Showing posts with label starbotton. Show all posts
Showing posts with label starbotton. Show all posts

Friday, 3 October 2014

Yorkshire 2000s - Buckden Pike via Buckden Beck

Buckden Pike 03-10-2014

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Route: Buckden, Buckden Beck, Buckden Lead Mine, Buckden Out Moor, Buckden Gavel, Buckden Pike, Memorial Cross, Starbotton Fell, Walden Road, East Side, Buckden

Date: 03/10/2014
From: Buckden


Parking: Roadside parking in Buckden
Start Point: Buckden village
Region: Yorkshire Dales

Route length: 5.2miles (8.3km)
Time taken: 02:05
Average speed: 2.5mph
Ascent: 513m
Descent: 519m

2000s on this walk: 
Buckden Pike (702m)

Additional summits: None

Other points of interest: Buckden Lead Mine, War Memorial

Buckden Pike is one of the higher fells in the Yorkshire Dales National Park and has views to match. It is, however, one of the less frequented of the higher peaks, often overlooked by the famous Three Peaks and the marginally higher Great Whernside a short distance away. This does not mean that it is not an interesting hill though, and this route is by far the most exciting and quickest way to the top.

I'd taken a day off work for a long weekend in the Lake District but the weather, as it is this time of year, had other ideas, focusing some intense rainfall over the Lake for much or Friday. Altering our plans slightly we decided we'd travel up on Saturday instead, leaving me with an entirely free day and nothing to do, so to speak.

In order not to waste a valuable non-work day, I set my sights a little closer to home and picked up the trail of the Yorkshire 2000s that has gone a little cold of late. My most recent foray into the hills of the Dales was that of Great Shunner Fell some months earlier so it was nice to be back.

Not wanting a too demanding day out, I decided on Buckden Pike, the fell sat on the eastern edge of the park that offered a nice morning walk without too much effort. I've seen routes up the hill from Buckden that follow Buckden Beck and, scouring the map, it looked by far the most interesting way up the hillside.

I left the car on the road outside the Buck Inn, there's plenty of space for a few cars. The beginnings of the route pass by the left-hand side of the pub, along a lane towards the obvious valley of Buckden Beck, and ignoring the signpost marking the route to Buckden Lead Mine.
The first sighting of Buckden Beck
After passing through a series of gates, the path reaches a Yorkshire Water owned treatment building, the supply to the village drawn directly from the stream (the actual intake is further up the hill). From here, the path follows Buckden Beck as it starts a steady climb.
The treatment building
Buckden Beck
After a short distance, the path reaches the first of a number of impressive, and seemingly impassable waterfalls. The first of the bunch gives a clue to the bypassing of the rest. Though not immediately obvious, prior to the amphitheatre of the fall, the path turns back on itself and leads to a small cleft in the rock face, wide enough to climb up with ease. Turning right at the top and following the path once again, you will find yourself high above the first fall that seemed so impenetrable a moment ago.
The first waterfall - a miniature Malham cove
A look path along the path - the gap can be seen on the right on the rocks
The route up the cleft
Buckden Beck from the top of the waterfall
Above the fall now
This process is repeated for the second fall and (possibly) the third. Upon reaching fall number three, I opted to climb up a crack in the wall, directly next to the fall, an exciting little adventure. It's obvious, as I reached the top, that the path bypasses this climb but I'm not sure where the fork is. Something to investigate next time.
Rounding an outcrop above the first waterfall
Above the second waterfall
The third fall
Close up of the third fall
The crack in the wall I climbed up
Buckden Beck above the third fall
The third fall marks the last of the difficulties, from here the route is easy to follow, the remaining few falls being easily bypassed up their grassy banks. After a few short moments of steadily climbing, the path reaches the sad remains of Buckden Gavel Lead Mine, perched high up on the hillside.
The fourth waterfall
The path continues alongside Buckden Beck
The remains of Buckden Lead Mine
Spoil heaps
The mine was unique in Wharfedale in that most of its ore came from pipes and flats in the limestone instead of from veins. The Old Pipe was discovered at its northern end, near Bishopdale, by a mine called Blow Groves, in the 1690s. In the steep side gill, immediately below the tips from the level, are the remains of Buckden High Smelt Mill, which is where ore was smelted over 100 years before the level was driven. This mill had a single, bellows-blown orehearth and only worked for about eight years. A shooting hut on Water Gill marks the site of Buckden Low Smelt Mill.
The entrance to the old mine
Track leading to the mine entrance
Bit of monochrome
More abandoned structures
It is still possible to enter the mine, through the small brick-built hole at the head of the valley. Subterranean activities are not really my strong point so it was back to the path and the final 100m climb across Buckden Out Moor towards the summit. This is the steeper part and the wind had started to get up, blowing the clouds in. Fortunately, they were content with whipping over the summit ridge rather than shrouding, making for an interesting spectacle.
A look back down into Wharfedale
Clouds on the ridge
The steepness abates as the path reaches the broad ridge of Buckden Pike, the lies a short distance to the north after crossing a drystone wall. A white OS pillar sits proudly on top, accompanied by an odd cairn with a post some metres distant. The summit also benefits from some fairly recently laid stone slabs to avoid any boggy parts.
Flagstones lead to the summit
A pillar marks the top
Along with a cairn and wooden viewing post
The trig pillar from the cairn
A windy day on the summit
The route continues on
Leaving the summit, travelling south this time, the stone capped path follows the wind-swept ridge for just under a mile before reaching another junction of drystone walls. On the other side stands a modest memorial, the final remnants of a remarkable story.
Boundary marker on the ridge
On Jan 30 1942, a crew of six Polish airmen from 18 O.T.U. took off from RAF Bramcote, Warwickshire on a training mission in a Wellington Bomber when, without warning, they flew into a bad snowstorm. In an attempt to find a suitable point of reference, the bomber clipped a stone wall on the ridge sending it careening into the hillside.

