Yorkshire 2000s - Great Whernside

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Route: Kettlewell, Dowber Gill Beck, Hag Dike, Great Whernside, Blackfell Top, Black Dike Hole, Tor Dike, Tor Mere Top, Starbotton Peat Ground, Starbotton Cam Road, Starbotton, Dales Way

Date: 26/05/2013
From: Kettlewell

Parking: National Park Car Park
Start Point: Kettlewell
Region: Yorkshire Dales

Route length: 10 miles (16.1km)
Time taken: 04:40
Average speed: 2.1mph
Ascent: 707m
Descent: 707m

Yorkshire 2000s on this walk: Great Whernside (704m)

Additional summits: Blackfell Top (699m), Tor Mere Top (628m)

Other points of interest: Providence Pot, Tor Dike, Dales Way

Great Whernside stands tall, overlooking Kettlewell and its summit, like its larger namesake, forms part of the boundary of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. Sara and I have been to Kettlewell many times in the past but never ventured up the slopes towards Great Whernside. It's fair to say that my appetite for hill climbing wasn't what it is now so it came a bit of a surprise just how close Great Whernside is to Kettlewell and what a great walk could be accomplished. What better way to spend a bank holiday weekend with friends?

Contrary to typical bank holiday weather, we were blessed with clear skies, bright sun and a light breeze. A perfect day to soak up the scenery of the Yorkshire Dales. We met a couple of friends, Lizzy and Jordan, at Kettlewell and, after improvising some parking we kitted up and headed out through the village. We had decided on a circular walk that started with a climb up alongside Dowber Gill Beck, a fine example of a landscape feature of the Yoredale rocks; smooth-faced waterfalls.

The smooth-faced waterfalls formed as water passes over varying layers of rock

Dowber Gill Beck

After a steady climb in the warm sunshine, we approached a large group of people who appeared to be heading the same way. Burdened by their numbers and small children, we quickly passed as they stopped for a break and left them behind. The top of the path leads to the location where Hag Dike Gill Beck and Dowber Gill Wham meet to form Dowber Gill Beck. At this location you can find Providence Pot; a substantial cave system that comprises a series of large chambers and narrow joining passages. It is easily accessible to cavers thanks to its sturdy concrete surround, complete with manhole cover! More information can be found here.

From here, we turned back on ourselves and headed up a steep path that climbed out of the Dowber Gill Beck valley before crossing a peaty bog to reach Hag Dyke. Hag Dyke is a Scout Hostel acquired in 1947 for the Ben Rhydding Scout and Guide Group. Its history of occupation dates back to 1730 but it's possible that it was built in the late 1600s as a miners accommodation for the nearby Dowber Ghyll lead mines.

Hag Dyke sitting proudly on the slopes of Great Whernside overlooking Wharfedale below

As midday approached, the climb up towards the summit steepened as we left Hag Dyke behind. The frequent breeze was a welcome inclusion to ward off any over-heating at this point. After negotiating a 100m climb, we caught out breath on some limestone outcrops before venturing across the boggy slopes that lie just below the summit. It's fair to say that my green boots didn't stay green for long.

The steep climb up from Hag Dyke 

Sara stops to catch her breath before crossing the bogs

Jordan heads across the bogs towards the summit

After a further 200m climb, we reached the summit of Great Whernside. The summit scenery reminded me a great deal of some of the Peak District edges, particularly the scattered, square millstone grit boulders ("Whern" is derived from "quern" meaning millstone). At 704m, Great Whernside is the 6th highest hill on the list detailed in my previous post. Until 1997, there was no public right of way to the summit before two paths were registered up to and across the summit. In 2000 the mountain became access land meaning you can now explore it all at your leisure. We took the opportunity to grab some lunch in the sheltered rocks before continuing along the summit ridge towards Blackfell Top.

The millstone grit topped summit of Great Whernside (704m)

Posing with the trig point

Looking north from the summit towards Blackfell Top and Blackfell Crags in the distance

The walk here was easy going, passing a large ramshackle shelter before starting a descent perpendicular to the summit ridge. Crossing Black Dike, another boggy area, we reached Tor Dike. Tor Dike is a 2000m long linear earthwork comprising of a ditch and rampart built in the 1st century AD by Iron Age tribes to defend themselves from the Romans. As you can see from the picture below, it's an impressive feature as the path climbs up alongside.

Tor Dike

Crossing the road that leads from Coverdale into Wharfedale, we entered the Access Land at Great Hunters Sleets and followed the rough path towards the summit of Tor Mere Top. Looking back presents a fine view of Great Whernside.

Panorama of Great Whernside from the path up Tor Mere Top

After a fairly strenuous climb through the afternoon heat and the long grass, we reached Tor Mere Top. At 628m it could be considered to be one of the Yorkshire 2000s however, the list I'm following is determined by the hill's status as a Nuttall, Hewitt or Marilyn. Unfortunately, Tor Mere Top's status as a Nuttall was revoked following improved mapping, removing its classification and its inclusion in the list.

