Saturday 4 November 2023

The Red Track (Bungonia Gorge) - Bungonia National Park

Bungonia Gorge - The Red Track 04-11-2023

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Route: David Reid Car Park, Red Track, Bretons Creek, Bungonia Creek, Bungonia Gorge, Red Track, Green Track, David Reid Car Park

Date: 04/11/2023
From: David Reid Car Park

Parking: David Reid Car Park
Start Point David Reid Car Park
Finish Point David Reid Car Park
Region: Bungonia National Park

Route length: 5.3km
Time taken: 03:07
Average speed: 1.7km/h
Ascent: 436m
Descent: 444m 

Points of Interest: Bungonia Gorge

I'll not often jump straight onto Blogger after a hike to get a write-up ready, but this is no ordinary hike, and it deserves a swift entry into the All the Gear archive. When you have a 5km hike taking over 3 hours, there must be something interesting to talk about. That interesting thing is the Bungonia Gorge Red Track - be prepared for one of the best hikes in the state.

This adventure is centred within Bungonia National Park, a small area (only fifteen square kilometres) tagged onto the side of the much larger Morton National Park. Bungonia protects part of the Shoalhaven River and the unique geology of the area and it is that unique geology that is responsible for the dramatic Bungonia Gorge, the deepest gorge in Australia.
Bungonia Gorge from Adams Lookout
The Bungonia National Park Red Track, which goes in and out of Bungonia Gorge, is one of the most epic hikes in the state. Every description of the hike involves a brief disclaimer and having completed this hike, my advice is to be mindful of the following.
  • The Red Track has a measured distance of 5km however, it will take much longer than a couple of hours so give yourself plenty of time. It took us just over three hours to complete the circuit, with a few pauses to admire the scenery and plenty of route-finding.
  • The famous boulders are a physical and mental challenge, but a lot of fun if you approach them with the right attitude. They require a decent amount of physicality to clamber over, slide off, slither under or squeeze through but a calm, considered approach will always help you find a way through. Get high up often to survey the way ahead. There is no correct way through, just the safest one for you and your group.
  • Be vigilant, especially once you get through the boulders. It's tempting to switch off but the 600m between the large boulders and the Red Track exit is very uneven and slippery and you want to avoid turning an ankle. Slow and steady wins this race.
  • The weather will make a substantial difference to the route. Hot weather will make the long ascent arduous while wet weather will make the boulders and tracks very slippery. We had an overcast, cool day which, despite the flatness of the light for photos, was ideal for tackling the Red Track.
The Red Track begins from the David Reid car park, named after a notable landowner from the earlier days of Australian colonisation. There are National Park warning signs everywhere you look, and I agree with everything they say - the Red Track should not be underestimated but if you are well-prepared, you should have an enjoyable experience.
There are several warning signs around the car park
The initial section of the Red Track is along a wide trail that forms part of the Green Track, a more family-friendly 8km loop around the caves and lookouts above the gorges of the National Park. After a short climb, the Green and Red Track diverge, with the Red Track bearing to the right. Keep an eye out for the wooden posts marked by a red or green hike - if you find your post only has a green hiker, you've missed the Red Track.
The Red Track starts life as a wide path
The upper gorge of Bungonia Creek
A further warning sign and wooden post marks the beginning of the Red Track's descent alongside Bretons Creek. The initial section is quite steep with the track making a couple of wide zigzags before taking a more direct route towards the canyon. The track varies between quite steep and very steep with the loose shale underfoot making things slippery. 
The Red Track descending towards the canyon
Looking back up the hill
Into one of the wooded sections, just as a brief shower passed over
Getting deeper....
There is a marked change in scenery as the dry eucalypt woodland gives way to more temperate, lusher vegetation which provides shade for the trail. Within this wooded area are the steepest sections of the descent with a couple of awkward little scrambles over slippery rocks thrown in for good measure, however, you'll be closing on the gorge by this point, and you'll get some nice views.
The entrance to Bungonia Gorge
There are some openings through the tree canopy
There are some very steep sections towards the end of the descent
Before long, we reached the main floor of the gorge at Bungonia Creek, having descended 400m in just over 1km - a gradient of around 30%. The Red Track continues to the right, entering the dramatic slot canyon of Bungonia Gorge.
Bungonia Creek
Bungonia Creek
By pushing through a thick band of limestone, part of the area's unique geology, Bungonia Creek has formed the 275m high vertical walls and 25m wide gorge. Its depth and steep sides make it one of the best examples of a limestone gorge in Australia.
Bungonia Gorge
As the preceding months had been very dry there was no water in the creek, and we were able to follow the bed of the watercourse through the narrow slot. If the creek water levels are high, then you'll have to hang to the right and squeeze through some rocky tunnels before you reach the infamous boulders.
Inspecting the towering walls of the gorge
A route along the right-hand side of the creek is possible
Bungonia Gorge
If it's dry, the hike along the slot canyon is easy
Bungonia Gorge
You'll see the boulders looming up ahead but it's not until you reach them that their size and scale become apparent. Most are modest car-sized, however, some are real monsters as big as a house. It's pick your own adventure from this point.
The beginning of the boulders
You'll have to work your way over, around or underneath the stacks of gigantic boulders, avoiding pools of water and awkward drops. Most problems we encountered could be tackled with a bit of thought, some additional route finding or a bit of teamwork but be prepared for this section to take time and quite a bit of effort. We trended towards the left of the gorge, but I have seen others work their way down the right-hand side. There really is no right or wrong way but plenty of 'wow' moments as you carve a route through the boulders.
The boulder field 
Moving through the boulders
Some areas are easier to negotiate than others
Cliffs tower over the boulders at all times
Bungonia Gorge
There are some beautiful areas hidden within the boulders
Ponds also present an obstacle
Heading through a gap between the boulders
Bungonia Gorge
Bungonia Creek
It took us just over an hour to inch our way through the natural obstacle course, emerging into the valley at the base of the slot canyon. The valley opens up considerably from this point but there is still no formed path but the occasional red marker will keep you on the right track. Down at creek level, the green pools look picturesque, reflecting the gorge and surrounding trees, but up close they're rather slimy and still - not an ideal spot for a swim.
At the base of the boulders
A male superb lyrebird
Bungonia Creek after leaving the gorge
Bungonia Creek
Bungonia Creek with the gorge beyond
You'll pass some yellow signs within the canyon, warning against falling rocks caused by blasting from a nearby quarry. Though blasting near the canyon is uncommon, it typically occurs during weekday afternoons so avoid the area if possible after 3pm. 
Bungonia Creek
The way out of the gorge can be found at the third quarry warning signs, on the right-hand side of the gorge. There are some less-than-obvious red signs dotted around and the route up is not immediately clear, however, soon after you scramble past the sign you'll find the path. 
The ascent begins at this sign - it is more obvious than it appears once you get past the sign
Looking back along Bungonia Creek
The climb out of the gorge is unrelentingly steep, ascending some 400m from the creek to the rim of the canyon where it meets the White Track from Mount Syre. There are no alternative routes that avoid the steep climb.
The Red Track
The Red Track
The Red Track is marked by several small metal tags
The climb out of the valley has a tremendous view of the gorge
Nothing lasts forever and eventually, the Red Track reaches the top of the climb, joining the White Track. You can make an optional side trip to Mount Ayre lookout where there are views over the Shoalhaven River but we were content with the short hike back to the David Reid car park.
The aftermath of an adventurous day out
If you are considering tackling the Red Track, you'll be guaranteed an unforgettable day out. If you’re up for the challenge, then it's likely it will become one of your favourite half-day hikes.

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