Saturday, 29 January 2022

Fortress Ridge & Dr Darks Cave - Blue Mountains National Park

Fortress Ridge & Dr Darks Cave 29-01-2022

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Route: Mount Hay Road, Fortress Rock Lookout, Dr Darks Cave, Fortress Ridge Trail, Fortress Hill, Fortress Rock Lookout, Fortress Canyon, Fortress Ridge Trail

Date: 29/01/2022
From: Mount Hay Road


Parking: Mount Hay Road
Start PointMount Hay Road
Finish Point: Mount Hay Road
Region: Blue Mountains

Route length: 11.2km
Time taken: 04:30
Average speed: 2.4km/h
Ascent: 545m
Descent: 543m

Points of Interest: Fortress Rock, Dr Darks Cave, Fortress Ridge, Fortress Canyon

Fortress Ridge is one of several dramatic ridges that reach out into the heart of the Grose Valley. Others include Lockley's Pylon or Butterbox Point. It can be accessed from the infamous Mount Hay Road and provides a vantage point to the impressive cliffs and canyons of the Blue Mountains' northern valley. Mount Hay Road is notorious - it is a long, unsealed road that delves deep into the heart of the wild Blue Mountains.

Occasionally Mount Hay Road gets re-graded and is passable in a 2WD car. Now, however, summer rains have created deep ruts, channels and potholes which need a high-clearance vehicle to negotiate. Fortunately, I have a friend who owns just such a car.

We set off from Sydney early, arriving in time to catch a cloud inversion at Wentworth Falls and grab some provisions from a local supermarket, before tackling Mount Hay Road to claim our spot at the Fortress Ridge trailhead. As with other hikes from Mount Hay Road, the route along Fortress Ridge is an out-and-back affair, with an added bonus of a side trip to Dr Darks Cave - more in a moment.
The track to Fortress Ridge
Fortress Ridge
We set off along the trail from the parking area, immediately climbing a low rise before the track levels out. Only 500m later is a fork in the trail - we headed left towards Fortress Rock Lookout. The lookout is less than 1km from the fork along a well-blazed trail, though the last few metres involve descending a slope as the path gets smaller and smaller. It ends at the rim of the cliffs at Fortress Rock.
Views of the nearby cliffs soon accompany you as you head towards Fortress Rock
The path leading to Fortress Rock
The Carne Wall
The view from Fortress Rock is outstanding, getting you up close to the imposing sandstone walls of Arethusa Canyon as well as a distant view around the head of the Grose Valley.
A close-up of the Carne Wall
Panorama from Fortress Rock
Arethusa Canyon
Govetts Creek flows into the Grose Valley
Arethusa Canyon and the Carne Wall
The Carne Wall
Looking along the length of Fortress Ridge
We returned from the lookout, climbing back to the top of the hill. A short distance back along the trail is where you will find another, smaller path branching off to the left. This is the path that will take you to Dr Darks Cave. A word of warning - the path down to the cave is quite steep in places and the route is one way - what goes down, must come back up again.

After a steep descent, the path reaches a creek and follows it downhill further. It's quite an adventurous trail and you may end up with wet feet. Before long, you will reach a short scramble up to a large sandstone ledge that has a fine view of the valley below Fortress Rock. A short distance further along the ledge is Dr Darks Cave.
Descending into the creek valley
The path follows the creek for a short distance
Following the creek downstream
A short scramble is necessary to reach a wide, covered ledge
The ledge leading to Dr Darks Cave
The view of the cliffs from the ledge
Local Katoomba Doctor Eric Dark reportedly found the cave in 1937 and later used it as a private family retreat. While not a true cave (it is a large overhang) it is dry and makes the perfect spot to hang out. The cave was set up with some sleeping and cooking equipment and remains much the same today, except for a log book being added inside an old backgammon case.
Entering Dr Darks Cave
The items left in the cave
Only a handful of the backgammon pieces remain
Pots and pans over a fire pit
An ancient tin of beans
Dr Darks Cave - the red item is an old sleeping bag
The waterfall at the back of the cave
After exploring the cave we retraced our steps along the creek and back uphill to the ridge. It's a tough little climb with a couple of short scrambles thrown in for good measure. After reaching the ridge top once again, we followed the main path back to the Fortress Ridge Trail.
Deep below the Blue Mountains cliffs
The small creek that leads to and from the cave
Heading north along the trail we soon emerged from the trees onto the open spine of the ridge. The path climbs a low rocky outcrop which has views across the nearby rolling hills and off to the more distant Mount Hay.
A view of The Pinnacles located along Lockley's Pylon ridge
The bush atop Fortress Ridge
Layered hills culminating with Mount Hay
Another 1.4km further along the trail the path climbs Fortress Hill as it approaches the edge of the cliffs. The track continues down into a saddle and up to the Fortress Ridge lookout, near a few bushes on the edge of the cliff. The views here are nothing short of spectacular.
The view along Fortress Ridge
The hike includes a view of Fortress Rock
The Fortress Ridge Trail
Fortress Hill
The Grose Valley
Approaching the end of Fortress Ridge
From the lookout, you may notice a path heading further along the cliffs to the east, which is inaccessible from the lookout itself. By backtracking along the path you should find a low cairn that marks where this extension begins. We decided to investigate.
The view from Fortress Ridge
Lockley Pylon
The path follows the base of the rocks that make up the Fortress Ridge lookout and presses on into the bush. I believe that this path is the exit track that canyoners use when they have finished exploring Fortress Canyon. It descends steeply to another slab of rock that has a fine view of the canyon and nearby Lockley Pylon.
Making our way below the lookout
Lockley Pylon
Fortress Canyon
Fortress Canyon
We looked at exploring further, at least as far as the Fortress Creek waterfall but the path became a little sketchy with a few very steep sections guarded by some fixed ropes. We decided that this was far enough for us and made our return to Fortress Ridge.
Looking back up towards the Fortress Ridge lookout
Fortress Ridge
A few thunderstorms were threatening by the time we managed to reach the lookout so we spared no time in making the return leg to the car park. It's approximately 4km from the lookout to the parking area so should take you around an hour or so.
Afternoon storms threaten
Fortress Hill
We beat the rain back to the car, which is fortunate as it can make Mount Hay Road extremely slippery or open up new ruts and potholes. Fortunately for us, we made it back to the tarmac in one piece.
Looking back towards Fortress Hill
The Fortress Ridge Trail

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