Royal Botanic Gardens, Sydney Harbour & Darling Harbour

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Route: The Domain, Woolloomooloo Finger Wharf, Mrs Macquaries Road, Mrs Macquaries Chair, Mrs Macquaries Point, Farm Cove, Royal Botanic Garden, Government House, Sydney Opera House, Cahill Walk, Circular Quay, Campbells Cove, Hickson Road Reserve, Hickson Road, Walsh Bay, Wulugui Walk, Barangaroo, Watermans Cove, Darling Harbour, Pyrmont Bridge, Pyrmont Bay, Tumbalong Park, Liverpool Street, Anzac Memorial, Hyde Park, The Domain

Date: 07/08/2021
From: The Domain

Parking: The Domain
Start Point: The Domain
Finish Point: The Domain
Region: Sydney

Route length: 12.2km
Time taken: 02:42
Average speed: 4.8km/h
Ascent: 191m
Descent: 201m

Points of Interest: Woolloomooloo, Mrs Macquaries Chair, Farm Cove, Sydney Opera House, Circular Quay, Sydney Harbour Bridge, Barangaroo, Darling Harbour

This is one of the very best hikes in Sydney - a tour around the main highlights of the city that include the Botanic Gardens, Sydney Opera House, the Harbour Bridge and the neighbouring Darling Harbour. Using public transport is the most logical way of getting to the centre of Sydney, and there are numerous train stations dotted along the route. My recommendation would be to start your hike from The Domain, on the fringe of the Royal Botanic Gardens. This way, you experience some of the best views the city has to offer.

The first stop from the car park is Woolloomooloo. The area of Woolloomooloo was originally a working-class suburb but now is largely gentrified thanks to the redevelopment of the waterfront, particularly the development on the Finger Wharf. Its interesting name is derived from the first homestead built in the area, however, it is not clear what Woolloomooloo actually referred to. The closest Aboriginal words are Wallamullah meaning place of plenty or Wallabahmullah meaning young black kangaroo. 

Boats moored at the Woolloomooloo wharf

I followed the wharf northwards to find the track that runs around the eastern edge of the Royal Botanic Garden, passing the Andrew Charlton Pool (named after one of Australia's Olympic medal-winning swimmers). Past the pool, at the tip of the Botanic Gardens, is Mrs Macquarie's Point which honours Governor Lachlan Macquarie's wife, Elizabeth, who had a chair carved out of rock in 1815. She often came to sit and watch ships enter and leave the harbour. Just around the corner from the chair is perhaps THE best view of the Sydney Opera House and Harbour Bridge. The view is at its best before midday when the sun is behind you.

Trees in the Royal Botanical Garden

Woolloomooloo

The opera house and harbour bridge from Mrs Macquaries Point

Sydney Opera House

The historic Rocks district

Farm Cove

A concrete path runs alongside the edge of Farm Cove, taking you into the heart of the Royal Botanic Garden. The garden is one of the oldest scientific institutions in Sydney, having been opened in 1816 and has played a major role in acclimatising plants from other regions. It is split into three areas; the Lower Garden around Farm Cove, the Middle Garden with its numerous beds and sculptures, the Palace Gardens and the Bennelong Precinct, home to Government House.

Farm Cove

Sydney Opera House

Sydney CBD

Sydney Opera House

Royal Botanic Gardens

The Botanic Gardens lie beneath the towers of the CBD

The Sydney Opera House is one of the world's most famous and distinctive buildings though its current design was close to never being realised. An international competition to design the opera house was announced in 1956, and when Jørn Utzon entered his proposal it was promptly relegated to the bin. When renowned American architect, Eero Saarinen was looking through the rejects he found Utzon’s entry and Utzon subsequently won the contract.

Approaching Sydney Opera House

The famous Opera House steps

Those iconic sails

The concept of the roof represented a ship’s billowed sails, a representation of Australia’s maritime history. At that point in time, no one knew exactly how challenging the construction of this roof would be. Eventually, it was discovered that the roof 'shells' could be derived from the planes of a sphere - a watershed moment in the design and construction of the building. Despite this achievement, Utzon became embroiled in the political controversies of the day, with his designs, schedules and cost estimates being questioned.

The sails in detail

Bennelong Point

The north-facing sail of the Opera House

It is said that the government at the time withheld money from Utzon. Utzon was stymied and subsequently resigned in 1966. Sadly Utzon and his family left Australia, never returning to see his concept completed.

Sydney Opera House

Benny the seal - the fur seal likes to hang out on the steps at Bennelong Point

The intricate tiles of the Sydney Opera House

The colour of the opera house is as famous as its design. There are more than 1 million 12x12cm ceramic tiles covering the shells, made in Sweden. The subtle chevron pattern is a glossy white-matte and cream colour that catches the light but doesn't glare and took three years to develop. You can get up close to the tiles as you make your way around the Opera House towards the bustling Circular Quay.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Circular Quay

The Opera House forecourt

Sydney Opera House

Circular Quay

Circular Quay is the birthplace of modern Australia for it was here, in 1788, that the first British fleet landed and established the penal colony which grew into modern-day Sydney. Why the name Circular Quay when it is clearly a rectangle? It's simply a shortening of Semi-Circular Quay which was the working port's original name and shape. Metal markers on the floor note where previous iterations of the docks once stood. Now, Circular Quay acts as a hub for Sydney thanks to the rail station and ferry wharves. Thousands of people visit daily, whether commuting into the city or arriving on one of the many cruise ships that dock during the summer months.

