The Royal National Park Coast Track - The Royal National Park
The Coast Track 14-11-2020
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Route: Otford Station, Otford Lookout, Cliff Track, Garrawarra Ridge Trail, Coast Track, Werrong Lookout, Werrong Point, Palm Jungle, Figure Eight Gully, Burning Palms Beach, South Era, North Era, Thelma Head, Little Garie Beach, Garie Beach, Garie North Head, Curra Moor, Curracurrong Creek, Providential Point, Wattamolla Beach, Wattamolla Dam, Little Marley Beach, Marley Beach, Marley Head, Wedding Cake Rock, The Waterrun, The Balconies, Bundeena Date: 14/11/2020 From: Otford
Parking: N/A Start Point: Otford Finish Point: Bundeena Region: Royal National Park
Route length: 17.5 miles (28.1km) Time taken: 07:32 Average speed: 2.5mph Ascent: 771m Descent: 940m
Points of Interest: Palm Jungle, Burning Palms, Garie Beach, Eagle Rock, Wattamolla Beach, Marley Head, Wedding Cake Rock, The Balconies
This is quite a long post but it is worth the read. The Coast Track is the jewel in Royal National Parks glittering crown, a 26km trek along the ever-changing coastline of the national park, passing almost all the most famous and instagrammable sights such as Eagle Rock, Wattamolla Lagoon and Wedding Cake Rock. It's often recommended to do this as a two-day hike, stopping at the North Era campsite but it is very achievable and enjoyable as a day hike. It just requires a little bit of planning and an early start.
The hike makes use of the expansive public transport network across Sydney, using the train station at Otford and the ferry at Bundeena at either end. The ferry runs an hourly timetable between Bundeena and Cronulla, ending at 7pm in the summer and 6pm in the winter. If hiking from south to north, reaching the ferry in time is essential, hence an early start.
After some deliberation, I decided south to north is the better option of the two. While the overall ascent during the hike is similar in both directions, heading north from Otford means you tackle a steep section through the Palm Jungle in descent and early in the hike, saving your legs for trials later in the day. Not wanting to miss the ferry, I caught a train that arrived at Otford at 0730, along with several others who appeared to be undertaking the same hike - mostly trail runners.
From Otford station, a very steep road leads out of the valley to the road and Otford Lookout which is next to the start of the Coast Track. While the Coast Track does run the entire length of the national park, it is actually a collection of several named tracks, linked together. The first section, from the lookout, is the Cliff Track and Garrawarra Ridge Trail.
Otford lookout
The beginning of the Coast Track at Otford
The Cliff Track does as it says on the tin, hugging the top of the cliffs before it enters the shade of the gum and Angophora trees. The Cliff Track rises and falls as it makes its way through the trees, passing a turn off for Werrong Beach (Royal National Park's only nudist beach) before becoming the Garrawarra Ridge Trail, a slightly wider gravel track. Before long, I found the signed turnoff for the Coast Track which would descend right down to the sands of Burning Palms Beach.
Looking north along the coast
The Cliff Track
The Cliff Track climbs to Garrawarra Ridge
On the Garrawarra Ridge Trail
The narrow path heads through the trees and ferns until it reaches Werrong Lookout, an opening in the bush that provides a view of Werrong Beach and the steep slopes above it (also known as Hell Hole). The rock platform at the lookout is small and there is no fence, so watch your footing close to the edge. After the lookout, the track descends steeply into the Palm Jungle.
Werrong Lookout
Hell Hole and the tiny Werrong Beach
The Coast Track descends around Werrong Point
Descending to the Palm Jungle
The rock shelf home to Figure Eight Pool
The Palm Jungle is exactly that, a spectacular jungle of palm trees. A popular trek in the national park is the Palm Jungle Loop, which incorporates this section of track and more of the Garrawarra Ridge Trail. The Palm Jungle is directly above the popular Figure Eight Pools, a shoreline shelf of rock where the wave action has created an almost perfect 'figure 8' rock pool. The influence of Instagram has made this an exceptionally popular place but it can be hazardous and is only accessible at low tide. Even then, large swells can easily wash over the shelf. Reaching Figure Eight Pools is a hike in itself and best saved for its own trip.
The Palm Jungle
With little warning the track emerges from the palm jungle into the open, winding along an area of rolling grass below the slopes of Garrawarra Ridge. It crosses a few small streams before making its way to Burning Palms Beach. This stretch of the coast, between Burning Palms and Little Garie, is home to a number of ramshackle beach shacks. They are a result of Great Depression-era holidaymakers looking for a cheap escape from the city. Initially, they paid two shillings a week to erect tents and rough bark huts but, later, they built permanent cabins.
