The Curra Moors Track officially starts from a lay-by just off Sir Bertram Stevens Drive, the main road through the Royal National Park, named after a previous NSW Premier. After leaving the car in the only vacant space, we were immediately plunged into the thick heath as the track slowly descends across Curra Moors towards the coast. You'll notice any traffic noise quickly disappears as the vegetation on both sides of the path is so dense.
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| The track is in a poor state at the moment after successive floods |
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| Curra Moors Track |
Along the way are a handful of small streams that cut across the path, requiring some nimble footwork to negotiate, but, before long, you will emerge at the Curra Moors Fire Trail and the open coastal heath. The dominant banksia plants are much smaller than the eucalyptus trees, and you'll start to get your first glimpses of the ocean.
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| Curra Brook |
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| The coastal heath |
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| Curra Moors Fire Trail |
The trail leads to the Coast Track, one of the premier hiking routes in the Sydney area, linking the village of Otford to Bundeena, spanning the length of the Royal National Park coastline. The 29 km hike is spectacular and a worthy undertaking. So popular is the route that much of it comprises metal walkways to protect the plants after a serious bushfire in 2018. During the winter, you will likely see migrating humpback whales swimming off the coast on their annual migration.
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| The Coast Track |
The track follows the top of the cliffs towards Curracurrong Falls, where there are some sweeping views across the national park. Along the way you will encounter a couple of smaller creeks that flow to the cliffs and, on breezy days like today, can get blown backwards onto the path. Finally, there's an interesting crossing over Curra Brook before you eventually reach Curracurrong Creek and the waterfall.
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| Views of the Pacific Ocean |
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| Cliffs of the Royal National Park |
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| Reverse waterfalls |
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| The Coast Track |
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| Approaching Curracurrong Falls |
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| Curra Brook |
Curracurrong Falls is arguably the best waterfall in Royal National Park thanks to its dramatic location and 82 m drop into the ocean. According to Wikipedia, it is one of only three permanent waterfalls in Australia that discharge into an ocean. There are good views of the waterfall from the cliff tops; however, one of the best views of the waterfall is from beneath an overhanging rock, just below the main path. You can get there by scrambling down the rocks towards the creek, then heading to the right.
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| Above Curra Brook |
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| Curracurrong Falls |
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| The overhang with its view of the falls and Eagle Rock |
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| Curracurrong Falls |
The view of the waterfall is backed by Eagle Rock, a precarious overhanging rock outcrop which bears a striking resemblance to an eagle's head (or perhaps a turtle?) complete with a mouth and hooked beak. The cascades along the creek are also pretty, making the whole area one of the most interesting places in the national park.
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| Eagle Rock |
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| Curracurrong Creek |
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| Upper Curracurrong Falls |
After exploring the waterfall and its surroundings, it was time to close the loop by starting the return leg towards Sir Bertram Stevens Drive. Returning to the parking area first involves a hike along the Curra Moors Fire Trail again, gradually ascending the moorland.
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| Curra Moors Fire Trail |
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| On the Curra Moors Track |
The fire trail eventually reaches a natural fork, giving you the choice to bear right toward the main road or bear left to rejoin the initial stretch of the Curra Moors Track. Opting for the latter, we retraced the familiar path we had walked earlier in the day, easing our way back through the coastal scrub, eventually bringing us right back to the trailhead parking area.
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