Monday, 7 January 2019

Rocking Moor

Explore the hidden heather wilderness of the Nidderdale AONB on this captivating circuit across Rocking Moor. Starting from the dramatic Thruscross Reservoir dam, this scenic route follows the historic Six Dales Trail before climbing steadily onto the high moorland. You will discover Rocking Hall—a historic 1758 shooting lodge and its legendary rocking stone—before descending past the haunting stone ruins of the flooded West End flax mill along the shoreline.

Thruscross Reservoir, Rocking Moor & Rocking Hall

📍 NIDDERDALE AONB

Distance 12.7 km
Duration 03:40 hrs
Elev Gain +346 m
Elev Lost -344 m
Date 06 January 2019
Starting Point Thruscross Reservoir
Difficulty Moderate
Pace / Gear 4.0 km/h — Full day pack
Highlights Rocking Hall
🗺️ Interactive Route Map Pinch or use wheel to zoom
There are large swaths of North Yorkshire moorland that aren't included in either the Yorkshire Moors or the Yorkshire Dales National Parks. Much of this can be found in the Nidderdale AONB, just east of the Dales park boundary. The weird sculptured stones at Brimham Rocks are arguably the highlight of these parts, though our attention was drawn to some of the quiet moorland west of Harrogate.

A string of moors actually straddles the Dales / AONB boundary. These include Stean Moor, Blubberhouses Moor and Pock Stones Moor. You can find the elusive hill of Meugher in these parts. Our plan was to visit Rocking Moor and its lonely shooting lodge.

We parked at Thruscross Reservoir close to its impressive concrete dam. Built in 1966, Thruscross is the topmost and newest reservoir of the Washburn Valley. Often referred to as ‘West End’ after the village it flooded. However, West End was largely derelict anyway as a result of the decline in the flax industry.
Thruscross Reservoir
Firstly, we followed the Six Dales Trail as it heads south, away from the reservoir dam. The trail is a long-distance route connected Otley to Middleham and passes all but one of the reservoirs in the Washburn Valley though we would be following it for only a short distance. At an old signpost, we climbed steeply out of the valley to a road, crossing it before continuing on.
The Six Dales Trail
Thruscross Reservoirs' concrete dam
The dam once again
The Six Dales Trail
A path leads past Redshaw Hall, a C17-listed farm. We were delighted to see a kestrel sitting on a fence post. It waited long enough for me to get a couple of photos before swooping off. After negotiating the paths across Burnt Hill, we passed Spittle Ings House, ultimately joining a wide track that stretches out onto the moor.
The path to Redshaw Hall
Kestrel
Kestrel
Looking across to Kexgill Moor
The distant domes of Menwith Hill
Rocking Moor
The track climbs gradually over a couple of miles, rising into the mists atop the moor. At the highest point is Rocking Hall, looming out of the mist on this occasion.
Green Sike on Rocking Moor
One of the many grouse on Rocking Moor
Rocking Moor
Rocking Moor
Rocking Hall emerges from the mist
Rocking Hall is an early example of a shooting house, built in 1758 for the Bolton Abbey Estate. It is a substantial stone-built structure and features separate rooms for the shooters and beaters.
Rocking Hall
It takes its name from a large ‘rocking stone’ nearby. It lies next to an earlier 17th-century farmhouse. It is still in use (though accessible to the public thanks to the open alcoves on either side of the main door) and has been visited by many distinguished guests, including King George V in 1911 and ourselves in 2019.
The rocking stone
A close up of the rocking stone
An unusual figure above the Rocking Hall doorway
Rocking Hall
From the shooting house, we headed north back out onto the open moor. A narrow path winds through the heather following a line of grouse butts set out around Rocking Hall. The path passes along the top of Bank Edge, descending Foulgate Bank to meet a bridleway. The bridleway crosses the moor to meet the road at Red Gate.
Heading out onto the moor
Rocking Hall grouse butt
The Great Stray
Rocking Hall disappears into the mist
Looking to Pockstones Moor
Bridleway at Fox Holes
Boundary stones at Red Gate
Whit Moor Road
We followed the road downhill to a bridge crossing Capelshaw Beck, a small stream that flows into Thruscross Reservoir. It is possible to follow the reservoir shore from here, though it's not clear from the map. On the shoreline are the remains of the flax mill at West End, the flooded village I mentioned previously. In particularly dry weather the foundations of some of the cottages appear. It's rumoured that the old river bridge is hidden in the depths too.
Interesting light over Rocking Moor
Snow showers
The path to Thruscross Reservoir
West End flax mill
West End flax mill
The flax mill prior to the construction of the reservoir
After the remains of the mill, the path follows the shore of the reservoir for a couple of miles, taking us back to the dam and the car park where we started. I find it interesting that this area of moorland is not part of the Yorkshire Dales (for whatever reason). However, with shifting boundaries, I'm sure it's only a matter of time. 

The Thruscross Reservoir and Rocking Moor circuit is a fantastic hidden gem, seamlessly mixing wild heather landscapes with fascinating industrial and estate history. Passing from the stark engineering of the reservoir dam to the lonely heights of Rocking Hall is an unforgettable way to experience Yorkshire's quieter side. Once you complete the loop past the atmospheric mill ruins, you'll be right back at the car park ready for a well-earned pub lunch nearby.

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