Thursday, 5 February 2026

The Routeburn Track - Day 1

The first day of the Routeburn Track is a spectacular 15-kilometre alpine crossing from The Divide to Lake Mackenzie. The journey kicks off with a steady climb to the famous Key Summit detour for jaw-dropping panoramas over the Hollyford Valley. Back on the main trail, you'll hug the rugged cliff faces of the Livingstone Range and pass directly beneath the roaring, 174-metre Earland Falls before passing through The Orchard and descending into the mossy forest surrounding Lake Mackenzie.

The Routeburn Track - Day 1 - The Divide to Lake Mackenzie

📍 FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK

Distance 15.2 km
Duration 05:45 hrs
Elev Gain +849 m
Elev Lost -477 m
Date 05 February 2026
Starting Point The Divide
Difficulty Moderate
Pace / Gear 3.9 km/h — 50L multi-day pack
Highlights Key Summit, Earland Falls, The Orchard, Lake Mackenzie
🗺️ Interactive Route Map Pinch or use wheel to zoom
The Routeburn Track is the ultimate alpine pass, connecting Mount Aspiring and Fiordland National Parks in one epic 33km journey. Usually done over three days, it takes you from lush beech forests of the Hollyford Valley up to the 1,255m Harris Saddle for some of the best mountain views in New Zealand. It’s a world-class Great Walk that’s manageable for most hikers, but you’ll definitely need to book your huts well in advance to snag a spot. There are three options for hikers: book DOC huts independently, cross the entire route in a single day or book on to a guided experience.

