Searching for the perfect hike in the Heathcote National Park? The Bullawarring Track offers a quiet, rugged alternative to Royal National Park that doesn't sacrifice scenery. This station-to-station route along Heathcote Creek takes you through ancient bushland, past historic relics like the Lake Toolooma boiler, and reveals hidden gems like the stunning Kingfisher Pool. Whether you are looking for a challenging moorland hike or a peaceful escape into nature, this guide covers everything you need to know to conquer one of Sydney’s most underrated wilderness trails.
The Bullawarring Track
📍 HEATHCOTE NATIONAL PARK
Distance12.4 km
Duration03:47 hrs
Elev Gain+315 m
Elev Lost-346 m
Date
04 January 2021
Starting Point
Waterfall Station
Difficulty
Moderate
Pace / Gear
3.2 km/h — Light day pack
Highlights
Lake Toolooma, Kingfisher Pool, Mirang Pool
🗺️ Interactive Route MapPinch or use wheel to zoom
Heathcote National Park sits adjacent to the Royal National Park, separated from its more famous neighbour by the M1 Princes Highway. The primary drawback of the Royal National Park is its popularity, as Sydneysiders flock there in droves on any given day. The solution for those looking to avoid the crowds? Head to Heathcote, right next door. While it may lack the expansive coastal splendour of the Royal, Heathcote is home to an abundance of fascinating, rugged scenery, all centred around the pristine flow of Heathcote Creek.
The Bullawarring Track is undoubtedly one of the highlights of the national park. Best of all, you can use the train to complete it, as the route follows Heathcote Creek and links the stations at Waterfall and Heathcote. For no particular reason, I decided to tackle this hike from south to north.
I departed the train at Waterfall Station and crossed the Princes Highway via Koorban Street before following a path down to Bundarra Street. While the Bullawarring Track technically begins north of the station, I decided to head south to incorporate the Camp Coutts Track via Lake Toolooma, adding an extra kilometer or two to the hike. The Camp Coutts Track doesn't have an obvious starting point—you actually have to hop over a crash barrier just to find it.
Follow the signs for Camp Coutts
Once on the track, it descends into the bush and quickly becomes apparent that it isn't hiked very often. I’ve come to learn that the less used a trail is, the more spider webs you will inevitably walk through. That said, there is a clear, well-defined path on the ground that makes its way steadily toward Camp Road.
Camp Coutts Track, close to Waterfall station
Camp Coutts Track, close to Waterfall station
Sydney Red Gum bark
Descending the Camp Coutts Track
Camp Road
I was only on the cracked tarmac of Camp Road for a short while before the Lake Toolooma Trail branched off to the north. There was, however, just enough time to spot a few large goannas lumbering nearby. These impressive reptiles are members of the monitor lizard family and play a vital role in the local ecosystem as both predators and scavengers. Their resilience is legendary, and it is easy to see why they are a significant totem animal in Aboriginal culture, frequently appearing in Dreamtime stories and ancient rock art found throughout the Sydney basin.
Camp Road
A Goanna lizard
A Goanna lizard hangs on to a Scribbly Gum tree
Lake Toolooma Fire Trail
The track past Lake Toolooma is a wide fire trail that hugs the lake's eastern shore. As I made my way along, views of the water opened up, revealing a curious, rusted boiler—a relic from the early 1900s when the lake was dammed to supply the nearby Waterfall station. In those days, water was pumped from the lake to a holding reservoir, which then gravity-fed the steam locomotive tanks in the Waterfall yard. It is a fascinating reminder of the era when steam power relied entirely on local infrastructure, transforming these quiet bushland pockets into essential hubs for the Great Southern Railway.
The trail sits below an escarpment
Lake Toolooma
Lake Toolooma, the dam and the old boiler
After passing the lake, the fire trail eventually meets the Bullawarring Track, marked by an eponymous NSW National Parks sign. The path immediately narrows, winding through the beautiful Heathcote bush. I was instantly greeted by the deafening, shrill chirping of cicadas, a sound so intense it seemed to drown out nearly everything else.
It is a classic soundtrack to the Australian summer; these insects are actually one of the loudest in the world, with some species capable of producing songs reaching 120 decibels. They spend the vast majority of their lives—up to several years—underground as nymphs, only emerging for a few short weeks to mate, which explains why the bush suddenly erupts into such a cacophony.
