All The Gear But No Idea: Furber Steps, Federal Pass, Giant Stairway & the Three Sisters

Furber Steps, Federal Pass & The Three Sisters 31-10-2021

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Route: Scenic World, Vaniman's Lookout, Juliet's Balcony, Underfalls Walk, Furber Steps, Federal Pass, Dardanelles Pass, Giant Stairway, Lady Game Lookout, Oreades Lookout, Three Sisters Track, Echo Point, Prince Henry Cliff Walk, Lady Darley Lookout, Cliff View Lookout, Katoomba Cascades, Reid's Plateau, Scenic World

Date: 31/10/2021
From: Scenic World

Parking: Scenic World
Start Point: Scenic World
Finish Point: Scenic World
Region: Blue Mountains

Route length: 7.8km
Time taken: 02:45
Average speed: 2.8km/h
Ascent: 395m
Descent: 382m

Points of Interest: Furber Steps, Federal Pass, Giant Stairway, Echo Point

I was showing a friend around the Blue Mountains recently and no trip to the Blue Mountains is truly complete until you've tackled one of the steep stairways that link the clifftops to the walking tracks in the valley below.

There are four sets in total from the Golden Stairs in the west to the Grand Stairway at Wentworth Falls, all dating to around the Victorian time when tourism in the Blue Mountains really kicked off. Today, we'd be tackling the middle two; the Furber Steps and Giant Stairway.

We drove to Katoomba and parked (for free) at Scenic World, a curious outdoors theme park that is home to a cable car (the Scenic Skyway) and the world's steepest passenger railway - the 52-degree Scenic Railway (train enthusiasts may get excitable determining whether it is, in fact, a true railway or not). A path is tucked away behind the main Scenic World building that leads off into the Blue Mountains playground and would be our route for the morning.

Almost immediately after leaving Scenic World, the path stops at Vaniman's Lookout which has a prime view of Katoomba Falls, the western-most of the tall waterfalls that fall from the plateau to the valley below. The path descends further with another lookout, Juliet's Balcony, having an equally good view of the falls.

Katoomba Falls

A switchback in the path leads further downhill to the Underfalls Walk track, a short out-and-back hike to the base of the first of Katoomba Falls' twin cascades, where the Kedumba River is thrown over the 300m cliffs. The short diversion is worth the modest amount of effort and time as it takes you perilously close to the lip of the waterfall.

The Scenic Skyway

Juliet's Balcony lookout

Katoomba Falls

Below Katoomba Falls - accessed along the Underfalls Walk

Looking down the Kedumba River valley to Mount Solitary

Mount Solitary

Katoomba Falls

Witches Leap

The Furber Steps begin from a junction with the Underfalls Walk. They begin with a steady descent to Lynes Point, which has the best view of Katoomba Falls, before descending very steeply into the valley below, hugging the cliffs and passing beneath vast overhangs of sandstone. They are sensational but quite short-lived.

The view of Katoomba Falls from Lynes Point

Descending the Furber Steps

The Furber Steps were constructed in 1908, to replace the bush pole steps of the original Federal Pass. The name 'bush poles' sounds precarious on its own, let alone down the side of a sandstone cliff. Thomas Furber, a Lands Department surveyor with an interest in conservation, was mainly responsible for obtaining a government grant of £140 for the work. The photo below was taken on the completion of the project. While the vegetation has grown back, the amazing feat of construction can be clearly seen.

The Furber Steps, shortly after they were completed - you'll see the modern photo later in the post

The Furber Steps

Furner Steps - after the stepped section

Nowadays, the Furber Steps join Federal Pass partway between the Scenic Station and Katoomba Falls View. If a climb out of the valley fills you with dread, I'd highly recommend using Furner Steps to descend and Scenic Railway to travel back up again (fees apply).

The bottom of the Furber Steps at Federal Pass

The Federal Pass is one of the longer tracks in the Blue Mountains, joining the town of Leura in the east to Ruined Castle in the west via the base of the cliffs. It was originally built by the Katoomba community, from Leura Forest to Katoomba Falls, before being extended along an old horse-drawn coal tramway line. From the bottom of Furber Steps, we'd be hiking the original section, between Katoomba Falls and the Three Sisters.

