Mount Solitary 14-11-2021
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Route: Golden Stairs, Botting's Lookout, Federal Pass, Ruined Castle Track, The Ruined Castle, Cedar Gap, Mount Solitary Walking Track, Korowal Edge, Mount Solitary, Chinamans Gully, Melville's Lookout, Mount Solitary Walking Track, Federal Pass, Golden Stairs
Date: 14/11/2021
From: Narrowneck
Parking: Glenraphael Drive
Start Point: Golden Stairs
Finish Point: Golden Stairs
Region: Blue Mountains
Route length: 14.8km
Time taken: 05:30
Average speed: 2.7km/h
Ascent: 921m
Descent: 1138m
Points of Interest: Golden Stairs, Federal Pass, Ruined Castle, Mount Solitary
Having gazed upon Mount Solitary many times from the cliffs and lookouts around Katoomba, it was finally time to achieve a bucket-list item of mine, a hike to the summit. After an abandoned attempt earlier in the year, I was back with a friend to take on the challenging day-hike to the summit.
Due to the distance of Mount Solitary from Katoomba, this was always going to be an out-and-back trip to the summit. The only way to do the full valley loop is either a) overnight camping at the summit b) a long hike with a pair of cars or c) being an athlete. As I'm not an athlete, we settled on the return trip option.
On a previous attempt at Mount Solitary, I was forced to start at the Furner Steps due to the closure of the Golden Stairs which adds several kilometres to the route. I ultimately ran out of time, with it being the middle of winter. The landslide that KO'd the Golden Stairs has now been cleared so, we drove the short distance along Narrowneck Plateau to the Golden Stairs parking area.
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| At the top of the Golden Stairs |
The route starts its descent towards Federal Pass, immediately from the parking area. The Golden Stairs are a little rougher than the more popular Giant Stairway but no less spectacular.
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| The huge landslip seen from Bottings Lookout |
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| Bottings Lookout |
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| Descending the Golden Stairs |
The stairs were originally used by miners who worked the shale deposits near the Ruined Castle. The track negotiated some small cliff faces by a series of ladders and chains before they were replaced by modern steps.
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| On the Golden Stairs |
The name is apparently derived from a hymn sung by members of the Salvation Army who conducted services in the Jamison Valley for the mining communities that lived and worked below the cliffs. The hymn was called "Walking Up The Golden Stairs".
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| The Golden Stairs has a great view of the route ahead |
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| The Golden Stairs |
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| Federal Pass |
Before long, we reached the bottom of the Golden Stairs where they join Federal Pass. The Federal Pass is one of the longer tracks in the Blue Mountains, joining the town of Leura in the east to the Ruined Castle in the west via the base of the cliffs. It was originally built by the Katoomba community, from Leura Forest to Katoomba Falls, before being extended along an old horse-drawn coal tramway line. From the bottom of Golden Stairs, we'd be hiking the final section out to the Ruined Castle.The Ruined Castle is a bit of a Blue Mountains icon, seen by many but visited by few. The rocky turret stands adjacent to Mount Solitary and requires a fair hike along Federal Pass to reach it - those who do are rewarded with a spectacular 360-degree of the southern Blue Mountains. What the photos below don't show is how windy it was, making it difficult to perch atop the summit.
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| Continuing over the rocky turrets of Ruined Castle |
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| Making the descent to Cedar Gap |
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| Climbing from Cedar Gap |
The first section from Cedar Gap is actually a long, steady ascent along a track you reach the bottom of a series of rocky walls. This is the true Korowal Edge and involves some entertaining scrambling up short gullies and around huge piles of rocks. The climb is interspersed with a couple of flat, exposed sections that have a tremendous view of the Kedumba Valley. There is no correct route though following scuffed rocks and the odd arrow etched onto the rocks will help you.
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| On the Korowal ridge |
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| A flavour of some of the scrambling up the ridge |
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| Looking back towards Ruined Castle |
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| The route up the ridge can be a little maze-like at times |
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| This section skirts the cliffs before regaining the ridge |
The climb is fairly tough by Blue Mountains standards (if you are primarily used to the tracks and stairways around Katoomba), however, it is more enjoyable than technically challenging if you have a bit of mountain experience.
