It was Easter weekend, so in a bid to avoid the crowds I made my way to Seathwaite bright and early to make sure that I could find a place to park along the farm lane. I noticed that a few more large boulders have appeared along the verges since my last visit a few years ago to deter any thoughtless parking and avoid inconveniencing the farmers who work the valley.
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| The Seathwaite campsite below Base Brown |
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| Seathwaite Farm |
A number of routes lead from Seathwaite towards Scafell Pike. I opted for one of the quieter routes, one that follows the course of Styhead Gill, keeping to the right of the Seathwaite valley (while looking South). For the most part, this path is easy to follow (boggy initially) and climbs very steadily until you reach a short, entertaining scramble, quickly lifting you up the mountainside and providing a tremendous view of Taylorgill Force. After the brief excitement, it levels out again and continues a gentle ascent alongside the stream to Styhead Tarn.
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| The River Derwent in Seathwaite |
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| Seathwaite |
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| The valley of Grains |
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| Starting the climb alongside Taylorgill Force |
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| The path forges a route up the rocks |
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| Looking down towards the valley below |
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| Taylorgill Force |
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| Taylorgill Force |
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| Above the waterfall |
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| Styhead Gill |
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| Approaching Styhead |
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| Crossing Styhead Gill |
Styhead Tarn is a very popular spot, the meeting point of several paths arriving from Borrowdale, Wasdale and, to some extent, Eskdale. It brings tourists to a handy spot for a sit-down, surrounded by fine mountain scenery before they make their onward travels, usually towards the high fells of Great Gable or, like me, Scafell Pike. It's also the location of a famous Mountain Rescue stretcher box, an iconic location and meeting point for many. The stretcher box is the perfect location to survey the Corridor Route ahead.
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| Styhead Tarn - the high fells lie behind, shrouded in cloud |
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| Styhead Tarn |
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| The surveying the Corridor Route |
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| You may be able to make out the route snaking up the left-hand side of the image |
The beginning of the route is hidden behind a rocky knoll, which needs to be climbed before the junction appears, a cairn marks this point. After a short descent, the climb begins, crossing the impressive opening of Skew Gill, a route up to Great End for those with a head for heights. Upon exiting Skew Gill, the path climbs steeply to the left rather than following the contours (as marks on the ground may suggest). After this, it becomes much clearer, allowing you to follow it with ease while keeping an eye on the unfolding views of Wasdale Head, Great Gable and the looming Lingmell.
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| Clouds linger on the Napes of Great Gable |
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| Skew Gill |
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| Looking back towards Styhead from the Corridor Route |
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| Climbing the Corridor Route |
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| Great Gill |
Another awkward gill crossing is required at the halfway stage, and a brief scramble is required to get down to it. The path crosses the gill without drama before continuing on, still climbing.
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| The Corridor Route |
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| Piers Gill and Lingmell |
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| Greta Gill |
After reaching Greta Gill, a choice can be made, either to bear left and attack Scafell Pike by scrambling up to the col between it and Broad Crag or by continuing on to Piers Gill and popping up at Lingmell Col. The second option is the continuation of the Corridor Route and passes across the mouth of the notorious Piers Gill.
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| Piers Gill |
Piers Gill is a huge ravine, carving a route from Lingmell Col all the way (eventually) to Wast Water. It's definitely not the place to get stranded unless you really are equipped and experienced. An internet search for Piers Gill reveals the top result being a page from Wasdale MRT - it's one of their problem areas. On a fine day like today, crossing the gill is easy, however, in poor weather, it can be mistaken for a route down from Lingmell Col to Wasdale, which it is not. There is no phone coverage in the gill and it's often too late before people realise their error. The mistake is generally made by people descending but that can't rule out erroneously wandering in while climbing as well.
After Piers Gill, the path climbs on, joining the motorway leading up from Wasdale, just above Lingmell Col. I wouldn't blame you in thinking you were nearly at the top, but Scafell Pike is a big mountain, there's still a 250m climb ahead of you, this time much steeper and rockier than anything experienced to this point.
