Tomaree Head from Tomaree Lodge

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Route: Shoal Bay Road, Tomaree Track, Ocean Rocks Track, Tomaree Track, Tomaree Head

Date: 04/07/2020

From: Shoal Bay

Parking: Shoal Bay Road

Start Point: Tomaree Lodge

Finish Point: Tomaree Lodge

Region: Tomaree National Park

Route length:  1.8 miles (2.9km)

Time taken: 01:04

Average speed: 1.7mph

Ascent: 170m

Descent: 170m

Points of Interest: Tomaree Head

We recently spent a long weekend camping in the Munmorah State Conservation Area, a modest-sized national park some 2 1/2 hours north of Sydney. The thought of camping in the winter brought looks of horror from my Aussie co-workers but, truth be told, it's no different to camping in the UK in the spring or early autumn with cold nights and pleasant, sunny days.

From the campsite, we decided to make a further 2-hour drive north, through the Australian variety of Newcastle (complete with suburbs Wallsend, Hexham and Gateshead for that authentic, north-east vibe) until we reached Nelson Bay.

The Nelson Bay area is home to a variety of pristine, white beaches and interesting domed peaks, Tomaree Head being the most impressive and the only one with a notable track to the summit. After spending a morning trying (unsuccessfully) to cross a sand spit at Fingal Bay, we had lunch on the beach at Shoal Bay, waiting for the weather to clear. And clear it did. By the time we were ready to tackle the modest mountain, the sun was out in force.

The sparkling Fingal Beach

Fingal Beach - just as the clouds rolled in

Stephens Peak and Tomaree Head

Fingal Spit

Tomaree Head over Shoal Bay

Shoal Bay

There's a large free car park at the foot of the hill and, thankfully, we were able to find a space without any difficulty (sometimes it can be a challenge). After following the road a short distance around the bay, the Tomaree Track starts close to the entrance to the nearby Tomaree Lodge (a former military hospital turned care home).

Shoal Bay Road with Tomaree Head looming

Tomaree Lodge on Shoal Bay

Tomaree Head

From the moment the Tomaree Track begins, we started climbing. First among the low coastal shrubs and then up into the woods which dominate the hillside. The track is mostly paved thanks to its popularity but be warned, this becomes very slippery in the wet. We opted for a short diversion along the Ocean Rocks Track (which ultimately leads to the east side of the hill, overlooking the ocean) before doubling back to the beginning of a steeper section of the track.

The neighbouring Stephens Peak

Muted views from the Ocean Rocks Track

Ocean Rocks Track

Starting the big climb to the summit

Though steep, the main climb to the summit is along a series of metal walkways and steps which makes the going much easier. One section of the metal walkway opens up with a precipitous view over Nelson Bay and the interesting hills of the Tomaree National Park. Eventually, we emerged at the top of the hill.

Sara starts up the steps

Views over Shoal Bay

Metal walkways lead to the summit

Tomaree Mountain stands proudly at 161m above the bay. The two lookouts on the summit provide breathtaking views of the hills, bays and beaches to the south while views from the northern lookout extend over Yacaaba Head and the mouth of Karuah River. In between is the vast expanse of the Pacific Ocean.

Views over Tomaree National Park towards Fingal Bay

Zenith Beach and Stephens Peak

The hilltop played a pivotal role in World War II, housing an air warning radar set. The fortifications that remain on the headland were important parts of the coastal defence network around strategic facilities from Port Stephens to Jervis Bay (south of Sydney).

Sensational colours in the sea

Port Stephens Lighthouse on Shark Island

Tomaree Head was one of the first sites selected in an air force project to protect Australia with a ring of radar stations around the continent. The threat of war from Japan was looming, the project was launched with a special survey to select three sites. It was essential to put the available radar sets to work in the parts of Australia requiring them most urgently.

The entrance to Port Stephens, overlooked by Yacaaba Head

Yacaaba Head and Cabbage Tree Island

The recommendation by the Services was to locate the available radar sets to protect the vital Newcastle-Sydney-Port Kembla industrial region with Tomaree Head forming the most northerly placement.

The sensational panorama from Tomaree Head

We spent a while on top of the hill, partly due to the views and partly because it's peak migration season for Humpback Whales and we were able to see several out to sea thanks to a pair of binoculars. There were also a number of dolphins splashing around closer to the shoreline.

Searching for whales

Zenith Beach

All good things must come to an end, however, and we had to leave Tomaree Head. We returned to the car by way of the summit track, hiked in reserve this time, down the steps back to the main track. Though it would have been nice to stay longer, the summit area was actually quite busy and we had that 2 1/2 hour drive back to the campsite to contend with.

The metal walkway leading too and from the summit

Descending the summit track

It had turned into a beautiful afternoon

Before long we were at the bottom of the hill and returning to the car. If you're ever in the Port Stephens area I would highly recommend climbing Tomaree Head, the views really are worth the effort.