Circular Quay, Sydney Harbour Bridge & Lavender Bay

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Route: Circular Quay, The Rocks, Bridge Stairs, Cahill Expressway, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Kirribilli, Bradfield Park, North Sydney Olympic Pool, Luna Park, Secret Garden, Lavender Bay, McMahons Point

Date: 05/10/2019
From: Circular Quay

Parking: N/A
Start Point: Circular Quay
Finish Point: McMahons Point
Region: Sydney CBD

Route length: 3.0 miles (4.8km)
Time taken: 01:35
Average speed: 1.8mph
Ascent: 101m
Descent: 105m

Points of Interest: Circular Quay, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Lavender Bay

Another short walk to get us acquainted with Sydney, this time across the Harbour Bridge and along some of the northern shore, giving us a new perspective of the city and exploring some of its hidden gems. Walks like this are very easy given the abundance of public transport and Sydney's London-esque Opal travel cards. The difference here is that Sydney has a fleet of ferries as well as the usual buses and trains.

We hopped off the train at Circular Quay, the bustling ferry hub in the heart of the city. In fact, "The Quay", situated in Sydney Cove, is the founding place for the settlement of Australia - Sydney Cove was the site of the initial landing of the First Fleet in 1788. We followed the quayside to the famous Rocks area of Sydney, a popular tourist location thanks to its location on the harbour and its collection of historic buildings. Through the Rocks, we made our way to Argyle Stairs which climb up to Bridge Stairs.

Circular Quay

The Bridge Stair

The Bridge Stairs, housed in a rectangular, art-deco building, climb a few flights to Cahill Expressway. The road is one of the key routes in and out of the city, primarily because it carries traffic over the Sydney Harbour Bridge, which is exactly where we were heading (The main roadway across the bridge is actually the Bradfield Highway and is about 2.4 km (1.5 mi) long, making it one of the shortest highways in Australia).

Approaching the southern pylons

Sydney Opera House

The southern pylon

The bridge was designed and built by British firm Dorman Long of Middlesbrough and opened in 1932 (they later went on to build the Tyne Bridge in Newcastle). It is currently the tenth-longest spanning-arch bridge in the world and the tallest steel arch bridge, measuring 134m from top to water level. It is a magnificent beast. In addition to the road, the Harbour Bridge carries a railway and a protected pedestrian footpath which gives a superb view of Sydney Harbour and the iconic Sydney Opera House as well as an intimate view of the steel structure of the bridge itself.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Sydney Opera House and Circular Quay

The bridge's famous steel arch

Reaching the mid-point

Sydney Harbour

Circular Quay

Sydney Opera House

The north end of the bridge terminates at Milsons Point where another set of steps descends to the ground below. We passed through a wide underpass and proceeded down the sloping grass of Bradfield Park to the North Sydney Olympic Pool. There is a fine view here of the underside of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House on the opposite side of the harbour. Around the corner from the ferry wharf is the charming Luna Park.

Kirribilli

Steps down to Fitzroy Street

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Sydney Harbour Bridge

The view from Milsons Point

The theme park was constructed in the 1930s and has a collection of now-vintage rides. Though closing several times in its history, the present arrangement has operated successfully since 2004. It is one of only two amusement parks in the world that are protected by government legislation, the other being Tivoli Gardens in Denmark.

Milsons Point ferry wharf

Luna Park's famous smiling face, as well as its flanking towers, have presided over the main entrance for almost all of the park's existence. There have been eight distinct faces with the current Face, completed in 1994 and carved from polyurethane, based on the 1950 "Old King Cole" version.

The entrance to Luna Park

Luna Park

Luna Park

Luna Park

As Luna Park is pay to ride, it's free to wander through the amusements to reach the walkway around Lavender Bay, named after a bosun of one of the prison hulks which was moored in the bay for several years. Above the bay, hidden up a flight of unassuming steps, is the delightful Secret Garden of Wendy Whiteley.

Lavender Bay

Lavender Bay

Wendy Whiteley's garden

The garden was created by Wendy Whitely after her husband (Australian artist Brett Whitely) died of a heroin overdose. The large patch of derelict land adjacent to her home in Lavender Bay was owned by the New South Wales Rail Corporation. It was choked by weeds, and strewn with old train carriages, abandoned refrigerators, rotting mattresses and broken bottles. The Rail Corporation had no interest in doing anything with nor did they raise any objections to her beautifying the area. They even helped by removing some of the larger pieces of waste.

Wendy Whiteley's garden

It is affectionately known by locals as "Wendy's Secret Garden", although the public has always had free access. It has a stunning view of the Sydney Harbour Bridge.

The harbour bridge

In order to reach the ferry wharf at McMahons Point, we had to leave the waterside at the silty remains of one of the harbour slipways, via a set of steps which climb up to the road behind some rather expensive looking houses. These houses all have private jetties, preventing the general public being able to use the waterfront. Fortunately, it wasn't long before we were back at the waterside at McMahons Point.

Slipway remains

The bridge and opera house

Sydney seen from McMahons Point

Sydney's CBD

Any of the ferry trips that enter Circular Quay are a superb way to view the two Sydney Harbour icons - the bridge and the Sydney Opera House. Even on a cloudy day today they are impressive and, given their fame around the world, I'm still getting used to seeing them on a daily basis.