The route can be hiked in either direction, from Routeburn Shelter or The Divide. Our crossing began at The Divide, the lowest east-west pass in the Southern Alps at 532m. It carries State Highway 94 on its way towards Milford Sound. The trailhead's shelter features toilets, water and a changing room, allowing a quick gear prep and a final check of the maps before embarking on the trail. It's also a popular starting point for day hikes, so it can be busy. 
A cloudy morning at The Divide
The western starting point for the Routeburn Track
Geared up and ready to go
Once ready, we were left to depart the car park and amenities, beginning a steady climb through lush silver-beech forest. While the ascent is constant, the gradient is never too steep, allowing you to find your own rhythm easily. Within our guided group, we were left to make the climb at our own speed, with instructions to pause at the Key Summit turnoff. Our first day on the Routeburn was characterised by clouds funnelling along the Hollyford Valley, lifting and shifting to reveal glimpses of the towering Darran Mountains.
The Routeburn Track
Graded switch-backs on the Routeburn Track
The Routeburn Track
As the trees begin to thin, you'll come across the signed track to Key Summit, an out-and-back hike that you must not miss. You can leave your pack at the turn-off and make the 20-minute climb to the top. It's a little steeper than the Routeburn Track, but you'll appreciate not carrying a heavy pack.
The Routeburn Track
Emerging above the trees
Key Summit detour
Key Summit
The immense Hollyford Valley – our companion for the next two days
There is a self-guided boardwalk that encircles the summit and provides sublime views of the neighbouring mountains, the jagged peaks of the Darran Mountains. while the 360-degree views stretch across the Hollyford, Eglinton, and Greenstone valleys. It’s here, overlooking the distant, emerald waters of Lake Marian nestled in its hanging valley, that you'll witness the true scale of Fiordland’s mountains – even when capped in dramatic clouds like they were today.
Ailsa Mountains
The high point of Key Summit
Key Summit Alpine nature walk
The Darran Mountains with a covering of cloud
Key Summit
Key Summit
Returning to the Routeburn Track
After the Key Summit side quest, the Routeburn Track continues downhill for a short distance to reach Lake Howden. Until 2020 there was a DOC hut at Lake Howden before it was badly damaged by a landslide and deemed unsafe to repair. The hut was removed and replaced by a smaller day shelter on the opposite side of the creek. The shelter provides covered seating, water and toilets.
The Routeburn Track
The Routeburn Track
This DOC photo shows the scale of the damage at the hut
The remains of the gravel channel carved by the stream
Lake Howden shelter
Lake Howden
Lake Howden
Lake Howden
After a quick break at the shelter, we continued as the Routeburn Track climbs gradually across the slopes of the Ailsa Mountains, following the Hollyford Valley northwards. Once the path reaches a height of 800 m, the terrain levels out for the rest of the day. While there are a couple of recent landslips to navigate, they have been secured by DOC. Our next major landmark was the impressive Earland Falls.
Pass Creek
Entering an unstable section
The summit of Mount Christina
Mount Christina
The Routeburn Track
A recent landslip
The Routeburn Track
Crossing Sunny Creek
Regarded as one of New Zealand’s 'must-see' waterfalls, Earland Falls plunges over a steep cliff along the Routeburn Track on the South Island. The falls are fed by an unnamed creek originating from Lake Roberts. While the main track leads you directly past the base of the falls, a detour trail and bridge are available to provide safe passage across the creek during periods of heavy rain.
Earland Falls
Earland Falls plunge pool
Earland Falls
Continuing through the forest, the Routeburn Track emerges at The Orchard, a distinctive clearing. Despite its name, you won't find fruit here; instead, the open, grassy flat is dotted with mountain ribbonwood. It earned its title because the trees' scented white blossoms and spreading branches closely resemble a European apple orchard.
Earland Falls
Hollyford Valley
Mount Christina
The Darran Mountains
The jagged Ngatimamoe Peak ridge
Mount Christina
Entering The Orchard
The Orchard
This clearing likely originated from a massive historical landslide that swept away the dense beech forest, allowing the colonising ribbonwood to thrive in the fertile debris. From this vantage point, the views are spectacular—the jagged, snow-capped peaks of the Darran Mountains tower across the Hollyford Valley, with Mount Christina (2,474 m) perfectly framed above the treeline. For me, passing through The Orchard is the highlight of Day 1.
The Orchard
The Orchard
The Orchard
The Orchard
Mount Christina
Hollyford Valley
The Orchard
A later view of The Orchard gives it some context
Beyond The Orchard, the track begins its final descent towards Lake Mackenzie. The trail crosses the rushing waters of Roaring Creek before winding into a "fairytale" forest where every branch and boulder is draped in a thick, emerald carpet of moss. Finally, the path opens to reveal the various accommodations nestled near the shore, including the Lake Mackenzie Hut and the private Lake Mackenzie Lodge.
The Routeburn Track
Darran Mountains
The Routeburn Track
Roaring Creek
Roaring Creek
Approaching Lake Mackenzie Lodge
Lake Mackenzie Lodge
Lake Mackenzie Lodge
Lake Mackenzie Lodge
Lake Mackenzie (Te Kōpua) is a glacial lake located at 889 metres above sea level, nestled within a hanging valley in Fiordland National Park. Its distinctive turquoise hue is the result of "rock flour"—fine glacial silt suspended in the water—which reflects the light. The lake is surrounded by a cirque of steep granite faces and a forest dominated by silver beech and ribbonwood trees, often heavily covered in mosses and liverworts due to the area’s high annual rainfall. The Lake Mackenzie Hut and campsite sit near its northern shore, serving as the primary overnight stop for hikers moving between the Harris Saddle and the Earland Falls section of the track.
Lake Mackenzie
Lake Mackenzie
As the afternoon sun finally began to clear the clouds over Lake Mackenzie, I settled in to our home for the night: the Lake Mackenzie Lodge. Tucked away right near the shore, this private lodge felt like a total sanctuary after a big first day on the trail, offering a hot shower and a warm welcome that you just don't get at the standard campsites. Settling in surrounded by those massive granite peaks, we were left feeling well-rested and ready for tomorrow—knowing the climb up to Harris Saddle is the absolute highlight of the whole trek.

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