A Circuit of Wast Water

Route: Brackenclose, The Screes, Lund Bridge, Low Wood, The Lodge, Greendale, Netherbeck Bridge, Overbeck Bridge, Brackenclose

Date: 16/06/2018
From: Wasdale Head

Parking: Brackenclose
Start Point: Wasdale Head
Region: Western Fells

Route length: 7.5 miles (12 km)
Time taken: 03:20
Average speed: 2.2 mph
Ascent: 243m
Descent: 257m

Summits: None

Other points of interest: The Screes

Wastwater (or Wast Water) is England's deepest Lake and home to some of the most famous views in the Lake District. In fact, the National Park's logo is made up of the image of Great Gable, flanked by Yewbarrow and Lingmell - the iconic Wastwater view. Interestingly, it is a classic example of a glacially 'over deepened' lake meaning the bed level is actually below sea level.

Perhaps its most defining feature is the immense Screes - a 600m curtain of rocks and boulders that tumble into the lake from the fells above. A path crosses the foot of the screes allowing you to complete a grand circuit of the lake as we did on a damp summer afternoon.

Arriving mid-morning amidst a deluge, we booked in at our weekend campsite and pondered our options. A low-level walk in the rain didn't particularly appeal. Instead, we decamped to the pub at Wasdale Head and waited for the worst of the day's rain starting to ease. We emerged from the pub, ready for a swift afternoon outing.

Lingmell Gill

Wast Water and Middle Fell

We set off the National Trust campsite, passing through the Brackenclose car park and out to the farm where directions to the screes path are signposted.

Illgill Head

Kirk Fell

Starting out along the screes path

The screes and Wast Water

Knott Ends and Yewbarrow

After an undulating section of narrow path, reminiscent of a low-level climbers traverse, the path crosses the first area of fallen stone. For the most part, the route is fairly distinct and the fact that the path is guarded on either side by the steep scree and a short tumble in the water prevents any travelling 'off piste'. The screes actually extend below the surface of the water for another 60m before they come to an end.

Bowderdale and Knott Ends

The screes

The screes

Looking up the screes to Bell Rib

The screes

The screes

Looking back along the screes

The crags of Whin Rigg

Yewbarrow

After crossing the area of smaller scree and gaining a bit of altitude, the path regains its grassy nature and continues along to the real star of the day; the boulder field. From here it's a navigational free-for-all as the path disappears and is replaced by a jumbled pile of rocks and boulders. I really enjoyed this part of the walk, hopping across the boulders while working up a decent sweat in the process. Before long, the path reappears and the boulders begin to subside as you reach the very end of Wastwater.

The boulders

Broken Rib

The boulder field below Broad Crag

Wast Water

Yewbarrow

Clouds part over Yewbarrow

The boulders

Add caption

Wast Water panorama

Here there is a pumping station that feeds water from the lake to the nearby nuclear facility at Sellafield. Passing the brick building sends you alongside the River Irt for a short distance, crossing it at Lund Bridge. The path cuts through Low Wood to the Youth Hostel where you can find a shoreside path that starts the return towards Wasdale Head.

The southern end of Wast Water

The River Irt at Low Wood

Wast Water

The screes

The screes

The walk back to Wasdale Head is largely along the road but it is fairly quiet and offers ample opportunities to leave it to admire the views. We passed the Greendale junction, where the iconic view of Great Gable is, well, at its most iconic. Passing beneath the immense slopes of Yewbarrow is also impressive. The only downside of the route at this time of day is the number of minibuses arriving with the Three Peaks crowds.

The Wast Water view from the Greendale landing stage

Middle Fell

Greendale junction

Clouds linger atop Illgill Head

Great Gable

Wast Water

Yewbarrow

It was drizzling lightly by the time we made it back to the campsite - we had managed to squeeze in a walk during the best of the weather. We were treated to some fine views of Kirk Fell and Great Gable as we inevitably ended up back in the pub at Wasdale Head. I'm starting to see the appeal of circumnavigating all of the Lake District's lakes, within reason - Windermere is over 10 miles long.

Kirk Fell and Great Gable

Wasdale Head Inn