Lake Toolooma Fire Trail at Waterfall Gully
Australian Water Dragon
The Bullawarring Track
The track crosses Heathcote Creek and then the smaller Westmacott Rill before finally reaching the beautiful Kingfisher Pool. This spot is a highlight of the park, fed by the creek as it tumbles through a series of oddly eroded rocks, eventually creating a striking, natural stone bridge above the deep, cool water. It is a perfect place to pause and appreciate the power of erosion, but if you want to linger longer, you can even camp at the designated Kingfisher Pool camping area nearby—a fantastic way to experience the serenity of the bush once the day-trippers have headed home.
Heathcote Creek above Kingfisher Pool
Heathcote Creek leading to Kingfisher Pool
The natural bridge created by Heathcote Creek
Kingfisher Pool
A short distance beyond Kingfisher Pool, a brief diversion from the path leads to another, smaller waterfall—a hidden gem that is well worth the few extra steps. After this, the Bullawarring Track follows the winding course of Heathcote Creek for a few hundred metres before beginning a steady climb up the flank of Mount Mannell. The trail soon crosses the dried-up creek bed at Python Gully; while it may look parched today, it is a reminder of the rapid water level fluctuations that can occur in these sandstone landscapes after heavy rain. Now perched some 100 metres above the creek, the trail offers occasional openings in the canopy, rewarding the climb with sweeping, elevated views across the valley below.
Waterfalls beyond Kingfisher Pool
Heathcote Creek valley deep within the bush
Climbing the slopes of Mount Mannell
Escarpment on Mount Mannell
The Bullawarring Track negotiates some interesting rocky features
Python Gully
The Bullawarring Track
Views of Mount Mooray from Mount Mannell
The track continues, leading me past what I believe to be a shield tree. Often referred to as "scarred trees", these living artefacts bear witness to the sophisticated land management of Aboriginal Australians, who carefully removed patches of bark to create essential items such as canoes, shelters, weapons, and tools. Usually found among mature specimens—particularly box gum and red gum trees near water sources or sacred sites—they serve as a poignant, protected link to the past. Encountering one in the stillness of the bush feels like stumbling upon a quiet, enduring dialogue between the landscape and its traditional custodians.
A shield tree, perhaps
The Bullawarring Track continues until it meets the junction with the Goanna Track, where it begins its final descent back toward the banks of Heathcote Creek at Battery Causeway. This section of the path follows a decrepit, weathered road that once served as vital access to the nearby Woronora Dam. Completed in the early 1940s, this dam remains a crucial piece of infrastructure, supplementing the water supply for southern Sydney and standing as a testament to the massive engineering projects undertaken during that era to support the city's growing population.
Battery Causeway
Heathcote Creek
Heathcote Creek
Battery Causeway
Crossing the causeway can be a bit of a gamble; if the creek is in full flow, the water often rushes over the top of the road, demanding a steady foot and careful timing. Once safely across, the trail joins the Pipeline Trail. It is essentially a service road for the dam, dominated by an immense, imposing pipe that runs alongside the path. While perhaps not conventionally beautiful, there is something undeniably striking about this piece of heavy infrastructure snaking through the wild bushland.
Further along, the pipeline passes Mirang Pool—a deep, tranquil bend in Heathcote Creek that hides a rudimentary campground. There are no facilities here, so you must arrive completely self-sufficient, but given that you are only a short distance from the suburban edge of Heathcote, it makes for a surprisingly accessible escape into the wilderness.
Pipeline Trail
Pipeline Trail
Crossing the water pipeline
Mirang Pool on Heathcote Creek
Another Australian Water Dragon
Shortly after Mirang Pool, the pipeline road meets a junction with the Friendly Track, which you access by climbing up and over the massive concrete pipeline via a set of metal stairs and a platform. The track then begins a final, steady climb up a long hill beside Scout Gully, eventually breaking free from the bush and emerging into Heathcote at Freeman Road. From here, it is just a short, pleasant stroll to the train station, where you can hop on a service back to the city, leaving the quiet solitude of the creek behind as you return to the rhythm of Sydney.
The Friendly Trail
Scout Gully
The Friendly Trail
The Bullawarring Track is a fascinating reminder that you don't need to travel far from the city to find true wilderness. By linking the station-to-station route with an exploration of Heathcote Creek, you get to experience everything from historic industrial relics and scarred trees to the raw, natural beauty of Kingfisher Pool. It is a hike that perfectly balances the challenge of the bush with the convenience of public transport, making it an ideal day trip for any Sydneysider looking to trade the noise of the city for the song of the cicadas. Whether you’re interested in the area’s rich history or simply looking for a quiet place to escape the crowds, the track offers a rewarding and accessible journey through one of the region's most underrated parks.
Another fascinating look at the other side of the world. Love the wildlife shots.
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