Sunday, 18 September 2022

The Three Sisters, Giant Stairway, Federal Pass & Furber Steps - Blue Mountains National Park

Echo Point, Giant Stairway, Federal Pass & Furber Steps 18-09-2022

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Route: Scenic World, Reid's Plateau, Prince Henry Cliff Walk, Duke & Duchess of York Lookout, Katoomba Cascades, Cliff Drive, Lilianfels Park, Echo Point, Three Sisters Track, Oreades Lookout, Honeymoon Bridge, Giant Stairway, Dardanelles Pass, Federal Pass, Leura Forest, Federla Pass, Fern Bower, Bridal Veil Lookout, Prince Henry Cliff Walk, Honeymoon Lookout, Oreades Lookout, Honeymoon Bridge, Giant Stairway, Dardanelles Pass, Federal Pass, Katoomba Falls, Furber Steps, Juliet's Balcony, Vaniman's Lookout, Scenic World

Date: 18/09/2022
From: Scenic World


Parking: Scenic World
Start PointScenic World
Finish Point: Scenic World
Region: Blue Mountains National Park

Route length: 13.8km
Time taken: 03:20
Average speed: 5.1km/h
Ascent: 901m
Descent: 903m

Points of Interest: Reid's Plateau, Echo Point, Three Sisters, Leura Forest, Furber Steps

Katoomba is home to many of the Blue Mountains' iconic walks but also its busiest tourist spots. Katoomba sits atop a plateau above the Kedumba and Jamison valleys meaning many of the walks from the town are either along the cliff tops or involve a steep descent into the valley via elaborately constructed stairways - something I was going to give a go today.

There are several sets of stairs linking the cliffs to various walking tracks and passes, from the Golden Stairs in the west to the Grand Staircase in the east at Wentworth Falls. The Giant Stairway, at the heart of today's hike, lies somewhere in the middle, near Echo Point.

I drove to Katoomba and parked (for free) at Scenic World, a curious outdoors theme park which is home to a cable car (the Scenic Skyway) and the world's steepest passenger railway - the 52-degree Scenic Railway. My plan was to walk the first half of the Prince Henry Cliff Walk to Echo Point and then descend below the cliffs into the rainforest beneath the Three Sisters before continuing east along Federal Pass.

Starting from the car park, the path follows a concrete track around the back of the Scenic World visitor building before continuing through the wooded hillside towards the first series of lookouts at Reid's Plateau. The three vantage points give the first real views of the spectacular Kedumba valley far below, including Katoomba Falls.
Katoomba Falls Lookout
Katoomba Falls
The Three Sisters
After a swift circuit of the Reid's Plateau area, the path follows the small Kedumba River north through the forest, until it reaches Katoomba Cascades, a picturesque set of waterfalls on the Kedumba River. The river can be crossed by a set of stepping stones or a small footbridge for times when the river is high.
Mount Solitary
The top of Katoomba Falls
Jamison Valley
Kedumba River
Katoomba Cascades
The Cliff Walk passes the Cascades and makes its way to the Eastern Skyway station where the Scenic World cable car terminates. The track heads eastwards along the top of the valley, passing several lookouts, all of which have much the same view of the Kedumba River and Mount Solitary. On this particular day, the Cliff Walk was closed while the authorities undertake essential upgrades, but has since reopened. The next port of call would be Echo Point.
The Cliff View Lookout is close to the Scenic Skyway station
Echo Point is a very busy place, most (if not all) of the tours from Sydney coincide at this location and disgorge hundreds of daily passengers. Some 2 million people visit this location every year but most simply wander to the lookout, take a selfie and then return to their allocated bus. Therefore, once you get away from Echo Point, the crowds diminish rapidly. The view of the Three Sisters from the lookout is the defining image of the Blue Mountains - one you'll no doubt find with a quick Google search.
Echo Point
The classic view from Echo Point
The Three Sisters
The Three Sisters - Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo
The Clifftop Walk leaves Echo Point along the Three Sisters Track which leads to the top of the Giant Stairway, one of several carved or constructed stairways that link the cliff rim to the rainforest below. For the adventurous, a short but hair-raising steep climb takes you down to Honeymoon Bridge, across a chasm and into a hollow under the first tower. Further climbing on the towers is prohibited due to their cultural significance to the Aboriginal traditional owners, the Gundungurra.
Lady Game Lookout at the top of the Giant Stairway
Meehni - the tallest of the Three Sisters
Descending the Giant Stairway
Honeymoon Bridge
The commonly told legend of the Three Sisters is that three sisters, Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo, lived in the Jamison Valley as members of the Katoomba tribe. They fell in love with three men from the neighbouring Nepean tribe, but the marriage was forbidden by tribal law. The brothers were not happy to accept this law and so decided to capture the three sisters. A major tribal battle ensued, and the sisters were turned to stone by an elder to protect them, but he was killed in the fighting and no one else could turn them back.