Sergeant Jozef Fusniak, the tail gunner, survived the crash when the rear section of the aircraft broke away upon impact. With a broken ankle, Jozef followed the tracks of a fox down to the village where he was rescued. Sadly, the other crash survivor, Jan Sadowski, did not survive the night.

Jozef was instrumental in getting the memorial erected in the 1970s, the current cross is perched on a substantial base in which parts of the wrecked aircraft are embedded. A bronze foxes head pays homage to the animal that undoubtedly saved Jozef's life.
The memorial to the crashed bomber
The fox's head is beneath the plaque
I was toying with the idea of continuing on to Tor Mere Top, the next high point of the ridge but, with the weather closing in, decided to begin the descent back to Buckden. A wide path meets the ridge at a boundary stone near the memorial, heading towards the start of Walden Road, a track leading to Starbotton.

Cutting a corner, I followed the wall around the hillside instead of dropping onto the track and continued cross-country in a northerly direction until I reached the bridleway that leads down from the lead mine (the same path I recommended avoiding earlier).
Yockenthwaite Moor
Walden Road
From here, it is a straightforward stroll back down the hillside to Buckden, following the signposts for the village. It is accompanied by some tremendous views of Wharfedale and Langstrothdale backed by Old Cote Moor and Yockenthwaite Moor (ones for another day).
Wharfedale backed by Old Cote Moor
The view along the bridleway to Buckden
Buckden Pike is one of the larger hills in the Dales and has one of the more interesting approaches, certainly the route I took. I'm struggling to think of a mountain of similar stature that has an easier climb. I'm told the views from the top area are among the best, mine were mostly grey, and this, coupled with its overall gentle nature, make it a perfect hill for budding adventurers to get started on. Or investigate further....

Sunday, 26 May 2013

Yorkshire 2000s - Great Whernside

Great Whernside 26-05-2013

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Route: Kettlewell, Dowber Gill Beck, Hag Dike, Great Whernside, Blackfell Top, Black Dike Hole, Tor Dike, Tor Mere Top, Starbotton Peat Ground, Starbotton Cam Road, Starbotton, Dales Way

Date: 26/05/2013
From: Kettlewell


Parking: National Park Car Park
Start Point: Kettlewell
Region: Yorkshire Dales

Route length: 10 miles (16.1km)
Time taken: 04:40
Average speed: 2.1mph
Ascent: 707m
Descent: 707m

Yorkshire 2000s on this walk: Great Whernside (704m)

Additional summits: Blackfell Top (699m), Tor Mere Top (628m)

Other points of interest: Providence Pot, Tor Dike, Dales Way

Great Whernside stands tall, overlooking Kettlewell and its summit, like its larger namesake, forms part of the boundary of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Sara and I have been to Kettlewell many times in the past but never ventured up the slopes towards Great Whernside. It's fair to say that my appetite for hill climbing wasn't what it is now so it came a bit of a surprise just how close Great Whernside is to Kettlewell and what a great walk could be accomplished. What better way to spend a bank holiday weekend with friends?

