Sunday, 27 October 2024

Furber Steps, Federal Pass, Giant Stairway & the Three Sisters - Blue Mountains National Park

Furber Steps, Federal Pass & The Three Sisters 27-10-2024

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Route: Scenic World, Cliff Drive, Prince Henry Cliff Walk, Vaniman's Lookout, Juliets Balcony, Underfalls Walk, Furber Steps, Federal Pass, Dardnelles Pass, Giant Stairway, Oreades Lookout, Three Sisters Track, Spooners Lookout, Echo Point, Prince Henry Cliff Walk, Katoomba Cascades, Reid's Plateau, Scenic World

Date: 27/10/2024
From: Scenic World


Parking: Scenic World
Start Point: Cliff Drive
Finish Point: Reid's Plateau
Region: Blue Mountains National Park

Route length: 7.6 km
Time taken: 01:45
Average speed: 4.3 km/h
Ascent: 380m
Descent: 381m

Points of Interest: Katoomba Falls, Furber Steps, Federal Pass, Giant Stairway, Three Sisters

No trip to the Blue Mountains is complete until you've tackled one of the steep stairways linking the clifftops to the walking tracks in the valley below. There are four sets, from the Golden Stairs in the west to the Grand Stairway at Wentworth Falls in the east. They all date to around the Victorian era, when tourism in the Blue Mountains really kicked off. Today, I'd be tackling the middle two: the Furber Steps and the Giant Stairway.

After driving to Katoomba I parked (for free) at Scenic World, a curious outdoors theme park that is home to a cable car (the Scenic Skyway) and the world's steepest passenger railway — the 52-degree Scenic Railway (train enthusiasts may get excitable determining whether it is, in fact, a true railway or not). The first task of this hike is to get into the National Park from Scenic World.

