Standing on the sheer edge of Kanangra Tops, looking out over the gaping abyss of Kanangra Gorge and the jagged Thurat Spires, you quickly realise why this remote wilderness is the crown jewel of the southern Blue Mountains. This rewarding trek weaves past the cascading drop of Kalang Falls, ducks under the historic Dance Floor Cave, and follows dramatic cliff-line balconies along the plateau. Pushing deep into the scrub along the Gingra Trail to the isolated vantage point of Cottage Rock, it’s an epic, rugged day hike that delivers breathtaking scale and pure, untamed solitude.
From Sydney, it's a good 4-hour drive to Kanangra-Boyd National Park, as you need to circumnavigate the entirety of the southern Blue Mountains and Lake Burragorang. There is also a 30 km unsealed road to tackle leading into the national park, which, at the time of writing, is drivable in a 2WD car with only a few potholes to contend with. The remote camping area at Boyd River makes an excellent base for exploring the famed Kanangra Walls, as it is located just 7 km from where the action is. I had to endure a night of persistent, heavy rain, but the rewards were well worth it.
The hike begins from the car park at the end of Kanangra Walls Road - the aforementioned unsealed road. There are a number of things to see in the area, the first being Kalang Falls, accessed by following the Lookout Walk Track to the north. I could not help stopping by the Kanangra Walls Lookout to get my first glimpse of the valley. The exposed rock outcrop has a sensational view along Kanangra Creek, made all the more impressive by some morning mists.
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| The tracks begin at the end of the car park |
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| It was a beautiful morning at Kanangra Walls Lookout, which stands at the end of Echo Head |
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| The view along Kanangra Gorge |
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| Kanangra Walls |
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| Kanangra Gorge |
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| Kanangra Gorge with Mount Cloudmaker heading the valley |
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| Thurat Spires |
The waterfall is signposted a short distance from the lookout, where there is a relatively steep descent down some wooden steps. The steps follow a rock spur for a short distance before arriving at a wooden viewing platform. To see Kalang Falls in all its glory, you’ll need to walk behind the viewing platform and down to the creek.
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| Descending the rock ridge towards Kalang Falls |
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| The top of the Thurat Spires |
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| Kalang Falls |
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| Kalang Falls |
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| The small fenced platform at the falls |
I returned from the falls and stopped at the lookout once again now the morning mists had lifted. From the lookout, you will be able to see the length of the Kanagra Walls that fall 300 m from the plateau into the valley. The route ahead ultimately follows the line of cliffs along the Plataeu Walk.
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| The rock spur that leads to/from Kalang Falls |
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| Kanangra Gorge |
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| Layers of hills |
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| Kanangra Walls |
The Plateau Walk begins only a short distance from the car park - it's hard to miss. Once on the track, the path quickly begins descending. This is the steepest part of the Plataeu Walk but is interspersed by fantastic views through the gaps in the trees. After around 1 km the path reaches a fork with a small signpost pointing to the Dance Floor Cave, which is worth the short detour to reach.
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| On the Plateau Walk |
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| Kanangra Walls |
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| A small sign marks the location of Dance Floor Cave |
The cave is, in fact, a large overhang of sandstone. Its name is quite literal - it is located along an old cattle route from the Burragorang Valley to Oberon, and families used to gather at the cave to socialise and dance. Allegedly, a wooden dance platform was built in the cave but is unfortunately no longer there.
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| Dance Floor Cave |
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| Dance Floor Cave |
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| Dance Floor Cave |
Continuing on the Plataeu Walk, the path makes a short climb into the Kanangra Wilderness and the Kanangra Tops Plateau itself, rounding an old bridge that has been cordoned off. Once on the plateau, you'll find it is easy to navigate, as it is mostly bare rock and low grasses. While a path does make its way along the plateau, you can find the edge of the cliffs at almost any time to soak up the views. They are quite incredible.
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| Seymour Top forms part of the Kanangra Plateau |
The view is dominated by the Thurat Spires, a set of imposing rock outcrops on the opposite side of the valley as well as the depths of Kanangra Creek hundreds of metres below. As you follow the cliff edge you'll come across the area's most famous feature, a large overhanging rock that juts out from the cliff. Unsurprisingly, the posers love this spot but Kanangra-Boyd is spared any crowds thanks to its remoteness.