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| The eastern abutment of Mount Solitary |
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| Chinamans Gully waterfall |
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| Atop Mount Solitary |
Before long, we emerged atop the eastern end of Mountain Solitary on the Korowal Plateau, a broad, flat area surrounded by trees (there are no views from the summit of Mount Solitary). There are a few clearings with fire rings and ample space for tents though there are no water sources in this area so, if you intend to camp here, you'll have to bring your own water from Ruined Castle.
We pressed on across the summit towards Chinamans Gully - the broad depression on Mount Solitary that can clearly be seen from the Katoomba Cliffs. It involves a reasonably steep descent down a rough track (which will need to be re-negotiated in ascent later) until you reach the camping area.
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| Descending to Chinamans Gully |
Chinamans Gully is the main camping area on Mount Solitary thanks to its sheltered location, open space and access to the creek (though water can be unreliable). There are also two lookouts at either end of the gully, the best being Melvilles Lookout which has a striking to the south, a view that you can only find by climbing Mount Solitary. It spans a large part of the Southern Blue Mountains – the Blue Breaks, The Kowmung and Coxs Gorges, The Gangerang Range – including Mt Cloudmaker, The Wild Dog Mountains and behind everything – Mt Colong and Kanangra Walls. |
| The camping area at Chinamans Gully |
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| Chinamans Gully |
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| Melvilles Lookout on the south side of Mount Solitary |
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| Lake Burragorang |
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| Melvilles Lookout |
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| Southern Blue Mountains panorama |
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| An interested visitor |
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| Distant views of Black Coola |
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| Mount Solitary |
At the opposite end of the gully is a unique view of the cliffs between Katoomba and Wentworth Falls, reached by following the creek to the cliff edge. You will pass the Gundungurra Aboriginal site - a series of sandstone overhangs where, if you look closely, you should be able to find Aboriginal paintings that have somehow survived the ravages of time.
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| Aboriginal painting in the sandstone caves |
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| Aboriginal painting at Gundungurra |
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| The view back towards Katoomba |
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| Causeway Creek |
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| The Three Sisters ridge |
Having explored the length of Chinamans Gully, it was time to draw our time on Mount Solitary to a close. This involves the long hike back to the car parks with a big climb at the end of the day, which is what makes a Mount Solitary outing a tricky prospect. The return to the Golden Stairs starts by returning to the summit and descending the Korowal ridge. |
| Atop Mount Solitary once again |
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| Looking along the Korowal ridge towards Katoomba |
The descent of the Korowal ridge is no more difficult than the ascent, however, facing out from the ridge gives you fine accompanying views as you tackle the various outcrops and gullies on your way down to Cedar Gap.
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| There is some interesting route finding along the ridge |
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| Descending the Korowal Ridge |
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| The Korowal Ridge |
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| A view of a distant Wentworth Falls |
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| Clouds build over Katoomba |
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| Clear Hill and the distant Wild Dog mountains |
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| Afternoon showers |
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| Ruined Castle and Castle Head |
After reaching Cedar Gap there is a short climb to the Ruined Castle campground which sits alongside Federal Pass below Ruined Castle. There are several places to pitch a tent here and, in an effort to reduce the pressure on the local bush, the National Parks Service has provided rainwater tanks and long-drop toilets. The large clearing was once home to the mining community.
From the coming area, it's an easy hike back along Federal Pass to the bottom of the Golden Stairs.
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| Reaching Cedar Gap |
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| Rainwater tanks at the Ruined Castle campground |
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| The dense bush surrounding the Ruined Castle campground |
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| Federal Pass |
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| Federal Pass |
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| At the bottom of the Golden Stairs |
Climbing the Golden Stairs is tiresome at the end of a long day, however, they are not particularly difficult and, after their recent repairs, in good condition (for now at least). A combination of wooden steps and metal stairways negotiate the 300m climb from the valley back to the car park on Narrowneck Plateau. The bonus is that the parking area stands at the very top of the steps and it wasn't long before we'd packed up and were on our way back to Sydney after a superb day out in the Blue Mountains. |
| Climbing the Golden Stairs |
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| A fine afternoon view of the landslip |
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| Golden Stairs |
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| Golden Stairs |
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| The walls of Narrowneck Plateau |
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| Mount Solitary and Ruined Castle |
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| The Golden Stairs at the newly re-built section |
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| Showers in the Megalong Valley - the view from the parking area |
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