Garrawarra Ridge
The Palm Jungle
The southern coastline of Royal National Park
The famed Sea Cliff Bridge
The slopes of Garrawarra Ridge
Figure Eight Pool
Burning Palms and Semi Detached Point
Burning Palms Beach
For years, the shacks have been at risk of demolition but, in 2012, the shacks were finally listed on the NSW State Heritage Register, a move supported by the NPWS and the 'shackies'. They continue to pay rent to the NPWS, but the shacks remain in family ownership.
The Coast Track at Burning Palms
Burning Palms Beach
The track winds among the shacks above the beach before climbing a low headland into South Era where there is another, smaller beach and several more shacks. Another headland awaits, this time separating South Era and North Era where there is another beach and a rustic campsite (the location for camping if doing this hike across two days). A stiff climb over Thelma Head awaits those leaving North Era.
Semi Detached Point
South Era (or just Era) Beach
Looking back at South Era and Semi Detached Point
North Era and Themla Head
The path over Thelma Head has recently been re-laid with stone steps but it is still a fairly steep climb. The reward at the top is a sweeping view along the coast. The steps descend to another settlement of shacks at Little Garie before the Coast Track path cuts across the bottom of the cliffs to the large Garie Beach.
North Era from Thelma Head
The new steps which climb Thelma Head
The view of Garie Beach from Thelma Head
Shacks at Little Garie
The shoreline path linking Little Garie to Garie Beach
There are two theories of the origins of the Garie name, the main is that Garie is an Aboriginal word meaning "sleepy". The name could also be a deviation of the name of a bushranger called Geaty, who was known to have camped in the area.
Garie North Head
Garie Beach
The Coast Track continues along the length of the beach. At the north end, it enters some scrubby bush before beginning a steep climb up the tall cliffs. There are several spots along the way with a superb view of Garie Beach and the coast. After a 100m climb to the top, you will join the Curra Moors Track.
Garie North Head
Thelma Head - the new track can be seen snaking down the hillside
Garie Beach
The Curra Moors Track
The Curra Moors Track
The new metal walkway offers a respite from climbing and some easy hiking but offers no shelter from the sun; there is no shade and it is very exposed for a few kilometres. As with any Aussie bushwalk, sunscreen and hats are a necessity. It does, however, have a superb view along the coast as you make your way towards one of the highlights of the hike, Eagle Rock.
The track crosses Curra Moor on its way towards Curracurrong Creek
Eagle Rock forms the backdrop to the sensational Curracurrong Creek, an 80m waterfall that dispenses directly into the Pacific Ocean, one of only a handful of waterfalls in the world that fall into the sea. The best view of the waterfall and Eagle Rock can be found a short distance off the main track, below a large sandstone overhang. There is no fence so take care but the view is worth seeking it out.
Bare cliff tops along Curra Moor
Looking towards the cliffs north of Curra Moor
Curra Brook
Cliffs at Curra Moor
Eagle Rock
Curracurrong waterfall and Eagle Rock
Curracurrong Waterfall
Curracurrong Creek at the top of the waterfall
Curracurrong Creek
Eagle Rock
Eagle Rock
I used the clear waters of Curracurrong Creek to filter and refill the water in my pack (I use a Sawyer Squeeze for its simplicity) - it was approaching the early afternoon and things were beginning to heat up. I crossed Curracurrong Creek and continued northwards along the coast.
The path continues to make its way through the heath until it reaches and crosses Curracurrang Gully, another small creek that has formed its own pretty inlet. Shortly after crossing the creek, the track emerges from the bush onto the bare sandstone clifftops that are synonymous with the northern areas of the national park. Eventually, I reached a junction with a large gravel track that leads to Wattamolla Beach. There is the option here to hug the coast and visit Providential Point Lookout, as I duly did. The point has a lovely view across the bay.
Curracurrong Creek
Looking south to Curra Moor
The view west across Royal National Park
Descending towards Curracurrang Gully
Curracurrang Gully
Curracurrang Gully meets the ocean
Curracurrang Gully inlet
The odd marker notes the route along the cliff tops
Curracurrang inlet
Cliffs near Providential Point
Providential Point
Providential Point
Wattamolla Beach is one of the prettiest beaches in the national park, if not the wider Sydney area. While small, it stands in idyllic surroundings with Coote Creek forming a large, shallow lagoon behind the beach. There is also a beautiful waterfall to draw your attention (jumping from the top of the waterfall into the lagoon is discouraged). I did make the mistake of trying to continue the Coast Track by crossing the beach (the Providential Point Lookout path will lead you this way). In fact, the Coast Track continues its journey north from the Wattamolla Beach car park. Again, there are toilet facilities here but no drinking water.