Sydney Harbour Bridge

The Museum of Contemporary Arts

Cadmans Cottage - one of the oldest of Sydney's colonial buildings

You can walk around the cove and, if cruise ships are not docked, walk in front of the terminal building to Campbells Cove. The cove forms part of Sydney's famed Rocks district, one of the oldest and most historic areas of the city. The cove is backed by beautifully restored warehousing and factory buildings along with the uber-expensive Park Hyatt hotel (a single night costs anything between $1000 and $2000). For that price, you get the iconic view of the Sydney Opera House on the opposite side of the harbour.

The Rocks

Sydney Opera House

Circular Quay - this is usually where the cruise ships dock

Sydney Opera House

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Campbells Cove

Campbells Cove

Hickson Road Reserve

Beyond the hotel is the imposing southern pylon of the Sydney Harbour Bridge which has its footing in Dawes Point Reserve, a form harbour gun battery. There is a modest museum in the southern pylon which is well worth the $19 admission fee - mainly thanks to the superb views from the top. 

Beneath the bridge

The bridge was designed and built by British firm Dorman Long of Middlesbrough and opened in 1932 (they later went on to build the Tyne Bridge in Newcastle). It is currently the tenth-longest spanning-arch bridge in the world and the tallest steel arch bridge, measuring 134m from top to water level. It is a magnificent beast. In addition to the road, the Harbour Bridge carries a railway and a pedestrian footpath that gives a superb view of Sydney Harbour and the iconic Sydney Opera House as well as an intimate view of the steel structure of the bridge itself.

I passed beneath the bridge to the west side of Dawes Point, into Walsh Bay and the old Wharves Precinct. The wharf buildings here were mostly constructed in 1918 to modernise Sydney's docks to handle steamships before they were converted to apartments, restaurants and cafes. It is now a major arts precinct and a beautiful area to explore, particularly on a warm sunny day like today. 

The view from Dawes Point

Ives Steps Wharf at Dawes Point

Walsh Bay

Walsh Bay boardwalk

Continuing on, I made my way to one of Sydney's newest open spaces, Barangaroo Reserve. The terraced lawns and cycle paths were opened in 2015 as part of the development of the old stevedoring docks at East Darling Harbour that includes the trio of International Towers and Crown Sydney - the tallest building in the city. Development at the site will be ongoing for the next few years to include a new metro station and several other tall buildings.

Millers Point

The Wulugul Walk at Barangaroo

ANZAC Bridge

Nawi Cove

International Towers

Crown Tower

The waterfront at Barangaroo leads to Darling Harbour, arguably one of Sydney's most vibrant areas. The former rail marshalling yards have been transformed into restaurants, shopping centres, museums and tourist attractions. I know Darling Harbour well as it is just behind my office on Kent Street so you'll often find me there on a lunch break. 

Darling Harbour during an international boat show

King Street Wharf

Darling Harbour

The most notable feature of the harbour is Pyrmont Bridge, a 1902 swing bridge built to accommodate the first vehicles in Sydney until it was permanently closed to vehicles in the 1980s. For 25 years the bridge carried a section of Sydney's curious monorail until it too was removed in 2013. 

I made my way over the bridge and around the Australian National Maritime Museum. Moored adjacent to the museum is a replica of the Endeavour, James Cook's world-famous ship. This particular version was built in the early 1990s and still plies the east coast of Australia. Also moored alongside the Endeavour are the submarine HMAS Onslow and the destroyer HMAS Vampire.

The replica HMB Endeavour

HMAS Onslow - you can board the vessel while visiting the museum

HMAS Vampire

Darling Harbour is encircled by a wide pedestrian area that links it to the nearby Darling Quarter and Tumbalong Park. The circular park is the centrepiece of the precinct and is used to host many outdoor events.

Pyrmont Bridge

Tumbalong Park and the Aware Super Theatre

A path heads away from Tumbalong Park, crossing Harbour Street and joining Liverpool Street which will take you east to the southern end of Hyde Park and the Anzac Memorial. The eight walls of the Hall of Service within the memorial display 1,701 different soils from New South Wales towns, cities and suburbs given as a home address by First World War enlistees.

As mentioned, the memorial occupies the southern end of Hyde Park - the oldest public parkland in Australia. The tree-lined park is home to several sculptures and fountains and is flanked by St Marys Cathedral, Sydney's largest church.

The Anzac Memorial and Pool of Reflection

Hyde Park

St Mary's Cathedral

Trees in Hyde Park

At the north end of Hyde Park, opposite St Mary's Cathedral, is the road leading back to the car park in The Domain where I concluded this hike. Sydney is a fantastic city for hiking and sightseeing and this route visits some of its most iconic locations. If you're only in Sydney for a few days, then I'd highly recommend this circuit to see some of the best sights the city has to offer.