Saturday, 9 September 2023

Georges Heights & Middle Head

Perched high on the sandstone bluffs guarding the entrance to Port Jackson, the coastal trail linking Georges Heights and Middle Head packs an astonishing amount of beauty and history into a short 6.5-kilometre loop. This easy urban circuit winds down through coastal bushland and quiet bays before stepping straight into Australia’s military past. From convict-hewn 1801 gun emplacements and hidden subterranean casemates to the dramatic, wind-swept bluffs of Middle Head, it pairs deep historical intrigue with some of the most commanding panoramic views across Sydney Harbour and out through The Heads.

Georges Heights & Middle Head

📍 SYDNEY AND SURROUNDS

Distance 6.5 km
Duration 02:00 hrs
Elev Gain +159 m
Elev Lost -148 m
Date 09 September 2023
Starting Point Clifton Gardens Reserve
Difficulty Easy
Pace / Gear 4.6 km/h — Light day pack
Highlights 1801 Fort, Middle Head Fort, Georges Heights
🗺️ Interactive Route Map Pinch or use wheel to zoom
While acting as the driver for the day, I recently found myself at Georges Heights with a few hours of free time on my hands. Luckily, embarking on a hike around the headland towards Middle Head ranks among the top experiences in Sydney Harbour, particularly if you appreciate wide-ranging vistas, the ocean, or historic military installations (or all of the above).

After parking close to the barracks at Georges Heights, I made my way along Dominion Close to the Georges Heights oval, where there are several tracks that lead to the fringes of the old naval complex, now part of the Headland Park. I had decided to save the Georges Heights lookout until the end of the hike, but you could visit it straight from the car park if you so wish.
Parkland at Dominion Close
Clifton Gardens Reserve
I followed the concrete path down towards Chowder Bay through Clifton Gardens Reserve, passing the pair of oil tanks that provide fuel for ships mooring off Chowder Bay. At the bottom of the hill is Chowder Bay Road, home to various small businesses, including the Drift Café and Sergeant's Mess, a venue that occupies the old officers' mess building, which has a commanding view of the harbour. 
Sydney Harbour
Shark Island
I followed the bay road around the lower flanks of Georges Head, where you'll find remnants of the extensive defences which protected Sydney Harbour from attack. The most impressive (and most well-hidden) is the Beehive Casemate, a series of underground gun chambers carved out of the sandstone bedrock. Only the access trenches are visible from the surface.
The entrance to the Armoured Casemate at Georges Head
A peek through the entrance gate 
After passing the casemate, I stayed on the track within the national park that leads to the old 1801 fort. The emplacement here is the oldest colonial fortification in Australia. It was hewn by hand out of solid rock using a work gang of 44 convicts, leaving a curved parapet along the cliff edge. Once past the old fort, it's a short stroll to Middle Head. 
Obelisk Bay
The 1801 fort track
The 1801 fort
Middle Head is one of the seven headlands encircling Sydney's harbour, serving as an exceptional vantage point that gazes directly between the north and south heads, offering stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. It's no surprise that a substantial collection of historical gun emplacements can be found in this location. 
Entering Middle Head
Middle Head fort
Middle Head fort
The 1801 fort was the first defence built at Middle Head and the last batteries were constructed in 1942 though the majority of the fortifications were built between 1870 and 1910. The site contains the works of several periods and technologies, which remain in place today. Historically, it dates from the time when the defence was first moved away from Sydney Cove / Warrane (where the Harbour Bridge is located) and towards The Heads — the outer arms of Sydney Harbour.
The old gun emplacements at Middle Head
The fort has a commanding view of the entrance to Sydney Harbour
South Head and Hornby Lighthouse
A view into Middle Harbour
Middle Head fort
Rooms located below ground were used to train some of Australia's first troops who were sent to Vietnam in 'Code of Conduct' courses, which were lessons in how to withstand torture and interrogation, by simulating prisoner of war conditions.
Middle Head fort
They underwent a gruelling 80 hours of unsettling scenarios designed to mimic the potential hardships of being captured by Chinese or Korean forces. At least once during their harrowing experience, the prisoners were confined in the infamous tiger cages. These tiger cages remain in existence today, a stark reminder of the peculiar military practices that once occurred there.
Middle Head fort
After wandering around the old fort, I made my way back to the entrance and the road that passes one of the modern naval bases at HMAS Penguin, home to one of the main training establishments. Close by is a footpath through the bush which climbs to an amazing viewpoint across Sydney Harbour.
The path to Cobblers Beach
There was plenty of flowering gorse around Middle Head
Sydney Harbour National Park
Sydney Harbour National Park
Sydney Harbour from the Headland Park
Watson's Bay and The Gap
The suburb of Vaucluse
Hornby Lighthouse on South Head
The Manly ferry
The heights are home to the historic fortifications that formed the 'outer line' of defence for Sydney Harbour. The outer line consisted of a series of gun batteries designed so that soldiers could fire upon enemy ships trying to enter the harbour. The Georges Head Battery created part of this 'outer line' with construction in 1871.
Georges Head
Now, the current lookout is located at the former site of the A84 Battery. It originally housed six guns in open circular pits connected to an underground magazine by zigzag passages and tunnels. Views across the harbour are stunning, and there is a bronze plaque on the floor that provides a fascinating look at the various Sydney harbour defences.
Georges Head
Chowder Bay with Sydney beyond
The map of the harbour defences
Between 1916 and 1921, a large military hospital operated at Georges Heights, providing care to soldiers injured on the Western Front during the Great War. Known as the Hospital on the Hill, this heritage building today serves as the headquarters of the Sydney Harbour Trust but was occupied by the Australian Army until 2002. Now open to the public, the lookout sports a beautiful view of the harbour and city alongside a fancy cafe/restaurant.
One of the locals at Georges Head
Georges Head
Chowder Bay and Sydney Harbour
Georges Head
Georges Head
The gun emplacements on Georges Head
The old hospital buildings at Georges Heights
Between 1916 and 1921, a large military hospital operated at Georges Heights, providing care to soldiers injured on the Western Front during the Great War. Known as the Hospital on the Hill, this important heritage building today serves as the headquarters of the Sydney Harbour Trust. The main road through the old hospital led me directly back to the car, completing a short but very interesting circuit.

Middle Head is a wonderful spot on Sydney Harbour. The panoramic views of the Eastern Suburbs, Sydney Harbour, and Man from the fort are stunning, while the combination of history, nature, and adventure makes this one of the best short hikes in Sydney.

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