Cathedral Quarry & The Tilberthwaite Fells

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Route: Low Tilberthwaite, High Tilberthwaite, Moss Rigg Wood, Cathedral Quarry, Slater Bridge, Low Hall Garth, Great Intake, High Fell, Hawk Rigg, Haystacks (Tilberthwaite), Blake Rigg, Tilberthwaite Gill, Horse Crag

Date: 01/12/2018
From: Low Tilberthwaite

Parking: Low Tilberthwaite
Start Point: Low Tilberthwaite
Region: Southern Fells

Route length: 5.2 miles (8.3 km)
Time taken: 2:58
Average speed: 1.7 mph
Ascent: 527m
Descent: 538m

Wainwrights on this walk:
None

Additional summits: Great Intake - Low Fell (408m), High Fell (Hawk Rigg) (428m), Hawk Rigg (441m), Haystacks (Tilberthwaite) (423m), Blake Rigg (Tilberthwaite (423m)

Other points of interest: Cathedral Quarry, Slater Bridge, Tilberthwaite Gill

We were in the Lake District for the weekend, hoping for some early winter coldness. Snow-dusted peaks and blue skies. Sadly, this was not to be the case as we were treated the best of 'late-autumn' - grey skies and near-constant rain. We had seen the likelihood of a wet weekend growing as it approached so we made plans accordingly, starting with this walk from Tilberthwaite.

Surprisingly, Tilberthwaite is an area I've never visited before. It's tucked away down a narrow road off the main Coniston-Ambleside route but, it has the rarest of Lake District things, free parking (for now). Tilberthwaite was once a thriving centre for slate quarrying, though the quarries have been idle for decades and nature has pretty much reclaimed them; blanketing them in deciduous woodland.

We were expecting a wet morning with the prospect of a drier afternoon so we set off north along the valley towards Little Langdale, hoping to give the weather a chance to improve while exploring some of the quarries of Little Langdale. We followed the road to High Tilberthwaite Farm and its fine collection of Grade II listed buildings.

The Yewdale Fells beneath the rain

High Tilberthwaite and Bakestone Barrow Wood

Beyond the farm, the path continues through woodland and huge piles of quarry spoil. It's amazing to think these piles began life as a single load from a cart or wheelbarrow from a newly established quarry. At Moss Rigg Wood, the path descends into Little Langdale.

Moss Rigg Wood

Here, hidden off the main path, is the remarkable Cathedral Quarry.

The entrance to Cathedral Quarry

Cathedral Quarry

The quarry is in the possession of National Trust, accessed through a 40m tunnel. It's not until you enter the main chamber that you can really appreciate the scale of the cavern and how it gets its name. Standing proudly in the centre is a dramatic spire of rock, deliberately left to support the roof as the quarrymen worked around it and backlit by a huge opening in the cavern roof. It's fair to say that the cavern is every bit as impressive as a natural cave. Several other passages can be reached by wandering around the quarry though these all require a torch to explore further.

Looking back along the tunnel

The cavern and the window

The exterior of the quarry

Looking down through the window

Cathedral Quarry

After wandering around the quarry for a bit, we continued our route into the depths of Little Langdale. We passed Slater's Bridge, an old pedestrian bridge, that connects the hamlet of Little Langdale with the many slate quarries in the Tilberthwaite area, including Cathedral Quarry and the Hodge Close Quarry. The two-part bridge takes advantage of a central large rock and a very long slate slab to cross the river on its way from Little Langdale Tarn to Elterwater. It may well be one of the most photographed bridges in the National Park, perhaps second only to Ashness Bridge (which is accessible by car).

Little Langdale

High Birk Howe in Little Langdale

Slater Bridge backed by Wrynose Fell

Slater Bridge

Slater Bridge

Upon reaching a junction of paths at the foot of Great Intake, we had a decision to make. Abandon the walk and head back to Tilberthwaite, or continue on to the higher ground below Wetherlam. Despite the appearance that the weather was not due to change, we decided to visit some of the minor peaks of the Tilberthwaite group of fells.