Federal Pass is a very pleasant route, generally flat and out of the heat of the sun. It crosses the Kedumba River then extends through the bush to the tip of the Three Sisters ridge where it meets Dardanelles Pass, a path built to link the Giant Stairway to the Federal Pass. Federal Pass actually dips down into the rainforest from here while Dardanelles Pass cuts a level course, both meeting nearly 2km later. The Dardanelles Pass was opened around the same time as the Giant Stairway, built to link the stairway to the other walking tracks in the forest.

Federal Pass at Kedumba River

A landslide creates a gap in the trees

The branch for Dardanelles Pass and the Giant Stairway

Inscription at Dardanelles Pass

Mount Solitary

The Giant Stairway

The 800 steps of the Giant Stairway are narrow and steep, protected from an imposing drop by a sturdy guardrail. The stairway was conceived in 1914 and construction began in 1916 but was deemed too expensive after only a quarter had been built. It was not until 1932 that work was re-commenced after lobbying by a local photographer. The Giant Stairway was opened by the Premier, the Hon. B.S.B. Stevens at the same time as the platform at Echo Point.

Climbing the Giant Stairway

The Giant Stairway

Looking across towards the Wentworth Falls area

The Giant Stairway hidden in the shadows

Close to the top of the stairs is Honeymoon Bridge, a short bridge across a chasm that links the tallest of the Three Sisters to the main ridge. Further climbing on the towers is prohibited due to their cultural significance with the Aboriginal traditional owners, the Gundungurra Nation.

Honeymoon Bridge

The cliffs below Echo Point

The Giant Stairway eventually emerges at Oreades Lookout, directly behind Meehni, the tallest of the Three Sisters.

The commonly told legend of the Three Sisters is that three sisters, Meehni, Wimlah and Gunnedoo, lived in the Jamison Valley as members of the Katoomba tribe. They fell in love with three men from the neighbouring Nepean tribe, but the marriage was forbidden by tribal law. The brothers were not happy to accept this law and so decided to capture the three sisters. A major tribal battle ensued, and the sisters were turned to stone by an elder to protect them, but he was killed in the fighting and no one else could turn them back.

From the lookout, the track continues a short distance to Echo Point and the Queen Elizabeth Lookout - arguably the most popular of all the lookouts in the Blue Mountains.

Meehni, the tallest of the Three Sisters

Oreades Lookout

Echo Point is usually a busy place. Under normal circumstances, most (if not all) of the tours from Sydney coincide at this location and disgorge hundreds of daily passengers though it was much quieter today. Obviously, Covid has had its effect, however, in the year we've been in Australia the lookout has been expanded and upgraded to create more room for visitors. The view of the Three Sisters from the lookout is the defining image of the Blue Mountains - one you'll no doubt find with a quick Google search.

The Three Sisters

Panorama from Echo Point

Looking across to the Ruined Castle

Queen Elizabeth Lookout

Mount Solitary and Narrowneck Plateau

Heading west away from Echo Point, the Prince Henry Cliff Walk descends several flights of steps until it reaches the impressive Lady Darley's Lookout. A set of narrow metal steps descend an outcrop of rock with an imposing view of the valley. A handful of other lookouts are passed before reaching the Scenic Skyway East Station where the Scenic World cable car terminates.

Lady Darling Lookout

The Prince Henry Clifftop Track

Mount Solitary

Cliff View Lookout

A view of the Furber Steps

The Scenic Skyway and Scenic World

The Cliff Walk does a loop under the Katoomba Cascades, a picturesque set of waterfalls on the Kedumba River which sits just below a road and park. The river can be crossed by a set of stepping stones or a small footbridge (presumably for times when the flow is high). A last recommended port of call is Reids Plateau, a short circuit of a sandstone outcrop with several viewpoints of the valley, including Orphan Rock. From here, it's a short hike back to the car park at Scenic World.