Friday, 2 December 2022

Mount Beerburrum & the Yul-yan-man Track

Soaring dramatically above the Sunshine Coast hinterland, the volcanic plugs of the Glass House Mountains form one of Queensland’s most striking landscapes. This 17-kilometre circuit links the base of the mighty Mount Tibrogargan with the summit of Mount Beerburrum, tracing WWI soldier settler history before tackling the rugged, boulder-strewn Yul-yan-man Track. Delivering sweeping panoramas across ancient basalt spires and forested ridges, it’s a diverse hike that showcases the very best of this ancient terrain.

Title

📍 LOCATION

Distance 17.0 km
Duration 04:31 hrs
Elev Gain +586 m
Elev Lost -617 m
Date 02 December 2022
Starting Point Tibrogargan Circuit
Difficulty Moderate
Pace / Gear 4.4 km/h — Full day pack
Highlights Mount Tibrogargan, Mount Beerburrum, Jack Ferris Lookout
🗺️ Interactive Route Map Pinch or use wheel to zoom
This weekend, life took me to Queensland for work, so I took the opportunity to explore the famed Glass House Mountains, located around an hour north of Brisbane, Queensland's largest city. Given their European name by Captain Cook, the rocky peaks are spiritually significant to the Jinibara and Gubbi Gubbi peoples of the area and represent a mother, a father and their many children, and you'll see why.

The imposing rock towers and spires are the remains of volcanic plugs left isolated after the softer sandstone surrounding them was eroded away. It is estimated they were formed some 25 million years ago. Now, bushwalking and climbing are popular in the Glass House Mountains; however, only a handful of the peaks are accessible without any special equipment, and Mount Beerburrum is one of them.

I began this hike at the base of a different peak, Mount Tibrogargan - probably one of the most impressive of the Glass House Mountains as it dominates the Bruce Highway. There is an exceptionally steep route that climbs to the summit of Mount Tibrogargan; however, I did not have the time, as I had an afternoon flight back to Sydney (be warned, climbing Mount Tibrogargan should not be underestimated). Instead, I was content with the Tibrogargan Circuit, which makes a loop of the base of the mountain and has several lookouts along the way.
I'd be using both of these paths today
Mount Tibrogargan dominates the first section of this hike
The route to climb the peak can clearly be seen
The twin peaks of Mount Tunbubudla
Mount Beerwah and Mount Coochin
Mount Coochin
The Tibragargan Circuit track
The loop track around Mount Tibrogargan joins another formed trail - the Trachyte Circuit Track. I'd only be using a short section of it, but it provides a link between Mount Tibrogargan and Mount Tibberoowuccum - traversing several landscapes, from pine forestry to riparian rainforest, open woodland, and heathland.

The path crosses Tibrogargan Creek before reaching a fork with the Soldier Settlers Trail, which provides the means of getting to Mount Beerburrum. The trail gets its odd name from the fact that the small township of Beerburrum was chosen as a place where soldiers who served in World War I could be settled after the war. Around 500 blocks of land were allocated to returned servicemen, and 437 took up the offer and laid the foundation for the early growth of the towns along the rail corridor north of Brisbane.
Crossing Tibragargan Creek
In the shadow of Mount Tibrogargan
Stands of trees along the Soldier Settlers Trail
Mount Tibrogargan
The trail leads to the Beerburrum Cemetery. The first burial for the cemetery is thought to have been in 1920, the year following the completion of the new Beerburrum Hospital. The full number of burials is not clear, with reports ranging from 14 to 38 graves. Most of those burials were returned soldiers. By 1932 the settlement had failed, with the population declining to such low numbers that the hospital was closed. The last burial followed, a few years later, in 1932.
The Beerburrum Cemetary
The township of Beerburrum sits at the foot of Mount Beerburrum which has a path to the summit. It is incredibly steep, especially the last 700m when the path becomes paved. At the top is a fire tower and a sweeping view across the Glass House Mountains.
There is a path from the township to the lower slopes of Mount Beerburrum
It climbs through the bush to a second car park
Climbing the paved path towards the summit of Mount Beerburrum
Looking down one of the steeper sections
The Beerburrum fire tower
Mount Beerwah
Mount Beerwah
Mount Tibrogargan
The distant city of Brisbane
Mount Beerwah and Mount Coochin
Descending the steep path is no easier than climbing it, but it is necessary to continue this hike. At the foot of the paved path on Mount Beerburrum is the Yul-yan-man Track, a rough route that forges across a rocky ridge back towards Mount Tibrogargan. Despite being created in 2020, it already seems to have a bit of a reputation as a fairly tough hike.
The Yul-yan-man track starts from a small car park below Mount Beerburrum
It is accompanied by a brief warning
The first section trends uphill for quite a long way, while the track is extremely rocky and faint. Pink markers attached to the rock mark the route, so keep an eye out for those. It then spends a long while descending again as it makes its way northwards along the Trachyte Ridge. Yul-yan-man translates to 'walk slowly' in the local indigenous language, and I can see why.
Following the markers along the route
The first section of the Yul-yan-man track is very rocky
One of the pink markers along the route
A glimpse of Mount Tibrogargan
Views begin to open up a bit before reaching an amazing ridge that is easily the best section of the Yul-yan-man Track. The views encompass the nearby peaks of Mount Tibrogargan and Mount Tibberoowuccum and the further peaks of Mount Beerwah and Mount Coonowrin.
There are views of Mount Tibberoowuccum and Mount Tibrogargan along the ridge
Some typical Aussie bush
The open ridge
Mount Tibrogargan
Mount Beerwah and Mount Coochin
After the rocky ridge is a very steep descent that picks a route down some slick boulders. Fine on a day like today but much trickier in the wet. This ultimately leads onto the Trachyte Circuit Track and to the Jack Ferris Lookout, which has a grand view of the nearby rocky peaks.
The final section of the Yul-yan-man Track involves a steep descent
Mount Tibberoowuccum
The view of Mount Tibrogargan from Jack Ferris Lookout
A close-up of the cliffs of Mount Tibrogargan
Mount Beerwah
It's not far from Jack Ferris Lookout to the car park at the foot of Mount Tibrogargan, where I had left the car earlier in the day. The Glass House Mountains are quite spectacular, and you'll get some of the best views of them along this hike. A special mention to the Yul-yan-man Track, which is very enjoyable, especially when you get the views of those imposing peaks. It is definitely worth a visit.

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