This collection of low hills see little in the way of visitors as the main routes into the Coniston fells bypass them. They are an interesting collection of knolls clustered to the north of Dry Cove Bottom (an ironic name on a day like today). The first of these from Little Langdale is Great Intake.

Climbing Great Intake

It was a pathless climb up to Great Intake. We did our best to take a direct line but bogs, heather, streams and low crags barred a straightforward route. Eventually, after weaving around many of the obstacles, we arrived at the summit and the beginning of the Tilberthwaite Fells.

Great Intake's summit

Great Intake is actually quite isolated from its neighbours. A deep trough slices between Greenburn and Tilberthwaite requiring a noticeable loss of height. A steep, though short, climb leads to the ambitiously named High Fell.

High Fell from the west side of Great Intake

Looking back to Great Intake

High Fell backed by Hawk Rigg

I'd like to comment on the views but, sadly, a grey drizzle had settled upon the Lake District, dashing any hope of a dry afternoon. Fortunately, despite having a few fells to visit, they all sit in a tight huddle above Dry Cove Bottom. The merest of descents and re-ascents took us over Hawk Rigg, Haystacks (not the Haystacks!) and Blake Rigg.

Henfoot Beck from Blake Rigg

Dry Cove Bottom

Beyond Blake Rigg is the huge incision of Tilberthwaite Gill, draining the coves east of Wetherlam. We followed the slopes of Blake Rigg's southern ridge to meet the walker's path at Dry Cove Bottom before following the path which skirts the northern side of Tilberthwaite, giving views down into the waterfalls below. If there's a silver lining to a rainy day it's the spectacular display of waterfalls in spate.

Birk Fell Man

Blake Rigg

Tilberthwaite Gill

The path high above the gill

Tilberthwaite Gill

Tilberthwaite Gill

Yewdale Beck

The path leads back to Tilberthwaite though we took the opportunity to cross the gill via a footbridge deep in the valley, now descending on the opposite side. This leads directly to the car park but also passes by another huge quarry which itself is interesting. Ultimately we made it back to the car, soaked through but having managed a half-decent outing on the fells.

Horse Crag Quarry

Horse Crag Quarry

The entrance to Horse Crag Quarry

The Greenburn Round

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Route: Grasmere, Easedale Road, White Crag, High Raven Crag, Helm Crag, Bracken Hause, Gibson Knott, Moment Crag, Calf Crag, Shoots, Steel Fell, Cotra Breast, Helmside, Ghyll Foot, Grasmere

Date: 09/12/2017
From: Grasmere

Parking: A591 Layby
Start Point: Grasmere
Region: Central Fells

Route length: 7.8 miles (12.55 km)
Time taken: 03:58
Average speed: 1.97 mph
Ascent: 743m
Descent: 752m

Wainwrights on this walk:
Helm Crag (405m), Gibson Knott (422m), Calf Crag (537m), Steel Fell (553m)

Other Summits: None

Other Points of Interest: Far Easedale, Greenburn

Despite the modest height of the surrounding fells, a circuit of the Greenburn valley has so far defeated me on three previous occasions; wind, rain and wind-blown snow being the main culprits. This time, however, there was nothing standing in the way of finally joining up the route between Helm Crag and Steel Fell.

It was a promising forecast, sun for much of the day but cold with a significant dusting of snow. It had all the hallmarks of a great day out.

The starting point I've used many times is the long layby along the A591 as it leaves Grasmere to the north, heading for Dunmail Raise. Arriving here early is the key as, even on quiet days, it can quickly fill up. A short stroll through the village is required to reach Easdale Road which begins the route towards Far Easedale.

Helm Crag basking in the morning sun

The fells above Far Easedale

Silver How

Prior to reaching Brimmer Head Farm, a narrow walled lane leaves the road to begin climbing Helm Crag. Despite the huge rocks on the ground, it's helpfully signed posted 'no cars' - I'd be surprised if anything could actually drive up it, even the venerable Land Rover Defender. A well-laid path zigzags up the southern slopes of the fell giving tremendous views of Easedale and Far Easedale beyond. Though the path had a considerable covering of ice, all of it was avoidable for now.

