Scafell Pike from Great Langdale

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Route: ODG Hotel, Cumbria Way, Rossett Pass, Angle Tarn, Tongue Head, Esk Hause, Sprinkling Tarn, Sty Head, Corridor Route, Piers Gill, Lingmell Col, Scafell Pike, Broad Crag Col, Broad Crag, Great End, Esk Hause, Esk Pike, Ore Gap, Bowfell, Three Tarns, The Band, Stool End, ODG Hotel

Date: 20/07/2019
From: Great Langdale

Parking: Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel
Start Point: Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel
Region: Southern Fells

Route length: 13.7 miles (22.2km)
Time taken: 07:49
Average speed: 1.8mph
Ascent: 1,610m
Descent: 1,609m

Wainwrights on this walk:
Scafell Pike (978m), Great End (910m), Esk Pike (885m), Bowfell (902m)

Other summits:
None

Wainwright noted in his pictorial guide that a walk from Great Langdale to Scafell Pike would require re-walking significant parts of the route. We'd be out to try and prove that wrong, with a long day out on the highest of the Lakeland fells.

We were expecting some poor weather for much of the morning, brightening in the late afternoon. Luckily for us, it was still dry by the time we had our gear together and had congregated outside the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. With the best of the weather forecast later in the day our plan was to take the long route from Great Langdale to Sty Head and then the Corridor Route to Scafell Pike. Hopefully, that meant timing our arrival at Scafell Pike with the weather.

Setting off from the hotel, we made our way out along the stony track which runs the length of the valley of Mickleden. We followed the track, which forms part of the Cumbria Way, for a few miles into the valley to the point where it splits; the right-hand branch climbs to Stake Pass and Langstrath while the left branch (our route) begins a steady climb to Rossett Pass.

Clouds and rain in Great Langdale

The Langdale Pikes

Rossett Pass and Rossett Pike

Pike O'Stickle

The Cumbria Way in Mickleden

Clouds swirl around Pike O'Stickle

Mickleden Beck below Rossett Pike

Mickleden Beck

The Rossett Pass path is well maintained and benefits from pitched stone for much of the climb. It's not particularly steep either but does last a while thanks to a series of wide zigzags. We climbed up to the summit of the pass at Angle Tarn. The wind had picked up as we made our way up into the clouds, aiming for the shelter at Esk Hause. The shelter is built at one of the Lake District's main footpath "crossroads" with paths converging from Borrowdale, Eskdale, Wasdale and Langdale.

Starting the climb to Rossett Pass

The crags of Bowfell

Rossett Gill

Rossett Pike

Mickleden and Lingmoor Fell

Mickleden

Angle Tarn

The Esk Hause shelter

After hunkering down in the shelter for a break, we strode on into the cloud and wind, beginning a shallow descent alongside Ruddy Gill as it flows towards Grains. Passing the top of the valley, we descended further to Sprinkling Tarn, dropping below the cloud in the process. Once we had crossed the outlet of the tarn we made our way downhill, heading for the famed pass at Sty Head.

Ruddy Gill

The path at Sprinkling Tarn

Sprinkling Tarn

Above Sty Head

Much like Esk Hause, Sty Head, is the meeting point of a couple of major paths; Seathwaite and Wasdale in particular. It is also the springboard to routes up many of the high fells; Great End, Scafell Pike and Great Gable are all achievable from Sty Head.

The low cairn that marks the beginning of the Corridor Route

The Corridor Route strikes out across the fellside

Above the tarn, a cairn marks the beginning of the Corridor Route, a superlative path which links Sty Head to Lingmell Col and the high Scafells. The weather was visibly improving as we started out along the route, with the clouds lifting to the higher fells and the odd patch of sun appearing on the hillsides. It seemed that our plan was working, though Scafell Pike remained in the cloud.

The Corridor Route first descends into a marshy combe before climbing across the lower boulders of the dramatic Skew Gill. A short scramble up some red rocks returned us to the path. We noticed a few people taking the wrong route upon exiting Skew Gill, the path climbs steeply to the left rather than following the contours. After this, it becomes much clearer, allowing you to follow it with ease while keeping an eye on the unfolding views of Wasdale Head, Great Gable and the looming Lingmell.

The path along the Corridor Route starts off a little vague

Skew Gill

Another awkward gill crossing is required a the halfway stage, and a brief scramble is required to get down to it. The path crosses the gill without drama before continuing one, still climbing.

Great Gable

Wasdale Head

Lingmell and Piers Gill

The path crossing the rock step

Greta Gill below Round How

After Greta Gill, a choice can be made, either to bear left and attack Scafell Pike by scrambling up to the col between it and Broad Crag (a route I've done previously), or by continuing on to Piers Gill and popping up at Lingmell Col. We chose the second option, keen to see what Piers Gill contained. A search for Piers Gill on the internet confirmed what I already knew, it's a place to really keep an eye out for.

Approaching Piers Gill

 Piers Gill is a huge ravine, carving a route from Lingmell Col all the way (eventually) the Wast Water. It's definitely not the place to get stranded in unless you really are equipped and experienced. As I mentioned a moment ago, an internet search for Piers Gill reveals the top result being a page from Wasdale MRT - it's one of their problem areas. 

