Curra Moors, Curracurrong Falls & Eagle Rock - Royal National Park

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Route: Sir Bertram Stevens Drive, Curra Moors Track, Coast Track, Curracurrong Creek, Eagle Rock, Curra Moors Fire Trail, Curra Brook, Sir Bertram Stevens Drive

Date: 02/07/2022

From: Sir Bertram Stevens Drive

Parking: Curra Moors Trailhead

Start Point: Curra Moors

Finish Point: Curra Moors

Region: Royal National Park

Route length: 11.3km

Average speed: 5.0km/h

Ascent: 248m
Descent: 252m

Points of Interest: Curra Moor, Curracurrong Waterfall, Eagle Rock

I'm not sure what compelled me to leave the house for a hike on this day, one that promised nothing but constant, heavy rain. But, some days just need a hike to blow out the cobwebs. There did seem to be a brief lull in the weather forecast, so I set off early to try and catch it.

Given the dreadful weather forecast, I decided to seek out the one thing that rainfall generally improves - waterfalls and a rare one at that. Curracurrong Falls are the only falls in the Sydney area that empties directly into the sea and are one of only three in Australia. Getting to it could prove challenging, however.

I parked up at the trailhead for the Curra Moors Track. Unsurprisingly, I was the only arrival. The rain was already hammering down by the time arrived, so I kitted myself out in the full, head-to-toe waterproofs - a rarity in Australia - sat in the boot of the car. With all the hatches battened down, I ventured out onto the track.

Starting off along the Curra Moors Track

The trail immediately plunges into the Australian bush as the track slowly descends across Curra Moors towards the coast. Being under the cover of the trees did provide some shelter from the worst of the rain, however, the track resembled more of a river than a hiking trail. 

Flooding along the track

Curra Moors Track

In some places, the track is deeply cut by small streams which required some nimble footwork to negotiate. I ventured through the woods before reaching the Curra Moors Fire Trail where the path emerges into more open heath which is dominated by smaller plants and banksia trees. It is also more open to the elements and was the first point I wondered if I had made a grave mistake heading out on such a foul day.

Curra Moors Track

Grass trees on Curra Moor

I followed the trail to the coast and the Coast Track, one of the premier routes in the Sydney area. So popular is the route that much of it comprises of metal walkways to protect the plants and these tracks were a godsend on a day like today.

More flooding to negotiate

The grated Coast Track

The Coast Track and a distant 

The track follows the top of the cliffs towards the waterfalls. A few of the minor creeks flow over the cliffs were being blown backwards by the wind onto the path. Shortly after, I reached the second point where I wondered if being out was a wise move, trying to cross the swollen Curra Brook. It may not look too tricky in the photos, but the water was flowing deep and fast and the crossing needed a  committing leap. I eventually made it across largely unscathed.

Curra Brook being blown back onto the track

Crossing Curra Brook

Curra Brook

Curra Brook

Curra Brook

I was rewarded by Curracurrong Falls in full spate, pouring out into the sea. The view of the waterfall is backed by Eagle Rock, a dramatic and precarious overhanging rock outcrop which bears a striking resemblance to an eagle's head. The best and most dramatic view of the waterfall and Eagle Rock together is from beneath an overhanging rock, just below the main path where I took some shelter from the rain.

Curracurrong Falls

Eagle Rock

Eagle Rock

Curracurrong Creek

The best view of the waterfall is from this overhang

Curracurrong Falls

Curracurrong Falls

After a short while, the rain began to ease as I had hoped, but I had already left Eagle Rock by this point. Returning back to the parking area first involves a hike along the Curra Moors Fire Trail that gradually ascends the moorland, away from the cliffs.

Curra Moors Fire Trail

Before long, I had reached the ford at Curra Brook, which was entirely flooded. Unlike my previous creek crossing, there was no obvious dry way across but I was loathed to retrace my steps all the way back along the cliffs. Instead, I simply removed my boots and waded across.

Crossing Curra Brook

Curra Moors Fire Trail

The fire trail crosses Curra Brook a second time at another flooded ford. This one, however, did offer a dry alternative but also required a committing jump.

Curra Brook once again

Curra Brook - you can see where I made my way across

Curra Moors Fire Trail

After the creek crossing, it's a straightforward route along the fire trail to the road. By the time I reached it, it was lashing down again and the short 1km along the roadside was unpleasant, to say the least. I do wonder what the drivers passing cars were thinking, seeing me trudging through the rain.

Before long I had made it back to the car and hopped into the boot. Having anticipated a wet hike I had a full change of clothes handy but my waterproof jacket had kept the worst of the weather at bay. Once dry and changed, all that we left was the short drive back through the national park and on to Sydney. For those who are interested, the local rainfall gauge recorded over 200mm of rainfall, which is wet by anyone's standards.