The Grand Canyon Track - Blue Mountains National Park

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Route: Neates Glen, Grand Canyon Track, Evans Lookout, Evans Lookout Road, Neates Glen

Date: 08/03/2020
From: Neates Glen

Parking: Neates Glen
Start Point: Neates Glen
Finish Point: Evans Lookout
Region: Blue Mountains National Park

Route length: 4.3 miles (6.9km)
Time taken: 02:00
Average speed: 1.2 mph
Ascent: 643m
Descent: 616m

Points of Interest: Neates Glen, Greaves Creek, Evans Lookout

Setting out from Evans Lookout, the Grand Canyon Track is one of the most dramatic and popular circuits in the Blue Mountains. While not as grand as the Grand Canyon itself, the sheer sandstone cliffs of Greaves Creek make for a spectacular outing. Evans Lookout can be found near Blackheath, one of the small towns that line the high plateau which forms the popular tourist areas of the Blue Mountains, including Katoomba and the Three Sisters.

There is no right or wrong way to do the Grand Canyon Track, both routes involve descending into the canyon and climbing back out again. However, an anti-clockwise circuit means the steeper section is done in descent and the finale at Evans Lookout is saved for the end. Sadly, the weather, described as 'a shower or two', looked more like rain all day by the time we arrived at the parking area.

We began our descent from the Neates Glen parking area, following a zig-zagging path that makes its way down into the rainforest, passing towering ferns and dramatic overhanging rocks. It wasn't long before we encountered our first creek, Neates Glen (which gives its name to the parking area) which tumbles down a series of pretty cascades.

Leaving the Neates Glen car park

Descending the winding staircase into the canyon

The tiny Neates Glen Creek

Neates Glen creek

Looking back up Neates Glen

The path descends further still, passing some outstanding viewpoints as we approached the floor of the valley. A final set of wooden steps brought us down to the banks of Greaves Creek. This is the Rotunda, an open area where the cliff has been carved out to form an overhang, over the sandy banks of the stream.

Greaves Creek

The dramatic surroundings of the Grand Canyon track

Greaves Creek

The path makes its way through some dense vegetation

Greaves Creek

The Grand Canyon

Sandstone overhangs are common along the path

The Rotunda

The Rotunda

Greaves Creek carves a winding route through the sandstone of the Blue Mountains en route to Govetts Creek before ultimately flowing to the Grose River and the mighty Nepean. It is the erosive power of the creek which forms the huge cliffs of the Grand Canyon. Now in the depths of the canyon, the path delves deeper, following the creek downstream.

Greaves Creek

Entering the cave-tunnel

We followed the trail along the cliffs to an open area surrounded by trees, ferns and running water - made all the more atmospheric thanks to the drizzly weather. After squeezing through a dark tunnel, the path opens into another large area surrounded by huge boulders and a cascading waterfall. The path passes behind the waterfall (if it's flowing) and continues on its way.

The waterfall

Sara negotiating the path behind the waterfall

Following the path along Greaves Creek

The waterfall

Grand Canyon

Though the track stays relatively level, the river disappears into the depths of the narrowest part of the canyon, many metres below. The canyon here is a true slot canyon with the path perched on a ledge above the creek. Eventually, the canyon opens up again and we began a steep descent down some wooden steps, still following the course of Greaves Creek which gets thrown over a series of waterfalls, hidden among the plants and trees.

Entering the narrowest part of the canyon

Greaves Creek

Greaves Creek

The path runs under the cliffs

The Grand Canyon Track

More sandstone overhangs to be negotiated

The track through the canyon was constructed in 1907, during a period when hundreds of kilometres of tracks were built to access the escarpments, lookouts, and walls of the Grose and Jamison Valleys. It has recently been restored thanks to a government grant of around $5m and is all the better for it.

The creek is now many metres below - this is a popular spot for canyoners to enter the river

Above Greaves Creek

Greaves Creek in the slot canyon

The path continues winding through the canyon

Much of the path here is railed

The Grand Canyon

Following the ledges above Greaves Creek

Fire damage in the Grand Canyon

Having undulated along the cliff, we reached Greaves Creek once again, where it emerges from the slot canyon. Based on what we had read, we were led to believe that this was the end of our canyoning adventure, but we were wrong. The track, still following Greaves Creek, crosses the stream several times as it passes through a dramatic section of the canyon.

Descending down to the creek once again

Greaves Creek emerging from the slot canyon

Greaves Creek

Greaves Creek

Greaves Creek

Greaves Creek

Greaves Creek

The towering sandstone cliffs

Greaves Creek

Crossing Greaves Creek

Eventually, we reached the junction at Rodriguez Pass - one of the popular tracks in the Blue Mountains. Sadly the track will be closed for the foreseeable future due to the damage caused by the 2020 bushfires - it's unlikely that it will be opened again, you never know. After the path junction, we began our climb out of the canyon towards Evans Lookout.

Starting the climb out of the canyon

Steps lead the way

The gap in the cliffs

The track climbs a set of steps, up through a gap in the cliffs, following a series of ‘Evans Lookout’ arrows that point up the hill. It was misty as we emerged from the canyon - definitely a throwback to our Lake District days.

Fire damage as we emerge from the canyon

On the cliff edge above Grose Valley

Climbing to Evans Lookout

The final climb to Evans Lookout

As the steps climb further still, the evidence of the recent bushfires was all too plain to see. Blackened trees lined much of the path as it heads towards Evans Lookout. However, as is the way with nature, there are signs of life returning already. Eastern Australia is one of the most fire-prone regions of the world, and its predominant eucalyptus forests have evolved to thrive on the phenomenon of bushfires.

The tree's seeds are protected within woody capsules known as gumnuts. When a fire sweeps through a forest, the gumnuts act as insulation and eventually open up, showering seeds onto beds of ash and beginning the process of regrowth.

After a heart-stirring climb, we emerged at the top of the steps at Evans Lookout. Sadly, it was still quite cloudy but we did see a couple of fleeting glimpses of the Grose Valley. The monument at the lookout bears this inscription:

“This memorial was erected in memory of George Evans Esq. Solicitor of Sydney & London who was a pioneer of this district. He discovered this lookout and entrance to Grose Valley in the year 1882. Erected by his daughter Mrs E.E. MacLaurin 1932.”

The Grose Valley

Evans Lookout

The Grose Valley

After loitering around the lookout for a few minutes in the hope the clouds would lift, we left, defeated, and made our way back towards the Neates Glen car park. A path runs parallel to the road through the burnt remains of the woodland. Despite the ravages of the recent bushfires, life appears to be making a comeback just a few short weeks after the blazes were extinguished. Despite its modest length, this is a stunning walk and one I would happily do again. It would be nice to see the difference on a warm, sunny day - Australia is known for having one or two of those.

Bushfire damage

Life returning to the valley