It is estimated that 20 million people live within an hour's drive of the Peak District, and we're lucky that our hour takes us to the wild and woolly Dark Peak with its famous open moors and gritstone edges. The crowning glory of this area is Kinder Scout. The huge moorland plateau rises to a height of over 2,000 ft — the highest point in the Peak District, but its charms lie away from this fact.
The Kinder edges are the highlight, and the southern edge is the most popular but arguably the best. I've walked the various edges several times from multiple starting points, including Hayfield, Edale and Snake Pass, culminating in the classic Kinder Circuit. Today we'd be visiting the southern edge by climbing Grindsbrook Clough — a popular boulder-strewn valley.
We began in Edale, as many heading for Kinder Scout invariably do, making our way past the station and along the lane leading past the church to Grindsbrook Booth. This is a hamlet consisting of a few cottages, a farm, a school, and the all-important pub. As the lane reaches the gates of Grindslow House, a shady path leaves to the right, crossing Grinds Brook and entering the open fields below The Nab.
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| Edale |
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| Edale Parish Church |
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| The Nab |
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| The steep slopes below Ringing Roger |
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| Grindsbrook Clough and Kinder Scout |
Paving slabs lead the way into Grindsbrook Clough, ending to become a substantial track at Golden Clough that climbs at an easy gradient above the tumbling stream. At a bend in the stream between a rock outcrop, take the opportunity to leave the track and make the rest of the climb along the stream itself. If it has been particularly wet, you may want to consider waterproof boots for this bit.
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| Grindsbrook Clough |
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| Grindsbrook Clough |
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| The path follows the edge of the stream to begin with |
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| Grindsbrook Clough |
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| The tumbling waters of Grinds Brook |
The path continues directly ahead, climbing more steeply up the rock-strewn valley. Some mild scrambling is involved in climbing towards the ridgeline, but nothing is too difficult. You'll shortly emerge on the southern edge of Kinder Scout.
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| Grindsbrook Clough, below Edale Moor |
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| Grindsbrook Clough |
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| Looking back down along Grindsbrook Clough |
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| Kinder Scout |
A path runs the entire length of Kinder Scout's perimeter, which is undoubtedly a relic of ancient travellers combined with modern tourists. The most popular part runs between Nether Tor and Kinder Low, passing many more interesting sights that Kinder offers. It's both easy to follow and (once you've made the climb to reach it) relatively flat.
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| The view from Edale Moor |
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| The southern escarpment path |
The path crosses the bottom of Grindslow Knoll and then follows the edge of the deep Crowden Clough. Below you are Upper Booth's fields and the Pennine Way's early section from Edale. The head of Crowden Clough is dominated by Crowden Tower, appearing like a dark grey apartment building perched on the side of the hill.
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| Kinder Scout |
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| Crowden Tower |
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| Crowden Tower |
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| The head of Crowden Brook |
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| Crowden Brook |
From Crowden Tower, the landscape changes, becoming much barer as the path winds its course through the Wool Packs, a series of enormous gritstone blocks tossed about the landscape like discarded children's toys. This really is an amazing place. Some very boggy bits litter the main walking path, making the going slightly more treacherous.
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| There are some peculiarly shaped rocks along the way |
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| The Wool Packs |
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| The Wool Packs |
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| The Wool Packs |
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| Boggy sections may persist year-round |
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| The Wool Packs |
We'd made it through the Wool Packs to Pym Chair, which is thought to be the chosen location for a local preacher to deliver sermons. However, there are tales that it was the location where a highwayman preyed on unwitting travellers on the lonely moor. I'll let you select your favourite.
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| A view to Brown Knoll with the Pennine Way at Jacob's Ladder below |
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| Wool Packs |
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| Edale Head |
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| Edale Head |
Despite having already witnessed some fascinating sights, there was still more to come as we plotted our route off the plateau via the Edale Cross and Jacob's Ladder. The Pennine Way would be our guide back to Edale, the famous route finishing (or starting) at the Rambler Inn in the village. As the path delves beneath Edale Rocks (another impressive rock tor), it meets the ancient packhorse route between Manchester and Sheffield, where you can find the Edale cross hidden away, protected in an alcove of drystone walls.
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| The Edale Head and a distant Wool Packs |
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| Noe Stool |
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| Heading towards Swine's Back |
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| The Pennine Way |
Beyond the cross, the path continues along the packhorse route towards Edale, slowly descending into the valley below some further impressive tors, including the delightful Pagoda Rock. Edale was a convenient stopping point on two significant packhorse routes and would have provided an overnight break for packhorse men and their horses. To descend the steep valley, the route heads down Jacob's Ladder.
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| At the top of Jacob's Ladder |
In the late 18th century, Jacob Marshall occupied Edale Head Farm, the ruins of which are close to the packhorse bridge along a track heading west. He kept a small enclosure for packhorses to graze in and is credited with constructing the steep direct path up the hillside to give the packhorse men a respite. Their horses took the longer zigzag route – hence the Jacob's Ladder name. We chose the shorter, steeper route down the slope, reaching the pleasant packhorse bridge at the bottom.
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| At the top of Jacob's Ladder is a large cairn |
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| The unmistakable Peak District footpath signs |
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| Jacob's Ladder |
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| The pack horse bridge over the infant River Noe |
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| River Noe |
The Pennine Way makes its way from the bottom of Jacob's Ladder back towards Edale, snaking through Lee Farm and the hamlet of Upper Booth. From Upper Booth, we opted to follow the footpath to Barber Booth, then along the railway line back to Edale, avoiding a final hurdle where the Pennine Way crosses the slopes of Broadlee Bank Tor. The path crosses the railway a couple of times before it emerges back in Edale.
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| Edale |
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| Lee Farm |
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| Lord's Seat |
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| Broadlee-Bank Tor |
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| Edales' famous Great Ridge |
Whether you’re buzzing from the scramble up Grindsbrook Clough or just quietly reflecting on the solitude of the Wool Packs, finishing a walk like this in Edale feels earned. It’s a place that rewards those who put the miles in, and there’s no better way to cap off the day than a pint at the Rambler Inn, looking back up towards the Great Ridge and knowing you’ve just spent the day in one of the finest corners of the Peak District. If you’re looking for a route that has a bit of everything—grit, history, and horizon-stretching views—Kinder Scout will never let you down.
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