The Snowdon Horseshoe

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Route: Pen-y-Gwyrd, Bwlch y Gwyddel, Pen-y-pass, Pyg Track, Bwlch y Moch, Crib Goch, Bwlch Coch, Garnedd Ugain, Crib-y-Ddysgl, Bwlch Glas, Yr Wyddfa, Watkin Path, Bwlch y Saethau, Bwlch Ciliau, Y Lliwedd West Peak, Y Lliwedd East Peak, Lliwedd Bach, Gallt y Wenallt Llyn Llydaw, Cwm Dyli, Miners' Track, Pen-y-pass, Pen-y-Gwyrd

Date: 21/04/2018
From: Pen-y-Gwyrd Hotel

Parking: Laybys on A498
Start Point: Pen-y-pass
Region: Snowdonia

Route length: 11.7 miles (18.8 km)
Time taken: 06:11
Average speed: 1.9 mph
Ascent: 1,402m
Descent: 1,397m

Summits: Crib Goch (923m), Garnedd Ugain (1065m), Yr Wyddfa (1085m), Y Lliwedd (898m), Y Lliwedd East Peak (893m), Lliwedd Bach (818m), Gallt y Wenallt (619m)

Other points of interest: Glaslyn, Summit Station, Hefod Eryri

The Snowdon Horseshoe needs little introduction. It is widely regarded as one of the best mountain days in the whole country, and probably the best outside of Scotland.

This would be my second attempt at the Snowdon Horseshoe after completing it a few years ago under the watchful eye of a Mountain Leader. This time, confident in my skills and the route, I would be tackling it alone. That said, being a Saturday with superb weather, it was highly unlikely that I would have the ridge to myself.

The Snowdon Horseshoe seen from the layby on the A498

Snowdon in the early morning light

I arrived at Pen y Pass at 7am, hoping to find a space but, alas, it was already full, even at that time in the morning. Instead, I defaulted to plan B which was to park over the county boundary in Conwy and walk back up to the pass - an addition of around a mile each way.

The path from Pen-y-Gwyrd at Nant Cynnyd

After a car boot breakfast and cup of coffee, I set off to the Pen-y-Gwyrd Hotel and onto the recently built path that avoids a perilous walk along the road. Once at Pen y Pass, it was obvious it was going to be a busy day. Scores of people were either hanging around at the toilets or setting off for the mountain and it was only 8am. I don't blame them - Snowdon is a must when the weather is clear.

Gallt yr Wenallt

Craig Llyn Teryn

Following a large group, I joined the Pyg Track as it starts its climb around the crags of Careg Gwalch and up to Bwlch y Moch - the Pass of the Pig. I passed the large group as they stopped to wait for their comrades leaving me free to make the diversion towards Crib Goch, following in the wake of a well-prepared looking couple.

Looking down to Nanygwynant

Crib Goch from the Pyg Track

The Llanberis Pass

Crib Goch

Leaving the Pyg Track ay Bwlch y Moch

I'm told that some people mistake Crib Goch for Snowdon as it's the largest and pointiest thing that can be seen as you reach Bwlch y Moch though there are now several signs to attempt to discourage people from making this mistake. Crib Goch is not a place to find yourself unexpectedly.

A warning posted on one of the stiles

The initial climb up Crib Goch's lower slopes is scruffy and steep, mostly climbing rough scree or an indistinct path. Around halfway is a rocky wall that requires some entertaining scrambling - all at Grade 1 - after which the character of the ridge changes.

Crib Goch

Craig Fach and Llyn Llydaw

Panorama from Bwlch y Moch

Crib Goch

The Glyders

Starting the climb up Crib Goch

Looking down to Llyn Llydaw

After the rocky step, Crib Goch becomes more blocky in its appearance you'll no doubt have seen in numerous pictures. It's still very much hands-on as you climb up the ridge towards an obvious summit, leaving Llyn Llydaw and the Afon Nant Peris far below. I took my time as I was quickly gaining ground on another large group but, despite my best attempts, we arrived at Crib Goch's eastern top at the same time.

Crib Goch's east ridge

Scrambling up towards the eastern top

Glyder Fawr

The east ridge

The east ridge

Snowdon and Crib Goch

The ridge is an awe-inspiring sight and not one for the faint-hearted. 500ft drops on either side make it an intimidating place but the crest of the ridge makes an ideal handhold and adds a measure of reassurance. It is possible to walk right along the top and there are many places where this is the easiest option if you can stomach the exposure.

Crib Goch

Crib Goch

Setting off along the ridge

Crib Goch

Cwm Uchaf and Garnedd Ugain

Cwm Uchaf and Llyn Glas

Crib Goch

Y Lliwedd, Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain from Crib Goch's summit

I made it to the summit which stands around halfway along the ridge and paused to take in the surroundings having managed to pass much of the group as they edged along. Up ahead are the tall, spiky pinnacles that need to be negotiated before you can reach the relative safety of Bwlch Coch. The most obvious and well-worn route heads around the base of the first and second pinnacles into the gap before the third. A short scramble up some slabs takes you around the third and final pinnacle before dropping down into Bwlch Coch.