Contrary to typical bank holiday weather, we were blessed with clear skies, bright sun and a light breeze. A perfect day to soak up the scenery of the Yorkshire Dales. We met a couple of friends, Lizzy and Jordan, at Kettlewell and, after improvising some parking we kitted up and headed out through the village. We had decided on a circular walk that started with a climb up alongside Dowber Gill Beck, a fine example of a landscape feature of the Yoredale rocks; smooth-faced waterfalls.
The smooth-faced waterfalls formed as water passes over varying layers of rock
Dowber Gill Beck
After a steady climb in the warm sunshine, we approached a large group of people who appeared to be heading the same way. Burdened by their numbers and small children, we quickly passed as they stopped for a break and left them behind. The top of the path leads to the location where Hag Dike Gill Beck and Dowber Gill Wham meet to form Dowber Gill Beck. At this location you can find Providence Pot; a substantial cave system that comprises a series of large chambers and narrow joining passages. It is easily accessible to cavers thanks to its sturdy concrete surround, complete with manhole cover! More information can be found here.

From here, we turned back on ourselves and headed up a steep path that climbed out of the Dowber Gill Beck valley before crossing a peaty bog to reach Hag Dyke. Hag Dyke is a Scout Hostel acquired in 1947 for the Ben Rhydding Scout and Guide Group. Its history of occupation dates back to 1730 but it's possible that it was built in the late 1600s as a miners accommodation for the nearby Dowber Ghyll lead mines.
Hag Dyke sitting proudly on the slopes of Great Whernside overlooking Wharfedale below
As midday approached, the climb up towards the summit steepened as we left Hag Dyke behind. The frequent breeze was a welcome inclusion to ward off any over-heating at this point. After negotiating a 100m climb, we caught out breath on some limestone outcrops before venturing across the boggy slopes that lie just below the summit. It's fair to say that my green boots didn't stay green for long.
The steep climb up from Hag Dyke 
Sara stops to catch her breath before crossing the bogs
Jordan heads across the bogs towards the summit
After a further 200m climb, we reached the summit of Great Whernside. The summit scenery reminded me a great deal of some of the Peak District edges, particularly the scattered, square millstone grit boulders ("Whern" is derived from "quern" meaning millstone). At 704m, Great Whernside is the 6th highest hill on the list detailed in my previous post. Until 1997, there was no public right of way to the summit before two paths were registered up to and across the summit. In 2000 the mountain became access land, meaning you can now explore it all at your leisure. We took the opportunity to grab some lunch in the sheltered rocks before continuing along the summit ridge towards Blackfell Top.
The millstone grit topped summit of Great Whernside (704m)
Posing with the trig point
Looking north from the summit towards Blackfell Top and Blackfell Crags in the distance
The walk here was easygoing, passing a large ramshackle shelter before starting a descent perpendicular to the summit ridge. Crossing Black Dike, another boggy area, we reached Tor Dike. Tor Dike is a 2000 m long linear earthwork comprising a ditch and rampart built in the 1st century AD by Iron Age tribes to defend themselves from the Romans. As you can see from the picture below, it's an impressive feature as the path climbs up alongside.
Tor Dyke
Crossing the road that leads from Coverdale into Wharfedale, we entered the Access Land at Great Hunters Sleets and followed the rough path towards the summit of Tor Mere Top. Looking back presents a fine view of Great Whernside.
Panorama of Great Whernside from the path up Tor Mere Top
After a fairly strenuous climb through the afternoon heat and the long grass, we reached Tor Mere Top. At 628m it could be considered to be one of the Yorkshire 2000s however, the list I'm following is determined by the hill's status as a Nuttall, Hewitt or Marilyn. Unfortunately, Tor Mere Top's status as a Nuttall was revoked following improved mapping, removing its classification and its inclusion in the list.
The grassy summit of ex-Nuttall Tor Mere Top
With the briefest of stops to check the map, we started the descent towards Starbotton Cam Road to begin a 400m drop into Starbotton. Starbotton Cam Road is easy enough to walk down but the reflective white stones and stillness of the air in the valley made for a fairly hot and tiring descent. The road has some fine views of both Starbotton and also into the valley of Cam Gill Beck. Before long we reached Starbotton and crossed through the village to join the Dales Way, the walker's motorway, to head back to Kettlewell.
Sara follows the brightly lit Starbotton Cam Road to Starbotton
Starbotton Cam Road as viewed from the Dales Way, between Starbotton and Kettlewell
All that remained was a 2-mile stroll along the River Wharfe, dodging the sheep and crayfish, back to Kettlewell. It was at this point that we agreed it was a good idea not to increase the size of the walk by including Buckden Pike, as the legs were starting to feel the strain. Buckden Pike will just have to be saved for another day.

All in all, I really enjoyed this walk, particularly as the weather was on our side for once. Morale is certainly much higher when cold water isn't being blasted into your face. The Dales is a wonderful place when the sun is shining, especially when spring is in full flow and the colours are at their brightest. Fingers crossed the weather will be as kind to us during future walks. I have a feeling that the landscape of Great Whernside will be synonymous with many of the walks I'll be doing as part of this quest. We'll just have to wait and see.

Next stop, the Howgills.