Wattamolla Beach
Wattamolla Lagoon
Wattamolla Waterfall
Wattamolla Lagoon
Wattamolla Creek
I crossed Coote Creek above the Wattamolla waterfall and started a long, gradual climb back into the bush, away from the beach. The path passes Wattamolla Dam, a low sandstone dam that has created a nice swimming hole. If the beach is too crowded, you may find some solitude here. I passed by as the Coast Track winds its way up the hill.
Wattamolla Dam
The Coast Track winds up the headland north of Wattamolla
Distant views over Royal National Park
The Coast Track
The track here actually takes you some 500m inland, away from cliffs as it climbs. You will eventually return to the clifftops but make sure you bear right at the Little Marley Fire Trail, following a sign for the 'Coast Track' and 'Little Marley-Bundeena'. Once back at the cliffs, the route continues its journey north, gradually descending to Little Marley Beach with the view opening up across to Marley Head.
Views towards Marley Head
Cliffs above Marley Head
Little Marley, Big Marley and Marley Head
Little Marley
A view across the bay to Marley Head
Little Marley is another beautiful quiet beach, set within a shallow bay. Hiking is the only way to reach this beach (unless you own a boat) so you will often find it empty. The Coast Track crosses the beach and then makes a short trip to Marley Beach, the larger of the two beaches in the bay. In fact, it is one of the largest beaches in the Sydney area, notable for the expansive sand dunes that lie behind the beach.
Little Marley Beach
Little Marley Beach and Marley Head
Little Marley Beach
Marley Head
Big Marley Beach
Marley Creek
Once across Marley Beach, the final significant climb of the day awaits. Steps and then a metal track leads the way up Marley Head which has a superb view of the two beaches to the south. Before long I reached the wide gravel track of Big Marley Fire trail - if you are flagging by this point you can use this to make your way back to Bundeena. Otherwise, bear right to continue along the cliffs. Before long you will reach Wedding Cake Rock.
Big Marley Beach
Panorama from Marley Head
The pure white rock stands out against the harder sandstone of the coastal cliffs - its sharp edges and deep cracks giving it a unique shape, like a slice of cake perched high above the pounding ocean.
Wedding Cake Rock
The white colour is caused by iron leaching, which makes the sandstone layers dangerously soft, prone to cracking and at very high risk of collapse. In early 2015, Wedding Cake Rock saw a sudden spike in popularity with visitor numbers rising sharply from 2,000 per month to over 10,000. Instagram has been cited as the cause for the growth in visitors, with users going to the landmark to take pictures on top of it, often while performing a stunt. The spike in popularity became concerning for the National Park Service - the increase in visitors have the potential to tip it. Subsequently, the site was closed off in May 2015.
After the closure, a geotechnical assessment of the rock was conducted to determine the stability of the landmark. The study found, to the surprise of many, that the formation was not only unstable, but was certain to collapse at any time within the next ten years, with the entire structure being described as "precariously balancing on the edge of the cliff, and severely undercut", seeming to be only upheld by very few pieces of debris from a recent major fracture below the rock. You can see this in the photos below. A large fence now deters visitors from standing on the rock.
The precarious position of Wedding Cake Rock
Once past Wedding Cake Rock the path maintains a northeasterly course through the bush until it reaches the Waterrun where a small stream meets the sea. The erosive forces of wind, waves and floods have shaped the lower ravine into a flat shelf which I imagine looks fairly impressive after some heavy rain.
The bleached rock along the cliff tops
Heading towards the Balconies
The Waterrun
The final port of call before heading to Bundeena is The Balconies, where the cliff top has been eroded been into a series of irregular jagged layers of sandstone that jut out from the cliff. These get more impressive as you move north along the coast. The track heads back into Bundeena from the Balconies, following a fire trail to the small car park on the edge of the village.
The Balconies
The Bundeena fire trail
Bundeena Beach
In the end, I arrived at the ferry wharf at 1530 - plenty of time to spare before the small ferry was due to leave for Cronulla. If you are feeling truly energetic, you can extend the Coast Track from the Balconies to Jibbon Head - an additional 2-3km to the official Coast Track route. Then you can truly claim to have conquered the Royal National Park coast.
Excellent report and photos, Dave - looks like a great day's walking.
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