Cockle Creek & Cowan Creek - The Gibberagong & Warrimoo Tracks - Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

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Route: Bobbin Head, Mangrove Boardwalk, Gibberagong Track, Rainforest Track, Gibberagong Track, Murra Side Trail, North Turramurra, Sphinx Memorial, Sphinx Track, Warrimoo Track, Cowan Creek, Empire Marina, Bobbin Head

Date: 15/08/2020
From: Bobbin Head

Parking: Bobbin Head
Start Point: Bobbin Head
Finish Point: Empire Marina
Region: Ku-ring-gai National Park

Route length: 8.1 miles (13.0km)
Time taken: 03:50
Average speed: 2.1 mph
Ascent: 321m
Descent: 310m

Points of Interest: Mangrove boardwalk, axe-grinding grooves, Sphinx Memorial

Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park lies just 25km north of Sydney's CBD. The park gets its name from the Guringai Aboriginal people who were long thought to be the traditional owners of the area with the word Chase meaning the area is open, unfenced bush. The national park is the third oldest in Australia (Royal National Park to the south of Sydney being the oldest) having been initially declared in 1894.

There are many hiking trails through the national park, this one involves a series of tracks along two of the river valleys which flow together at Bobbin Head, a large waterside area with a car park that is popular with boaters, paddlers and hikers, like me. The anticlockwise circuit would follow Cockle Creek before crossing the watershed and returning along the much larger Cowan Creek.

Bobbin Head is a historic recreation area that is still popular today and suits the needs of many people. At the centre of the Bobbin Head area is the old ‘Bobbin Inn’, built in the 1930s – it is now the park information centre and café.

The beginning of the Gibberagong Track

Cockle Creek

The track along Cockle Creek begins at the southern end of the Bobbin Head car park. Its official name is the Gibberagong Track, translated as 'place of rocks' due to the abundance of rocks in the creek, which you'll see later. The first part of the track follows Cockle Creek, which crosses a footbridge before heading along a wooden boardwalk through a dense patch of mangroves, getting you up close to the complex saltwater ecosystem.

Cockle Creek

The track crosses the creek via a suspension bridge

A boardwalk weaves through the mangroves

After passing through the mangroves, the path climbs a series of sandstone steps, reaching a site of Aboriginal interest a short distance later. On one side of the path is a curious carving of a person, which appears to be wearing a skirt - perhaps representing a European woman. On the opposite side of the track are a series of axe-grinding grooves and a shallow bowl, used to collect rainwater.

The carved figure

Axe grinding grooves

A short distance after the carvings is a brief diversion, away from the Gibberagong Track. While not necessary for this hike, the diversion leads to a beautiful slice of a well-protected piece of rainforest. The rainforest is distinct from many of the dry eucalypt forests that dominate the area and is a safe haven for many birds that frequent the area. In short, it's a worthwhile addition to the hike.

The rainforest

The rainforest

The rainforest

Beyond the diversion, the Gibeeragong Track follows Cockle Creek, occasionally by the edge of the water but mostly on a slightly elevated path. The path ducks and weaves around trees, bush and sandstone outcrops for a number of kilometres until it reaches the Gibberagong waterhole, a shady spot where Cockle Creek is wide and shallow.

Cockle Creek saltmarsh

Cockle Creek

Looking back along the Gibberagong Track

Cockle Creek

Cockle Creek

The Gibberagong Track

Cockle Creek

Cockle Creek

The Gibberagong Track

Cockle Creek waterhole

Cockle Creek waterhole

The Gibberagong Track continues after the waterhole but I opted to deviate, leaving the main path for a linking trail (the Murrua Side Trail) which climbs out of the valley and into the small, wealthy suburb of North Turramurra. The suburbs name is an Aboriginal word meaning 'big hill' or 'high place', describing the area's location above Cockle Creek and Cowan Water.

Murra Side Trail

Murra Side Trail

At the north end of the suburb is one of the many entrances to Ku-ring-gai Chase (the road I drove down to reach Bobbin Head) but, next to the entrance booths is the Sphinx Memorial and Sphinx Track. The Sphinx Memorial, as its name suggests, is a 1.5 m high replica of the Great Sphinx of Egypt. It was carved out of sandstone in the 1920s by William Shirley, a returned soldier, in memory of fallen comrades. The Sphinx took one and a half years to complete. Shirley died in 1929, leaving an unusual legacy in stone to be contemplated by all who pass through the area.

The Sphinx Memorial

Sphinx Memorial

The Sphinx Track provides the link between the Sphinx Memorial and Cowan Water - Cowan Water is a large, tidal river. The Sphinx Track leads to the Warrimoo Track which follows Cowan Water back towards Bobbin Head. 

Sphinx Track

Crossing a creek on the Sphinx Track

Ku-ring-gai National Park

The track undulates along the side of the hill close to Cowan Water crossing a few small gullies before passing along a long natural sandstone wall and below a notable sandstone overhang. From here, the track then starts to head downhill to a fairly open grassy salt marsh. After the salt marsh, the Warrimoo Track continues on, passing more sandstone walls, lush gullies and pleasant views of Cowan Water.

Cowan Creek

Cowan Creek

Cowan Creek

Cowan Creek saltmarsh

Warrimoo Track

A small creek joining Cowan Creek

Cowan Water

Warrimoo Track

Warrimoo Track

The Warrimoo Track

Eventually, the path leads through a tall wooded forest to the Empire Marina, a boat mooring area close to Bobbin Head. The small cafe is the perfect place to grab a drink before returning to the Bobbin Head car park.

Cowan Water

Empire Marina

Cowan Water