down a set of stairs leading to Duff Reserve, a small patch of grass sandwiched among the jetties and pools of the properties. Wolseley Road itself is among the most expensive streets in the entire world though isn't particular photogenic thanks to the high walls and gates which surround everything.

Sydney Harbour

Duff Reserve

Duff Reserve

Hidden down St Mervyns Avenue is an alleyway which leads between the houses to Seven Shillings Beach. There are two existing ideas regarding the name of the beach, the first being a Sydney resident giving an Aboriginal seven shillings compensation for his fishing rights to the bay. Another explanation states a nurse employed in the area lost a purse containing 'seven shillings' on the beach. The route passes along the 300m long beach to the western end which is backed by the leafy Blackburn Gardens, a beautifully restored heritage garden.

Seven Shillings Beach

Seven Shillings Beach and Diendagulla

Seven Shillings Beach

The swimming area at Seven Shillings Beach

Sadly there is no harbourside route between the gardens and Double Bay wharf (an option to break up the walk if you wish). The beach at Double Bay leads to Steyne Park and a set of stairs which lead to Darling Point Road. Along the way, I passed one of Sydney's preserved 1930s electricity substations which can be found scattered across the city. Many of these are aesthetically distinctive and finely detailed.

The leafy Stafford Street

Climbing to Marathon Road

One of Sydney's substations

Darling Point

Darling Point Road is a very pleasant tree-lined street which leads north along Darling Point towards another ferry wharf. Darling Point (originally Mrs Darling's Point), honours the wife of Governor Ralph Darling. The west side of the point is lined by the long Yarranabbe Park (using its Aboriginal name) and forms part of Keltie Bay - the western bay of the Double Bay area (the other bay being Diendagulla).

Keltie Bay

Keltie Bay

Yarranabbe Park

Sculpture in Sir David Martin Reserve

Yarranabbe Park lead me to Rushcutters Bay, which was once used by convicts to cut the 'rushes' used as roofing material in the early days of the Australian penal colony. Across the bay are a set of steps that climb up to Holdsworth Avenue to the district of Elizabeth Bay. Elizabeth Bay is home to Elizabeth Bay House, once one of the colonies finest houses, now, a living museum.

Rushcutters Bay

Rushcutters Bay marina

Steps leading to Holdsworth Avenue

Entering Potts Point

The route cuts across the bottom of the navy base at Potts Point to McElhone Stairs, a set of steps that afford a fine view of the city. The stairs commemorate John McElhone, a merchant and politician who had lived in Potts Point.

McElhone Stairs

Potts Point wharf

The Sydney Tower

Wooloomooloo Finger Wharf

Wooloomooloo Bay

Wooloomooloo Finger Wharf

From here, the walk really finally takes off. Remember I said it has an ace up its sleeve? The route leads along the edge of the Royal Botanic Garden - the oldest scientific institution in Australia and one of the most important historic botanical institutions in the world. Its stunning position in Sydney Harbour ensures it is one of the most visited places in Australia.

The waterside walk towards Mrs Macquaries Point

At the tip of the Botanic Gardens is Mrs Macquarie's Point which honours Governor Lachlan Macquarie's wife, Elizabeth, who had a chair carved out of rock in 1815. She often came to sit and watch ships enter and leave the harbour. Just around the corner is perhaps THE best view of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge.

Mrs Macquarie's Chair

The opera house occupies Bennelong Point, named after Bennelong, an aborigine whom Macquarie befriended and used as a guide and interpreter. During his tenure as Governor, Macquarie built a fort on the point as part of his harbour defence system. This was replaced by a tram depot, which was demolished in the 1950s to make way for the Sydney Opera House. A path follows the sweep of Farm Cove to reach the famed building.

The sun sets over Sydney

Sydney Harbour from Mrs Macquaries Point

The Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge

The Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge

Farm Cove

The Sydney Opera House

Sydney's CBD

The sun disappears behind the city's skyscrapers

Royal Botanical Gardens

The Sydney Opera House is one of the worlds most famous and distinctive buildings though its current design was close to never being realised. An international competition to design the opera house was announced in 1956, and when Jørn Utzon entered his proposal it was promptly relegated to the bin. When renowned American architect, Eero Saarinen was looking through the rejects he found Utzon’s entry and Utzon subsequently won the contract. The concept of the roof represented a ship’s billowed sails, a representation of Australia’s maritime history. At that point in time, no one knew exactly how challenging the construction of this roof would be.

The Sydney Opera House

The shells of the roof were the most complex feature of the building. At the time, hand-written mathematical equations were required to make the roof construction possible; it took 30,000 separate equations just to work out how much stress could be applied. The margin of error could be no more than 13mm when putting the segments together; anything more would have thrown the whole thing out of alignment as everything is curved and there is not one flat plane in the entire roof.

The immense curves of the roof

A close-up view of the roof

The view from the Northern Boardwalk at Bennelong Point

The roof

Eventually, it was discovered that the roof 'shells' could be derived from the planes of a sphere - a watershed moment in the design and construction of the building. Despite this achievement, Utzon became embroiled in the political controversies of the day, with his designs, schedules and cost estimates being questioned. It is said that the government at the time withheld money from Utzon. Utzon was stymied and subsequently resigned in 1966. Sadly Utzon and his family left Australia, never returning to see his concept completed.

The colour of the opera house is as famous as its design. There are more than 1 million 12x12cm ceramic tiles covering the shells, made in Sweden. The subtle chevron pattern is a glossy white-matte and cream colour that catches the light but doesn't glare and took three years to develop.

The delicate arrangement of tiles which cover the roof

The southern side of the opera house

The opera steps

You can get up close to the tiles as you make your way around the opera house towards the bustling Circular Quay - the final stop along this stretch of the walk. Circular Quay is the birthplace of modern Australia for it was here, in 1788, the first British fleet landed and established the penal colony which grew into modern-day Sydney. Why the name Circular Quay? It's simply a shortening of Semi-Circular Quay which was the working ports original name and shape.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Luna Park and the northern pylons of the Harbour Bridge

Hikers atop the Harbour Bridge

Circular Quay

Circular Quay

Circular Quay

Now, Circular Quay acts as a hub for Sydney thanks to the rail station and ferry wharves. Thousands of people visit on a daily basis, whether commuting into the city or arriving on one of the many cruise ships which dock during the summer months. It marks the end of this city-based leg of the Bondi to Manly hike and is the penultimate area of the south shore before it makes its way back towards Manly. Expect a return to more coast-hugging walking in the next section; Circular Quay to Taronga Zoo which includes crossing the iconic Sydney Harbour Bridge. Continue your journey here.