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| The path from Wasdale |
Preceding this, however, is Lingmell. It's a quick climb from the main Scafell Pike path and you'll often find it deserted, despite its fine views. I sought out the summit in a bid to waste some time as the clouds were still hanging low across the fell tops.
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| Lingmell |
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| The view from Lingmell |
Having hung around on Lingmell for a short while, I retraced my steps back to Lingmell Col, the grassy depression that separates Lingmell from the other fells in the area. I joined the main hiker's path from Hollow Stones and made the climb into the mist on Scafell Pikes summit. Eventually, the large platform marking the summit comes into view and the steepness subsides.
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| Climbing into the mist |
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| The final climb to the summit |
Scafell Pike's summit is a little disappointing - it's busy (as you would expect) and the views are generally blocked out by the broad slopes on either side. Take a trip to the edge of this plateau and, only then, are you truly rewarded for your efforts (on a clear day, unlike today). A stony hop across the shattered rocks to the south-west reveals the imposing crags of Scafell and the notorious Broad Stand while heading to the south-eastern top presents a fine panorama of Eskdale and the high Broad Crag and Ill Crag to the north. It's a scene befitting Scafell Pike's lofty status. Sadly, today, Scafell Pike would be keeping its views to itself.
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| The summit of Scafell Pike |
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| The stony plateau that surrounds the summit platform |
A deep col separates Scafell Pike from Broad Crag - it's a bit dispiriting considering the efforts already expended to reach Scafell Pike. Still, it would be even more dispiriting to approach from the other direction with the summit standing so close yet apparently so very far away. By now, the clouds were beginning to lift as I pressed on along the highest ridge in the country.
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| A glimpse down towards the Corridor Route |
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| The col at Broad Crag |
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| The sun shines on Kirk Fell |
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| Little Narrowcove |
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| Scafell Pike |
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| Looking towards Styhead |
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| Broad Crag and Scafell Pike |
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| Esk Pike and Bowfell |
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| Great End |
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| Great End |
As the path begins to descend from the ridge you may well notice a few paths snaking their way up Great End. From here, it's a short 50m climb onto the summit plateau and is well worth it. I was lucky that my time on Great End coincided with the best of the weather for the day with some breaks in the clouds bringing some much-needed sunlight into the valley.
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| Atop Great End |
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| The northern panorama from Great End |
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| Sprinkling Tarn and Glaramara |
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| The view along Seathwaite |
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| Clouds over the northern Lake District |
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| Glaramara |
Great End does not share the summit characteristics of Scafell Pike or Ill Crag. Gone are the tumbled rocks and broken boulders, replaced with a luxuriant, flat turf. Two summits are evident, with the higher of the two overlooking Borrowdale.
I returned from the summit and made my way down to Esk Hause, the highest of Lakeland's passes. From here begins a long descent all the way back to Seathwaite following the route of Grains Gill. The path passes the imposing cliffs of Great End before it turns towards Seathwaite.
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| Scafell Pike finally clears of cloud |
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| Esk Pike over Esk Hause |
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| Esk hause |
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| A small sheep bield in Calf Cove |
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| Coldkeld Knotts and Esk Pike |
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| Lower Esk Hause |
Ruddy Gill remains beautiful, far down into the valley in which it falls. We were swiftly leaving the high mountains and rocks, replacing them with farmland and grass. The route alongside Grains Gill is one of the most-trodden in the Lakes but that does mean it is well-built and easy to follow.
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| Great End |
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| Great Gully |
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| Ruddy Gill |
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| Seathwaite, Borrowdale and the northern fells |
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| Seathwaite |
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| Stockley Bridge |
I eventually reached Stockley Bridge, the famous decision point for people choosing either Grains Gill or Styhead Gill for their ascent. Beyond Stockley Bridge, the pitched path gives way to a stony track leading to Seathwaite Farm and back to the diligently waiting car.
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