The grassy summit of ex-Nuttall Tor Mere Top

With the briefest of stops to check the map, we started the descent towards Starbotton Cam Road to begin a 400m drop into Starbotton. Starbotton Cam Road is easy enough to walk down but the reflective white stones and stillness of the air in the valley made for a fairly hot and tiring descent. The road has some fine views of both Starbotton and also into the valley of Cam Gill Beck. Before long we reached Starbotton and crossed through the village to join the Dales Way, the walker's motorway, to head back to Kettlewell.

Sara follows the brightly lit Starbotton Cam Road to Starbotton

Starbotton Cam Road as viewed from the Dales Way, between Starbotton and Kettlewell

All that remained was a 2-mile stroll along the River Wharfe, dodging the sheep and crayfish, back to Kettlewell. It was at this point that we agreed it was a good idea not to increase the size of the walk by including Buckden Pike as the legs were starting to feel the strain. Buckden Pike will just have to be saved for another day.

All in all, I really enjoyed this walk, particularly as the weather was on our side for once. Morale is certainly much higher when cold water isn't being blasted into your face. The Dales is a wonderful place when the sun is shining, especially when spring is in full flow and the colours are at their brightest. Fingers crossed the weather will be as kind to us during future walks. I have a feeling that the landscape of Great Whernside will be synonymous with many of the walks I'll be doing as part of this quest. We'll just have to wait and see.

Next stop, the Howgills.

Yorkshire 2000s - Pen-y-Ghent & Plover Hill

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Route: Horton in Ribblesdale, Brackenbottom, Brackenbottom Scar, Pennine Way, Pen-Y-Ghent, Plover Hill, Swarth Gill Gate, Foxup Road, Horton Moor, Hull Pot, Horton Scar

Date: 12/05/2013
From: Horton in Ribblesdale

Parking: National Park Car Park
Start Point: Horton in Ribblesdale
Region: Yorkshire Dales

Route length: 9 miles (14.5km)
Time taken: 03:51
Average speed: 2.3mph
Ascent: 591m
Descent: 595m

2000s on this walk:
Pen-Y-Ghent (695m), Plover Hill (680m)

Additional summits: None

Other points of interest: Hull Put and Horton Scar

When starting a challenge, why not start with one of the best? Pen-Y-Ghent certainly falls into that category, it's iconic shape is recognisable to nearly everyone who visits the great outdoors, particularly those familiar with the Yorkshire Dales. At 695m, it's certainly not the highest peak on the list but what it lacks in height, it makes up for in interest and excitement. Add a high-level walk to a second peak, endless bog, a collapsed cave and persistent rain and you have a typical day out in limestone country. Here's what happened.....

Arriving at Horton, we aimed for the car park but, being honorary Yorkshire folk, we found a free spot on the road, making sure we weren't inconveniencing any locals. The forecast was for clouds to descent during the day as a weather front moved in. As we booted up, we decided to yomp up Pen-Y-Ghent post-haste in order to make sure we were on the summit before the weather closed in. This turned out to be a wise move, as you'll read later.

The walk starts with a brief wander along the road to Brackenbottom, past the Pen-Y-Ghent Cafe, the traditional starting point of the Yorkshire Three Peaks challenge.

Sara on the road towards Brackenbottom

The route leaves the road and begins the steady climb up past Brackenbottom scar. You can see from the photo below that the path here is starting to suffer from the popularity of Pen-Y-Ghent and the impact of the Three Peaks challenge. I read somewhere that people should consider undertaking the challenge and donating their money to the Yorkshire Dales National Park to help repair the paths and I couldn't agree more.

The multiple eroded paths climbing the hill towards Pen-Y-Ghent

I enjoyed this part of the walk as it allows you warm up, cover a fair distance and gain some height without a great deal of exertion. Before long (despite seeing it several times already), Pen-Y-Ghent looms into view. And what a sight it is. Some say it resembles a crouching lion, I don't really see it myself but I'll let you decide on that one. In either case, it looks impressive, more so the closer you get.

Pen-Y-Ghent from the path up Brackenbottom Scar

Before long, the path reaches the Pennine Way, which crosses directly over the summit. In fact, the peak forms part of the watershed of the Pennine Fells - water from the western flanks drains towards the Irish Sea while water from the eastern flanks eventually finds its way into the Humber Estuary.

The Pennine way climbs to the summit

Joining the Pennine Way begins the most interesting part of the walk as the path steepens, eventually ending up become a mini-scramble to reach the summit plateau. We passed a father taking his two young children up, offering them words of encouragement all the way. Fair play to him and them, I'm sure you wouldn't have got me up a mountain when I was 6.