On a fine day like today, crossing the gill is as easy as any other, however, in poor weather, it is easy to mistake the entrance as a route down from Lingmell Col to Wasdale, which it is not. There is no phone coverage in the gill and it's often too late before people realise their error. The mistake is generally made by people descending but that can't rule out erroneously wandering in while climbing as well.

Piers Gill

Broad Crag and the col separating it from Scafell Pike

Lingmell

We spent a moment peering down the ravine, trying to make a mental note of where the path crosses the top in case we find ourselves in the exact situation I've just described. After Piers Gill, the path climbs on, joining the motorway leading up from Wasdale, just above Lingmell Col. I wouldn't blame you in thinking you were nearly at the top, but Scafell Pike is a big mountain, there's still a 250m climb ahead of you, this time much steeper and rockier than anything experienced to this point.

Climbing the slabs beneath the summit

Clouds swirl around Great End and Broad Crag

Looking back down to Lingmell

We plodded on, quietly covering the final climb until, finally, the large platform marking the summit comes into view and the steepness abates. We'd reached the top of the country and, importantly, our plan to time our arrival with the sun had worked.

Approaching Scafell Pike's summit

The summit platform and trig pillar

Scafell Pike's trig pillar

While the immediate summit of Scafell Pike is a bit disappointing, take a trip to the edge of the plateau and you are rewarded for your efforts. A stony hop across the shattered rocks to the south-west reveals the imposing crags of Scafell and the notorious Broad Stand while heading to the south-eastern top presents a fine panorama of Eskdale and the high Broad Crag and Ill Crag to the north. It's a scene befitting Scafell Pike's lofty status.

Ill Crag and Bowfell

Bowfell

Sty Head, Borrowdale and the northern fells

Great Gable

A deep col separates Scafell Pike from Broad Crag, a bit dispiriting considering the efforts undertaken to reach Scafell Pike. Still, it would be even more dispiriting approaching from the other direction, the summit stands so close yet so very far away. We reached Broad Crag, staked our claim to it and pressed on, over the strewn boulders towards Great End.

Bowfell and Crinkle Crags 

Broad Crag

Broad Crag col

Sunlight picks out the small peak of Pen

Scafell Pike

Looking along the length of the Corridor Route

Scafell Pike silhouetted against the clouds

The bouldery Ill Crag - Great End ridge

Other than craggy approaches and a lofty height, Great End does not share the summit characteristics of Scafell Pike or Ill Crag. Gone are the tumbled rocks and broken boulders, replaced with a luxuriant, flat turf, good enough to get a decent night's sleep on. Two summits are evident, the highest (I believe), being the one to the east, overlooking Borrowdale. It's a magnificent viewpoint, separated from the second summit by the immense tear of Central Gully. The western top looks down into Wasdale.

Green Gable

Heading towards Great End

Ill Crag and Scafell Pike

Glaramara and Allen Crags

Great End's summit

Borrowdale

From Great End, a vague path drops down the stony slopes to the east to the true Esk Hause - the higher pass at Esk Hause (above the shelter we had visited earlier in the day). There was still plenty of climbing left to do with a crossing of Esk Pike and Bowfell on the cards. Fortunately, neither of these are particularly steep.

Esk Pike

Esk Hause and Allen Crags

Great End and the higher Esk Hause

Ill Crag

The route up Esk Pike

Esk Pike's summit

Beyond the summit of Esk Pike, the path drops down again, this time to red-stained rocks at Ore Gap. The sun had disappeared behind a bank of clouds as I began the steady climb towards the summit of Bowfell.

Ore Gap

The Scafells over Pike de Bield

A string of cairns line the path from Ore Gap

The Langdale Pikes

I eventually reached the summit of Bowfell, arguably one of the finest in the Lake District and certainly a favourite among many hill walkers. It is perfectly isolated and has a near 360-degree view including Eskdale, Great Langdale and perhaps the best view of the Scafell range. In addition to this, as it was getting towards the late afternoon, I had the summit entirely to myself which is a rarity.

The rocky summit of Bowfell

Three Tarns and Crinkle Crags

Bowfell and the Scafells

I considered using the Climbers Traverse to make my descent but, keeping an eye on the time decided the quickest route back to Great Langdale would be along The Band. To get to The Band first requires passing the Great Slab and slithering down the steep eastern slope to Three Tarns.

The top of the Great Slab

The Great Slab

Crinkles Crags over Three Tarns

The col at Three Tarns

The Band stretches ahead

Despite being the quickest and most direct route to Bowfell, The Band is pretty unrelenting, whether you are tackling it in ascent or descent. The path, while easy to follow, stays at a constant gradient and the farm at Stool End never seems to get any closer.

Bowfell from The Band

The path down The Band

Crinkle Crags

Great Langdale

The Langdale Pikes

Lingmoor Fell

From Stool End it's a short stroll to the car park at the hotel to conclude an epic day on the fells. It's quite rare that a plan falls well into place but it all came together today, especially a well-earned pint in the pub afterwards.