The way is pretty clear

Easedale Beck

Easdale Beck and Easedale

Brimmer Head Farm

Tarn Crag

'NOT FOR CARS'

The lower part of Helm Crag's path

Sun over Loughrigg Fell

Easedale

I paused overlooking Dunmail Raise before pressing on towards the top. The fell turns more rocky and mountainous as you reach the top and it's an interesting place for a look around. The rocks that create The Lion and The Lamb loom ahead and appear to be the highest at first glance. However, along the ridge is an equally prominent rock, The Howitzer, that forms the true summit of the fell. It's climbable but not as straightforward as it initially appears.

Blea Rigg

Far Easedale

The icy path on Helm Crag

Grasmere

Stone Arthur

Seat Sandal, Fairfield, Great Rigg, Stone Arthur and Heron Pike

The Langdale Pikes

Helm Crag's 'Lion'

Looking through Dunmail Raise towards Thirlmere

Helm Crag's summit with Dunmail Raise in the background

Bracken Hause separates Helm Crag from the neighbouring Gibson Knott and provides a quick way back down to the valley below if required. Up ahead is a short climb up onto Gibson Knott, a knobbly section of the ridge that is classed as a fell in its own right.

Bracken Hause, Gibson Knott, Greenburn Bottom and Steel Fell

Steel Fell, Dunmail Raise and the Helvellyn range

Helm Crag from Bracken Hause

Easedale and Silver How

Far Easedale

Gibson Knott's summit looking towards Steel Fell

The path continues on crossing lumps and knolls as it does until it reaches the prominent Calf Crag, standing proud above the empty  Brownrigg Moss though surrounded by higher fells on almost all sides.

Steel Fell

Tarn Crag and Blea Rigg

The ridge route towards Calf Crag

Seat Sandal with Fairfield behind

Blakerigg Crag on Steel Fell

Far Easedale

A brief break in the clouds

The imposing Deer Bields

Far Easedale panorama

Pike of Carrs

Looking back along Far Easedale

Deer Bields, Blea Rigg and a distant Wetherlam

Approaching Calf Crag

The final plod to the summit

Calf Crag's summit cairn

High Raise

High Raise panorama from Calf Crag

From Calf Crag the route is easy enough, following an old boundary fence (marked by the iron posts that remain). It swings close to the edge above Greenburn at Shoots, giving a superb view into the valley. An easy climb follows to reach the summit of Steel Fell.

Far Easedale

Blue skies over the Helvellyn range

Greenburn

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Greenburn

Rough Crag

Brownrigg Moss

The central and southern fells

Nab Crags

Wythburn

One of the old boundary posts on Steel Fell

Panorama from Steel Fell

Steel Fell

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Now, a brief lesson. As I began to make my descent, I happen upon a steep, fairly icy section of Cotra Breast. Given the experience of the day, I decided that by the time I had wrestled my crampons out of the bag and lashed them to my boots I could have negotiated the steep bit and be happily on my way. I had also passed a fell-runner coming in the other direction making light work of the area.

Raise Beck

Cotra Breast

Great Rigg

Panorama from Cotra Breast

Cotra Breast

No sooner had I clambered down the rocks, I stood on a small patch of sheet ice, sending me sprawling down, hard on my shoulder before sliding on my back a short distance. After indulging in some colourful language, I sat up, thankful that I had come to a stop with nothing more than a bruised arm and ego. Fortunately, I was never at risk of being thrown off an edge and it was just a minor scare and a valuable lesson learnt.

Steel Fell

The rest of the descent passed without incident though my shoulder was causing some discomfort. As I sit writing this a month later, it's only just feeling back to its old self. At the bottom of the slope is Helmside Cottage and a stretch of roading walking back to the layby.

The view along Grasmere

Gibson Knott over Greenburn

Helm Crag's summit features

Steel Fell

Greenburn

Below Helm Crag

Cotra Breast leading to Steel Fell

Seat Sandal

So, after numerous attempts to complete the Greenburn Round, I had finally done it. It goes to show that even the more modest peaks can get some gnarly weather. I'll remember this walk for the tumble on Steel Fell but rather it happened here than on something like the Corridor Route. It's all experience in the end.