As part of the Grand Clifftop Walk, a new concrete path linking Cliff Drive to existing trails in the national park has been constructed. It replaces a path that used to pass through Scenic World, but it appears that it has been closed. After departing from the car park, I proceeded towards Cliff Drive, following it eastwards until hitting the new concrete path.
Entering the national park from Cliff Drive
Steps at Vaniman's Lookout
The path stops at Vaniman's Lookout, which has an iconic view of the Three Sisters and Katoomba Falls, the westernmost of the tall waterfalls that drop from the plateau to the valley. The path descends further with another lookout, Juliet's Balcony, having an equally good view of the falls, though there is a very short climb to the vantage point.
Vaniman's Lookout
The Three Sisters
The view from Vaniman's Lookout
The top of Katoomba Falls
Juliets Balcony
Katoomba Falls
The middle tier of the waterfall
A switchback in the path leads further downhill to the Underfalls Walk track, a short out-and-back hike to the base of the first of Katoomba Falls' twin cascades, where the Kedumba River is thrown over the 300m cliffs. The short diversion is worth the modest amount of effort and time, as it takes you perilously close to the lip of the waterfall. You'll often find the enigmatic cockatoos enjoying the cool waters of the river.
There are plenty of signs to direct you to the Furber Steps
Underfalls Walk
Underfalls Walk
Katoomba Falls
The lip of the lower falls
Katoomba Falls
Sulphur-crested cockatoo
Departure
The Furber Steps begin at a junction with the Underfalls Walk. They begin with a steady descent to Lynes Point, which has the best view of Katoomba Falls, before descending very steeply into the valley below, hugging the cliffs and passing beneath vast overhangs of sandstone. They are sensational but quite short-lived.
The are several information boards along the way
An old wooden bench beneath an overhang
Katoomba Falls from Lynes Point
The top of the Furber Steps
Furber Steps
Furber Steps
Back into the rainforest
Route of the Furber Steps
Approaching Federal Pass
The Furber Steps were constructed in 1908, to replace the bush pole steps of the original Federal Pass. The name 'bush poles' sounds precarious on its own, let alone down the side of a sandstone cliff. Thomas Furber, a Lands Department surveyor with an interest in conservation, was mainly responsible for obtaining a government grant of £140 for the work. The photo below was taken on the completion of the project. While the vegetation has grown back, the amazing feat of construction can be clearly seen.
1908 photo of the Furber Steps
Nowadays, the Furber Steps join Federal Pass partway between the Scenic Station and Katoomba Falls View. If a climb out of the valley fills you with dread, I'd highly recommend using Furber Steps to descend and Scenic Railway to travel back up again (fees apply).
Signage at the bottom of the Furber Steps
The Federal Pass is one of the longer tracks in the Blue Mountains, joining the town of Leura in the east to Ruined Castle in the west via the base of the cliffs. It was originally built by the Katoomba community, from Leura Forest to Katoomba Falls, before being extended along an old horse-drawn coal tramway line. From the bottom of Furber Steps, I'd be hiking the original section, between Katoomba Falls and Leura Forest.
Federal Pass
A close-up of one of the large Turpentine trees in the rainforest
Federal Pass is a very pleasant route, generally flat and out of the heat of the sun. It crosses the Kedumba River and then extends through the bush to the tip of the Three Sisters ridge where it meets Dardanelles Pass, a path built to link the Giant Stairway to the Federal Pass. Federal Pass actually dips down into the rainforest from here, while Dardanelles Pass cuts a level course, both meeting nearly 2 km later. 
Federal Pass
Federal Pass
Federal Pass
Mount Solitary
The 800 steps of the Giant Stairway are narrow and steep, protected from an imposing drop by a sturdy guardrail. The stairway was conceived in 1914 and construction began in 1916 but was deemed too expensive after only a quarter had been built. It was not until 1932 that work was re-commenced after lobbying by a local photographer. The Giant Stairway was opened by the Premier, the Hon. B.S.B. Stevens, at the same time as the platform at Echo Point.
The bottom of the Giant Stairway
The first serious section of the Giant Stairway
Giant Stairway
Giant Stairway
Giant Stairway
Close to the top of the stairs is Honeymoon Bridge, a short bridge across a chasm that links the tallest of the Three Sisters to the main ridge (access onto the bridge is currently restricted). Further climbing on the towers is prohibited due to their cultural significance with the Aboriginal traditional owners, the Gundungurra Nation.
Giant Stairway
Honeymoon Bridge
Honeymoon Bridge
The cliffs behind the Three Sisters
The top of the Giant Stairway has received some love and attention recently
The Giant Stairway eventually emerges at Lady Game / Oreades Lookout, directly behind Meehni, the tallest of the Three Sisters. 
The top of the Giant Stairway
The commonly told legend of the Three Sisters is that three sisters, Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo, lived in the Jamison Valley as members of the Katoomba tribe. They fell in love with three men from the neighbouring Nepean tribe, but the marriage was forbidden by tribal law. The brothers were not happy to accept this law and so decided to capture the three sisters. A major tribal battle ensued, and the sisters were turned to stone by an elder to protect them, but he was killed in the fighting and no one else could turn them back.
Meehni — the tallest of the Three Sisters (922m)
Malaita Point
From the lookout, the track continues a short distance to Echo Point and the Queen Elizabeth Lookout — arguably the most popular of all the lookouts in the Blue Mountains. 
Prince Henry Cliff Walk
Spooners Lookout — rarely visited
Echo Point
Echo Point
Echo Point is a busy place. Most (if not all) of the tours from Sydney coincide at this location and disgorge hundreds of daily passengers. The lookout has been expanded and upgraded to create more room for visitors. The view of the Three Sisters from the lookout is the defining image of the Blue Mountains — one you'll no doubt find with a quick Google search.
The Three Sisters and Mount Solitary
The Three Sisters (Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo)
The Three Sisters
Queen Elizabeth Lookout
Heading west away from Echo Point, the Prince Henry Cliff Walk descends several flights of steps until it reaches the impressive Lady Darley's Lookout. A set of narrow metal steps descend an outcrop of rock with an imposing view of the valley. A handful of other lookouts are passed before reaching the Scenic Skyway East Station, where the Scenic World cable car terminates.
Prince Henry Cliff Walk
It's currently cicada season - the noise can be deafening
Views over the Kedumba River
Cliff View Lookout
The Scenic Skyway over Katoomba Falls
Scenic Skyway car
Ruined Castle
The Cliff Walk does a loop under the Katoomba Cascades, a picturesque set of waterfalls on the Kedumba River which sits just below a road and park. The river can be crossed by stepping stones or a small footbridge (presumably for times when the flow is high). A last recommended port of call is Reid's Plateau, a short circuit of a sandstone outcrop with numerous viewpoints of the valley, including Orphan Rock. From here, it's a short hike back to the car park at Scenic World.
Katoomba Cascades
Prince Henry Cliff Walk
Duke and Duchess of York Lookout
Scenic Skyway
Reid's Plateau
Katoomba Falls
The middle tier catching the afternoon sun
Orphan Rock
Sulphur-crested cockatoo
Solitary Lookout
Katoomba Falls

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