The Pennine Way snakes up the side of Pen-Y-Ghent

Sara negotiates the 'hands-on' part of the climb

A few footholds, loose rocks and a pair of dirty hands later, we reached the final steady ascent to the summit. Marked by a trig point and featuring a rather enticing stone shelter, the summit was reasonably busy when we arrived, with some people already settling down for lunch, despite it being before midday. We thought if you can't beat them, join them and stopped for a break using the drystone wall as a shelter. The weather, incidentally, was now starting to take a rather damp turn and the odd light showers were starting to roam by.

Yours truly atop Pen-Y-Ghent. Definitely happier than the exterior suggests and definitely eyes open (I checked) 

Something odd happened next when we saw a gentleman arrive with a rather bag on his back. Upon closer inspection, it looked very much like a case for a tuba, but we dismissed it as maybe an oversized pack or paraglider maybe. But then, one by one, others arrived, all carrier cases of various shapes and sizes. It was only when the original fellow opened his case to reveal an actual tuba we realised what was happening. A full sized brass band had turned up! It turned out they were doing a practice run for the Three Peaks Challenge they were doing in August in aid of the MS Society. As we prepared to leave for Plover Hill, they gave us a rendition of the Great Escape. Brilliant.

The brass band warms up on the summit of Pen-Y-Ghent

Leaving the band behind, still hearing their tunes drifting on the wind, we turned our attention to the mile or so of high ground towards Plover Hill. I'd read it was boggy, which was an understatement. At first, it didn't seem so bad but the further we travelled the wider and deeper the bogs got. Indeed, neither I nor Sara managed to keep to the dryer ground and were thankful we'd decided to wear gaiters.

The ridge between Pen-Y-Ghent and Plover Hill

The bog following the dry stone wall

After a mile or so of particularly difficult walking in which we both achieved wet and muddy boots, we reached the summit of Plover Hill. Understated might be a bit of an understatement but that pretty much sums up the summit of Plover Hill. No real discernible peak and only a small pile of rocks marking the summit, the entirety of Plover Hill's interest seems to have been stolen by its famous neighbour. It almost seemed not to be worth the effort but that would be unfair as Plover Hill did have one trick up its sleeve; the descent.

The summit of Plover Hill with Pen-Y-Ghent in the distance

Leaving the summit and heading north towards Foxup Moor, the grassy bank of the summit dropped away sharply revealing a very interesting, narrow, steep descent. It was this very point that the Mountain Weather Information Service's forecast became reality and the drizzle started, making the final few metres a bit more challenging. Time to don the waterproofs,  not for the first time this year.

The narrow path descending the north face of Plover Hill

Reaching the bottom of the hill we joined the well-defined bridleway, Foxup Lane. Not a lane in the traditional sense, maybe more of a 'walkers road'. Turning west and heading towards Swarth Gill Gate, the weather really deteriorated making the 3-mile trek back to Horton a bit unpleasant to say the least. The lowered cloud also robbed us of any views we'd have of Pen-Y-Ghent Side on the return. There would be a final moment of geographer's delight though as we eventually reached Hull Pot.

Low clouds shroud Pen-Y-Ghent Side

Sara on the rather bland Foxup Lane

Hull Pot is the largest natural hole in England and is the result of a cave collapse countless years ago. It really is a stunning sight and we were quite lucky that the weather was wet meaning that Hull Pot Beck was cascading into it from above. I'm determined to return to Hull Pot on a fine day and have a really good nose around, not something that would have been particularly safe today. Leaving Hull Pot, we pressed on.

Hull Pot, England's largest natural hole. 

Me stood where the photo above was taken from. It's fair to say Sara wasn't keen with the overhang

Hull Pot Beck spills into Hull Pot, falling 20 metres to the ground below

At this point, Foxup Lane becomes Foxup Road and is, in fact, a Road - albeit one suitable for 4x4s. The descent of Foxup Road, adjacent to Horton Scar encompasses the final quarter of the walk and is a pleasant enough stroll through some classic limestone scenery. It's a shame it was so wet and I hadn't considered an alternate path down Horton Scar. Think of it as a series of mini-Malham coves and you're halfway there. Looks like a trip for another day. Probably the same day I re-visit Hull Pot.

Foxup Road returns you towards Horton in Ribblesdale

Horton Scar looks like a very tempting place to visit

Reaching the bottom of the Foxup Road we were spat out onto the main road through Horton in Ribblesdale. It was a simple task of returning to the car to dispel of the wet weather gear and crank the heaters up to dry off. I'd highly recommend this walk to everybody, especially Pen-Y-Ghent as I felt that it gives you a real sense of what climbing mountains are all about without being too strenuous at any point. The sheer variety of people we saw on the summit really tells the whole story about the appeal of the mountains of Yorkshire to everyone as well as their accessibility. It seems that whole image of hill walkers and walking, in general, is changing and becoming a much more popular pastime, which is definitely a good thing.

One last note, if you intend to tackle Plover Hill as well, remember to take your harpoon.