The 800 steps of the Giant Stairway are narrow and steep, protected from an imposing drop by a sturdy guardrail. They are pretty tough on your knees. The stairway was conceived in 1914 and construction began in 1916 but was deemed too expensive after only a quarter had been built. It was not until 1932 that work was re-commenced after lobbying by a local photographer. The Giant Stairway was opened by the Premier, the Hon. B.S.B. Stevens at the same time as the platform at Echo Point.
The Giant Stairway
The Giant Stairway
A gap in the trees reveals the cliffs of Sublime Point
The steps eventually reach a path in the midst of the trees of Leura Forest - the Dardenelles Pass. The Dardanelles Pass was opened around the same time as the Giant Stairway and was built to link the stairway to the other walking tracks in the forest. By turning right and heading downhill, I shortly reached the junction with Federal Pass provides the option to hike towards Scenic World or head in the opposite direction to Leura Forest (the northern part of Dardanelles Pass was closed when I visited due to track work, otherwise this provides the link between the bottom of the Giant Stairway and Leura Forest).
Dardanelles Pass
Dardanelles Pass meets Federal Pass
Leura Rainforest is home to the Southern Sassafras and the Black Olive Berry, both relics from the age of Gondwana - the 550 million-year-old supercontinent and predecessor to Pangea. The area is remarkably open with a few picnic benches dotted around in addition to a wooden rotunda. It was home to a popular tea house from the late 1800s though only the foundations remain today.
Leura Forest
Leura Forest
The rotunda in Leura Forest
From the clearing, Federal Pass crosses the Banksia Streamlet and begins to climb alongside Linda Creek, heading towards the maze of tracks around Leura Cascades. The wooden steps give way to some narrow metal steps which snake their way up through the bush alongside the creek. This section of Federal Pass was originally constructed in 1894 and some of the original fabric remains, including earth benching and stone steps. Otherwise, the rest has been upgraded.
Banksia Streamlet
Leura Forest
Federal Pass begins its climb out of the valley
Marguerite Cascades
Federal Pass at Linda Falls
Federal Pass
A narrow set of metal steps takes Federal Pass to the junction with the Amphitheatre Track before the path climbs further along Linda Creek to Jamison Lookout, overlooking the valley. A short distance further is the Prince Henry Cliff Walk and Solitary Restaurant. 
Federal Pass
Fern Bower
Jamison Lookout
While in the vicinity, I took the opportunity to visit Bridal Veil Lookout, one of the viewpoints for Bridal Veil Falls. The view is tremendous and, if you come at the right time, rainbows often form in the spray from the falls.
The Bridal Veil Lookout has a new fence
Bridal Veil Falls
Bridal Veil Falls
The Jamison Valley
I returned to the Prince Henry Cliff Walk which is one of the highlights of the Katoomba area. The path links the clifftops lookouts between Scenic World and Gordon Falls. This section passes Honeymoon Point and Tallawalla Lookouts before it reaches the top of the Giant Stairway behind the famed Three Sisters.
Honeymoon Point
Lady Carrington Lookout
Lady Game Lookout at the top of the Giant Stairway
Now, I probably did something unusual here. Instead of pressing onto Echo Point and Scenic World, I decided to descend the Giant Stairway once again, intent on following Federal Pass west this time to the Furber Steps so, back down the steps of the Giant Stairway I went.
The Giant Stairway
The Giant Stairway
The Giant Stairway
Federal Pass is one of the longer tracks in the Blue Mountains, joining the town of Leura in the east to Ruined Castle in the west via the base of the cliffs. It was originally built by the Katoomba community, from Leura Forest to Katoomba Falls, before being extended along an old horse-drawn coal tramway line.
Dardanelles Pass
Joining Federal Pass
Some of the recent storm damage along Federal Pass
Federal Pass
The Western route along Federal Pass is very pleasant, generally flat and out of the heat of the sun. It extends around the base of the Three Sisters and then to the Kedumba River, now below the cliffs and the cascades passed previously in the day. The river is crossed by Cooks Bridge then climbs a short distance to the bottom of the Furber Steps.
Federal Pass crossing the Kedumba River
Fenced tree on Federal Pass
The Furber Steps were constructed in 1908, to replace the bush pole steps of the original Federal Pass. The name 'bush poles' sounds precarious on its own, let alone down the side of a sandstone cliff. Thomas Furber, a Lands Department surveyor with an interest in conservation, was mainly responsible for obtaining a government grant of £140 for the work.
Furber Steps
Furber Steps
Furber Steps
Katoomba Falls
The middle terraces of Katoomba Falls
The Three Sisters
Furber Steps
Having used most of the vertical stairways, I have to say that the Furber Steps are my favourite as they have some of the best views as you make the climb (or descent) alongside Katoomba Falls along with ample opportunities to pause and soak up the scenery.
Jamison Valley framed by the Three Sisters and Mount Solitary
The Furber Steps
Below the Scenic Skyway
Katoomba Falls
The Furber Steps emerge close to Reid's Plateau where I had begun earlier in the day. From here it's an easy stroll back to Scenic World and the waiting car, concluding an epic day out in the mountains.

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