When we were planning to move to Australia, I was thrilled to find that the highest mountains were to be found in New South Wales, in the Snowy-Monaro region of the state - a not unreasonable five-hour drive from Sydney. The region is home to the Australian Alps which are the highest mountain range in Australia, straddling the New South Wales and Victoria border. Here you will find Australia's only peaks which exceed 2,000m in elevation and form the backbone of the Great Dividing Range, an extensive series of hills and mountains that run for 3,000km from northern Queensland to northern Victoria.
On our previous hike to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko, we passed the imposing peak of Mount Sentinel and, upon finding it is home to some of the best views in the area, I conjured up a circuit that included said peak in addition to Mount Twynam, mainland Australia's third-highest mountain.
The track starts from Charlotte Pass, a snow resort at 1,760m where the public road ends at a trailhead. It is named after Charlotte Adams who was the first European woman to climb Mount Kosciuszko in 1881. Although I arrived early in the morning, I ended up parking part-way along the road, away from the main trailhead.
Two trails leave Charlotte Pass, bound for Mount Kosciuszko - the Summit Track and the Main Range Track, a stunning 22km circuit around the high Australian mountains. The Main Range Track actually descends first before any climbing begins but has a superb view over the principal mountains of the Main Range.  |
| The turning circle at Charlotte Pass |
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| An information board notes the various hikes from Charlotte Pass |
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| The Main Range |
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| Setting off from Charlotte Pass |
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| The Main Range track crossing Snowy River |
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| There is a wonderful view of the high mountains as you descend to Snowy River |
The lowest point of the Main Range Track is the crossing of Snowy River where a series of stepping stones allow you to cross the river without getting wet feet. The Snowy River is one of Australia's major rivers. While its course and surroundings remain largely unchanged, its flow has been drastically reduced after the construction of four large dams which form the backbone of the Snowy Mountains Hydro Scheme, the largest engineering project undertaken in Australia. It took 25 years to construct, being officially opened in 1974.
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| Snowy River |
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| Mount Clarke behind Snowy River |
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| The Main Range Track |
From the river, the Main Range Track begins to climb around the base of a prominent spur. There are extensive views over the Clarke Cirque and the swampy origins of Snowy River, though Mount Kosciuszko itself remains hidden for now. The gradient of the track is fairly shallow until it reaches Carruthers Creek where it steepens for a short distance. By now, the late spring snow had all but melted except in the most sheltered of hollows.
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| Mount Stillwell and Kangaroo Ridge |
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| Mount Clarke and Mount Northcote |
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| The vast cirques below Mount Clarke |
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| Hedley Tarn |
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| Alpine meadows |
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| Carruthers Creek |
At the top of the steeper climb from Carruthers Creek, the track reaches a junction above the Blue Lake, the best example of a cirque lake in Australia, surrounded by the craggy cliffs of Mount Twynam. While unique in Australia, it is very reminiscent of the many lakes and tarns of the Lake District, Snowdonia and Scotland.
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| Mount Twynam, Little Twynam and Blue Lake |
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| Mount Twynam |
From the lake, the Main Range Track climbs further, cutting across the slopes of Mount Twynam until it reaches a col. There are spectacular view across the steeper northern side of the Main Range and over a vast swath of New South Wales. Centred in the view is the triangular Mount Sentinel - one of the objectives of this hike.
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| The Mount Sentinel ridge |
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| A path emerges at the top of the ridge |
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| Windover Knoll and Alice Rawson Peak |
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| Strzelecki Creek |
The ridge descends steeply, narrowing as it does so before it reaches an outcrop of rock which requires some deft hand and footwork to work your way around (take care as a fall would be quite serious). Once around the obstacle, it's a short, steep climb to the summit rocks.
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| Mount Sentinel's superb location among the high mountains |
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| Mount Sentinel |
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| Windover Knoll and Alice Rawson Peak |
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| Hikers on the Main Range Track |
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| Waterfalls on the slopes of Tenison Woods Knoll |
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| A closeup of the falls |
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| The beginning of the short scramble on the ridge |
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| Mount Sentinel |
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| The summit of Mount Sentinel |
The sharp, pointed mountain nestles among the larger peaks of the Main Range and is a world away from the rolling alpine meadows on the south side of the watershed. The steep flanks fall away some 400m into the deeply incised valleys below and views of the so-called Western Fall are excellent. Carruthers Peak looks far more dramatic than any of the views from the Main Range Track.