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| Spire Head, Thurat Spires and Kanangra Gorge |
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| Kanangra Gorge |
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| Kanangra Deep at the head of Kanagra Gorge |
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| Views along First Ascent Creek |
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| Spire Head |
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| The popular rock along Kanangra Walls |
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| Kanangra Gorge |
To make the most of my time in Kanangra, I had already decided to add the trip to Cottage Rock to my day, which involves a 5 km out-and-back hike along the Coal Seam Track and the Gingra Trail. The path diverges from the Plataeu Walk at a large rocky clearing - you may need to search around for the branch. The southern branch climbs up to the top of the ridge and continues along an eroded track which drops into a saddle and then climbs to Murrarang Top. On the other side is a short descent through a break in the cliff line. There are sections that are quite overgrown, so the going was pretty hard work.
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| Maxwell Top |
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| The Coal Seam Track |
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| Fallen trees to negotiate |
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| Some sections are heavily overgrown |
After breaching the cliffs, I reached Coal Seam Cave, named for obvious reasons. Hikers often use this area when tackling multi-day hikes through Kanangra, and there is a mouldy barrel collecting water dripping from the ceiling of the cave - safe for drinking so long as you treat it first. The coal seam is an obvious feature of the cave.
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| Coal Seam Cave |
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| Coal Seam Cave |
The Gingra Trail picks up from the Coal Seam Cave and allows hikers to get deep into the wilderness. It is, however, very overgrown at the moment. Though it's only 500 m from Coal Seam Cave to Cottage Rock, it took a great deal of effort to follow the path due to the vegetation. There's a short scramble onto Cottage Rock itself, where you will be rewarded with expansive views across the hills and valleys of the Kowmung River.
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| The short climb to Cottage Rock |
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| Atop Cottage Rock with the view back to Murrarang Top |
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| Eastern views from Cottage Rock |
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| Mount Jingery |
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| There is a short pile of rocks that helps to get on and off Cottage Rock |
After taking a break on Cottage Rock (and attending to some war wounds picked up along the way), I retraced my route back to Coal Seam Cave and then Kanangra Walls. All in all, it took around 2 hours to make the return journey to Cottage Rock - a bit longer than I expected.
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| Coal Seam Cave |
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| The break in the cliffs below Murrarang Head |
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| Some areas of the track are quite overgrown |
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| Coal Seam Track |
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| Back on the Kanangra Plateau |
It was mid-afternoon by the time I made it back to the plateau and those jaw-dropping views of Kanangra Gorge. The plan was to explore some more of the main plateau above Kanangra Walls before plotting a route back to the car park.
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| Kanangra Gorge and the top of Kanangra Falls |
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| Crossing Maxwell Top |
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| Brennan Top |
I followed the track eastward towards Brennan Top and the plateau's eastern edge. Here there are clear views towards Mount Cloudmaker and the hills and valleys beyond. For hikers making their way to Mount Cloudmaker, there is a breach in the cliffs called Gordon Smith Pass. The pass, which descends a slot in the cliffs, is named after Gordon Smith, a prominent bushwalker who died in a Japenese Prisoner of War Camp in World War II.
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| Crafts Wall and Mount Cloudmaker |
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| Mount Cloudmaker |
Smith was one of the "Tiger Walkers" of Sydney. The Tiger Walkers travelled light and fast in their explorations of new areas for which topographic maps did not exist. They were among the many who assembled information for the several Myles Dunphy sketch maps of the Blue Mountains.
Having reached the eastern edge of the main plateau, I decided it was time to start back towards the car park.
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| There is a fine view of Seymour Top from the adjacent plateau |
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| First Ascent Creek |
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| Kanangra Gorge |
While you are on the plateau, you can spend as little or as long as you want exploring the many viewpoints along the cliffs. The afternoon sun shines into the valley, illuminating the gorge and Thurat Spires. Truth be told, the photos don't really do this place justice - you really have to see it to truly absorb the sheer scale of it. |
| Kanangra Gorge |
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| Spire Head and Thurat Spires |
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| Maxwell Top |
Before long, I had almost made it back to the car park, deciding to stop off at the main lookout once again. After a few more photos it was back to the car for a well-earned bit to eat and the chance to air-dry a very wet tent, which is certainly one good use of Australia's abnormally strong sunshine. |
| Kanangra Gorge |
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| Kanangra Walls |
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