Barrenjoey & Palm Beach - Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

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Route: Pittwater Park, Observation Point, Governor Phillip Park, Station Beach, Barrenjoey Head, Barrenjoey Lighthouse, Palm Beach, Governor Phillip Park

Date: 06/10/2019
From: Pittwater Park

Parking: Avalon Soccer Club
Start Point: Pittwater Park
Finish Point: Pittwater Park
Region: Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park

Route length: 3.9 miles (6.3km)
Time taken: 01:59
Average speed: 2.4mph
Ascent: 181m
Descent: 161m

Points of Interest: Barrenjoey Lighthouse, Palm Beach

North of Sydney is the area known as the Northern Beaches. There are no secrets in the name, the area is home to a string of Pacific-facing beaches that line the east coast. The most northerly (and popular) of these is Palm Beach, a fine spit of land which sits opposite the lush, green Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park.

Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park lies just 25km north of Sydney's CBD. The park gets its name from the Guringai Aboriginal people who are the traditional owners of the area with the word Chase meaning the area is open, unfenced bush. The national park is the third oldest in Australia (Royal National Park to the south of Sydney being the oldest) having been initially declared in 1894.

Strictly speaking, the only part of the national park we'd be visiting today would be the isolated area of Barrenjoey, a sandstone headland that is separated from the rest of the national park by a stretch of open water - the Pittwater. Barrenjoey is home to a lighthouse and is a popular hike for visitors from Sydney.

Like most popular places, parking at Palm Beach is an issue, especially during a warm, sunny bank holiday weekend. Fortunately, after some modest research, I found a form of park and ride which allows us to park at a local sports centre for free and take a short bus ride to Pittwater Park where we began our hike.

The beginning of the coastal walk

Palm Beach wharf

Pittwater from Observation Point

We followed Barrenjoey Road north as it makes a short climb to reveal a sweeping view of Careel Bay and Pittwater before it descends again to the Palm Beach Golf Club which sits adjacent to Governor Phillip Park, named after Admiral Arthur Phillip. Arthur Phillip was a Royal Navy officer and the first Governor of New South Wales who founded the British penal colony that later became the city of Sydney. Pittwater was the first place in Australia formally named by Governor Phillip, in honour of William Pitt, then Prime Minister of England.

Governor Phillip Park

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Governor Phillip Park backed by Barrenjoey Lighthouse

We followed a track through the neighbouring Governor Phillip Park to Station Beach and, shortly after, to the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park where the path divides. While both options climb to the Barrenjoey lighthouse one consists of a series of steep steps (the Smugglers Track) and one a longer, more gradual 4x4 track (the Barrenjoey Lighthouse Track). We opted for the latter, taking the track that winds up through the bush onto the headland (the Smugglers Track is the best option for descent). Clearings in the trees revealed a superb view of Palm Beach.

Station Beach

Station Beach

The bottom of the Smugglers Track

Palm Beach (and the Barrenjoey Headland) is known as a tombolo - from the Italian/Latin translation tumulus or mound. Tombolos are deposition landforms in which an island becomes attached to the mainland by a narrow piece of land such as a spit or bar. Once attached, the island is then known as a tied island. Views from the track clearly reveal this.

The Lighthouse Track

Palm Beach

Palm Beach

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

Before long we reached the lighthouse perched atop the headland. It was completed in 1881 and is located on the most northerly point of Sydney, overlooking Broken Bay and the entrance to Pittwater. Close by is the grave of George Mulhall, the first keeper at the lighthouse and a short trek beyond are the remains of a Stuart Tower - the first such lighthouse on Barrenjoey.

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

Broken Bay

Barrenjoey Lighthouse

George Mulhall's grave

The Stuart Tower

Looking back towards the lighthouse

Palm Beach

We had a wander around before making our way back towards Palm Beach along the Smugglers Track. While its name suggests a more illicit purpose, the Smugglers Track was actually built by customs officers in around 1850 (prior to the lighthouse's construction) to monitor any smugglers bringing contraband into Broken Bay.

Palm Beach and Barrenjoey Lighthouse

Palm Beach

Descending the Smugglers Track

Palm Beach lookout

Palm Beach

Palm Beach

We returned to the location where the path divides and crossed through the bush to reach the northern end of the stunning Palm Beach which provides a simple, sandy route back to the road. Aussie soap fans may recognise Palm Beach as the exterior setting for Home & Away. After a hearty lunch, we hopped back on the bus back to the car park.

Barrenjoey Head

Palm Beach

Classic Australia

The Northern Beaches is a beautiful part of Sydney, a world away from the hustle and bustle of the CBD and inner suburbs. We plan to explore more of the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park so keep your eyes peeled!