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| Carruthers Peak and Alice Rawson Peak |
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| Watson Crags |
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| Looking back up the ridge from Mount Sentinel |
Having paused for a bite to eat, I returned back up the ridge, making the 150m climb back up to the beginning of the spur. The path crosses a small stream which I used to refill my water bottle before carrying on. Though less steep, the route is pathless again as I made my way northeast to Tenison Woods Knoll, one of the lesser 2000m peaks in Australia (seemingly it may also be called Mount Dubious, which I like).
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| The ridge leading back up to the Main Range track |
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| Another view of the scramble on the ridge - I found it easier in this direction |
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| The path climbing the ridge |
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| Layers of hills |
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| Tenison Woods Knoll |
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| The Main Range Track and a distant Rams Head Range |
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| Climbing Tenison Woods Knoll |
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| Tenison Woods Knoll |
From the knoll, I opted against another out-and-back to Watsons Crags as there was a fair bit of hiking to do to get to Mount Twynam and then back to Charlotte Pass. Instead, I made my way up to the ridge of the Main Range which forms the backbone of the Great Dividing Range. There is a track here which is largely level as it makes its way towards Mount Twynam.
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| The seemingly unnamed track to Mount Twynam |
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| Mount Twynam |
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| Mount Kosciuszko finally makes an appearance |
At 2195m, Mount Twynam is Australia's third highest peak and, despite the proximity of the track, it is rarely visited, probably due to the fact Mount Kosciuszko stands relatively close by. It is topped by a rather sad looking metal structure, perhaps an old survey apparatus, similar to the one on Mount Sentinel.
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| Mount Twynam |
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| The southwest view from Mount Twynam |
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| Mount Twynam summit |
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| The Main Range |
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| Etheridge Ridge and Rams Head |
Standing next to Mount Twynam is Little Twynam which forms part of the Crummer Spur, descending to the valley of Snowy River. To reach it requires some more off-path hiking across the top of Twynam Cirque and a short climb to its summit. Despite its name, Little Twynam still stands a lofty 2131m above sea level.
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| Little Twynam |
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| Little Twynam |
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| Summer snow in the rocks of Mount Twynam |
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| The summit of Little Twynam |
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| Views from Little Twynam |
My plan from here was to descend to the outlet of the Blue Lake and pick up the Blue Lake and Main Range Tracks back to Charlotte Pass. The distance is short but involves a steep, pathless descent through the rocks and grasses on the western slopes of Little Twynam, above the glacial Blue Lake while avoiding straying onto any steep rocky ground. The route down is entirely manageable and shouldn't pose too many problems. Before long, I emerged at the shores of the Blue Lake.
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| Mount Twynam |
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| Blue Lake |
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| Etheridge Ridge and Mount Kosciuszko |
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| Blue Lake Creek |
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| Blue Lake |
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| Blue Lake |
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| Blue Lake |
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| Blue Lake Creek |
Of all Snowy Mountains areas, Blue Lake perhaps bears the strongest similarities to the Lake District or Snowdonia. In fact, it is one of only four cirque lakes in mainland Australia (the others are all in close proximity) and is home to the best-developed glacial features in the alpine area of New South Wales.
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| Blue Lake |
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| Mount Twynam |
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| Blue Lake from the Blue Lake Walk track |
I crossed the stream at the outlet of the lake where the Blue Lake Walk track terminates. The path makes a gradual climb back up to the lookout and the Main Range Track, just below Carruthers Cirque, passing the lookout on the way.
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| The noticeboard at the Blue Lake Lookout |
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| Mount Twynam and Little Twynam over Blue Lake |
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| Glacial rocks around Blue Lake |
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| Alpine meadows |
Now begins a long and slightly tedious descent back to Snowy River along the Main Range Track, which I followed, well aware of the fact there is one final, steep climb to contend with after crossing Snowy River. If you're thinking about doing the Main Range Track, I'd recommend it anticlockwise for this reason.
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| Clarke Cirque and Mount Clarke |
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| Descending the Main Range track to Snowy River |
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| Approaching Snowy River - the final climb of the day looms in the background |
After tiptoeing across the river, the final climb awaits. It's pretty relentless, especially at the end of a long day in the mountains.
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| Snowy River |
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| Taking a break on the climb back to Charlotte Pass |
The car park which had thinned out considerably by the time I made it to the top of the climb and I managed to get back to the campsite in time to find my tent taken over by an army of ants (all on the outside luckily). Turns out I'd pitched across the ant motorway so I decided to move. Fortunately, this meant I had front row seats for some kangaroo boxing later in the evening.
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| The weigh-in |
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| Round one |
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| Round two |
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| Round three - nice right jab |
A great TR, Dave. Love the boxing 'roos - we don't see many of those on UK campsites.
ReplyDeleteAn enjoyable read, great scenery. For some reason I think of the Wicklow Mountains when I see some of the photos.
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