Middle Head & Georges Heights 09-09-2023
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Route: Dominion Crescent, Clifton Gardens Reserve, Chowder Bay Road, Armoured Casemates, Headland Park, 1801 Fort, Middle Head, Cobblers Beach Road, Middle Head Road, Sydney Harbour National Park, Georges Head, Georges Heights Hospital
Date: 09/09/2023
From: Georges Heights
Parking: Dominion Crescent
Start Point: Clifton Gardens Reserve
Finish Point: Georges Heights
Region: Sydney Harbour National Park
Route length: 6.5km
Time taken: 02:00
Average speed: 4.6km
Ascent: 159m
Descent: 148m
Points of Interest: 1801 Fort, Middle Head Fort, Georges Heights
While acting as the driver for the day, I recently found myself at Georges Heights with a few hours of free time on my hands. Luckily, embarking on a hike around the headland towards Middle Head ranks among the top experiences in Sydney Harbour, particularly if you appreciate wide-ranging vistas, the ocean, or historic military installations (or all of the above).
After parking close to the barracks at Georges Heights, I made my way along Dominion Close to the Georges Heights oval where there are several different tracks that lead to the fringes of the old naval complex, now part of the Headland Park. I had decided to save the Georges Heights lookout until the end of the hike but you could visit it straight from the car park if you so wish.
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| Parkland at Dominion Close |
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| Clifton Gardens Reserve |
I followed the concrete path down towards Chowder Bay through Clifton Gardens Reserve, passing the pair of oil tanks that provide fuel for ships mooring off Chowder Bay. At the bottom of the hill is Chowder Bay Road, home to several small businesses including the Drift Cafe and Sergeant's Mess, a venue that occupies the old officers' mess building which has a commanding view of the harbour.
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| Sydney Harbour |
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| Shark Island |
I followed the bay road around the lower flanks of Georges Head where you'll find remnants of the extensive defences which protected Sydney Harbour from attack. The most impressive (and most well-hidden) is the Beehive Casemate, a series of underground gun chambers carved out of the sandstone bedrock. Only the access trenches are visible from the surface.
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| The entrance to the Armoured Casemate at Georges Head |
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| A peek through the entrance gate |
After passing the casemate, I stayed on the track within the national park that leads to the old 1801 fort. The emplacement here is the oldest colonial fortification in Australia. It was hewn by hand out of solid rock using a work gang of 44 convicts, leaving a curved parapet along the cliff edge. Once past the old fort, it's a short stroll to Middle Head.
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| Obelisk Bay |
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| The 1801 fort track |
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| The 1801 fort |
Middle Head is one of the seven headlands encircling Sydney's harbour, serving as an exceptional vantage point that gazes directly between the north and south heads, offering stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. It's no surprise that a substantial collection of historical gun emplacements can be found in this location.
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| Entering Middle Head |
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| Middle Head fort |
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| Middle Head fort |
The 1801 fort was the first defence built at Middle Head and the last batteries were constructed in 1942 though the majority of the fortifications were built between 1870 and 1910. The site contains the works of several periods and technologies, which remain in place today. Historically, it dates from the time when the defence was first moved away from Sydney Cove / Warrane (where the Harbour Bridge is located) and towards The Heads - the outer arms of Sydney Harbour. |
| The old gun emplacements at Middle Head |
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| The fort has a commanding view of the entrance to Sydney Harbour |
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| South Head and Hornby Lighthouse |
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| A view into Middle Harbour |
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| Middle Head fort |
Rooms located below ground were used to train some of Australia's first troops who were sent to Vietnam in 'Code of Conduct' courses, which were lessons in how to withstand torture and interrogation, by simulating prisoner of war conditions. |
| Middle Head fort |
They underwent a gruelling 80 hours of unsettling scenarios designed to mimic the potential hardships of being captured by Chinese or Korean forces. At least once during their harrowing experience, the prisoners were confined in the infamous tiger cages. These tiger cages remain in existence today, a stark reminder of the peculiar military practices that once occurred there.
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| Georges Head |
Now, the current lookout is located at the former site of the A84 Battery. It originally housed six guns in open circular pits connected to an underground magazine by zig-zag passages and tunnels. Views across the harbour are stunning and there is a bronze plaque on the floor that provides a fascinating look at the various Sydney harbour defences.
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| Georges Head |
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| Chowder Bay with Sydney beyond |
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| The map of the harbour defences |
Between 1916 and 1921, a large military hospital operated at Georges Heights, providing care to soldiers injured on the Western Front during the Great War. Known as the Hospital on the Hill, this heritage building today serves as the headquarters of the Sydney Harbour Trust but was occupied by the Australian Army until 2002. Now open to the public, the lookout sports a beautiful view of the harbour and city alongside a fancy cafe/restaurant.
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| One of the locals at Georges Head |
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| Georges Head |
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| Chowder Bay and Sydney Harbour |
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| Georges Head |
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| Georges Head |
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| The gun emplacements on Georges Head |
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| The old hospital buildings at Georges Heights |
Between 1916 and 1921, a large military hospital operated at Georges Heights, providing care to soldiers injured on the Western Front during the Great War. Known as the Hospital on the Hill, this important heritage building today serves as the headquarters of the Sydney Harbour Trust. The main road through the old hospital led me directly back to the car, completing a short but very interesting circuit.
Middle Head is a wonderful spot on Sydney Harbour. The panoramic views of the Eastern Suburbs, Sydney Harbour, and Manly from the fort are stunning while the combination of history, nature, and adventure makes this one of the best short hikes in Sydney.
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