The beginning of the pinnacles

Llyn LLydaw and Y Lliwedd

The Pinnacles

The Pinnacles

The scramble up the final pinnacle

Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain over Bwlch Coch

Y Lliwedd, Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain

Garnedd Ugain over Bwlch Coch

Onwards from Bwlch Coch is another long scramble up the eastern ridge of Garnedd Ugain. As with Crib Goch, this steepens and narrows towards the summit before thrusting you out onto a broad grassy plateau, capped by the customary trig pillar. This would probably be regarded as a classic were it not preceded by Crib Goch.

Bwlch Coch and Garnedd Ugain

Hikers on Crib Goch

Garnedd Ugain's east ridge

Looking back to Crib Goch

Garnedd Ugain's east top

Snowdon

Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw

Approaching the summit

Garnedd Ugain's summit

Around from Garnedd Ugain is the busy Bwlch Glas - the meeting point of the Llanberis Path, the Pyg Track, Miners' Track and the Snowdon Ranger Path. It is here that you start to experience the surreal nature of Wales' highest summit.

Mynydd Mawr

The Nantlle Ridge 

Snowdon and Bwlch Glas 

Y Lliwedd and Snowdon

Glaslyn

Climbing to the summit

As you well know, the summit of Snowdon is home to a railway station, bringing hundreds of tourists up from Llanberis without the arduousness of a three-hour climb. Having come along one of Wales' premier scrambles it can be a strange sensation to be rubbing shoulders with grandparents and toddlers alike. That said, I love it - there's nothing quite like it in the country. The summit was absolutely mobbed which was even more remarkable considering the train was yet to start its summer service.

A busy Snowdon summit

Snowdon's summit looking west

The trig pillar

The industrialisation of Britain brought about the creation of the railway that runs from Llanberis to Snowdon's summit. In 1894, 150 men with picks, shovels and dynamite built two viaducts, carved out a hundred-metre cutting from solid rock, constructed several bridges and laid almost eight kilometres of track up a one-in-seven gradient to the top of a mountain – all in fourteen months. It is the only public rack and pinion railway in the United Kingdom.

As for Snowdon itself, it has a magnificent view, befitting its position as Wales' highest peak.

The view from Snowdon looking east

Llyn Llydaw and Y Lliwedd

It was only 11am by the time I set off from Snowdon's summit. Ahead is a steep, slippery descent down the Watkin Path into Bwlch Saethau and Bwlch Ciliau, the depressions that separate Snowdon from Y Lliwedd. Viewed from here, Y Lliwedd is a magnificent mountain and were it not for the presence of Snowdon next door, it would be much busier than it is.

Inscriptions on the summit cafe

Looking across Cwm Clogwyn

Snowdon's South Ridge

Cwm Tregalan

The steep descent down the Watkin Path

Y Lliwedd

Crags of Clogwyn Du

The Watkin Path

Clogwyn y Garnedd

Snowdon

Looking back up the Watkin Path

More scrambling is required to reach the summit of Y Lliwedd but the rewards are more superb views across Glaslyn and Llyn Llydaw, including a profile of Crib Goch, complete with ant-like scramblers.

Y Lliwedd

Llyn Llydaw

Moel Siabod

Y Lliwedd

Snowdon and Bwlch y Saethau

The crags of Y Lliwedd

Snowdon and Garnedd Ugain

Snowdon and Cwm Tregalan

Y Lliwedd

Snowdon, Bwlch y Saethau and Bwlch Ciliau 

Y Lliwedd's summit 

Panorama from Y Lliwedd

Y Lliwedd has a second peak which is almost unavoidable before the path crosses a shallow depression and climbs over Lliwedd Bach, another minor summit of Y Lliwedd, before descending towards Cwm Dyli. However, instead of calling it a day, I had always planned on adding the 'final nail' to the horseshoe by visiting the distant peak of Gallt y Wenallt.

Y Lliwedd East Peak

Summit of the East Peak

Llyn Llydaw from the East Peak

Lliwedd Bach

Lliwedd Bach's summit

Y Lliwedd, Snowdon, Garnedd Ugain and Crib Goch

Crib Goch - the Pinnacles can clearly be seen to the left

Gallt y Wenallt

While this isn't necessary to complete the horseshoe, Gallt y Wenallt is a Nuttall and a walk out to the summit adds around 2 miles to the horseshoe - if you walk out and back. The grassy ridge is a far cry from the neighbouring mountains and the undulations are quite tiresome. That said, I had the whole ridge and summit to myself.

The Glyders

Gallt y Wenallt

Cwm Dyli

Clouds over Nantygwyrd

I took a well-earned break at Gallt y Wenallt, just as some interesting looking high clouds rolled in. We had been forecast some late evening thunderstorms - perhaps this was them arriving early? As luck would have it the clouds remained interesting and high level before drifting off again, leaving further sun for the final part of the walk.

Gallt y Wenallt's summit

Clouds over the Moelwyns

Moel Siabod

Having read a few descriptions for this addition to the route, I was suitably put off descending directly from Gallt y Wenallt into Cwm Dyli as it is pathless and puts you into some uninviting looking bogs which would spoil a good walk. Instead, it was back up towards Lliwedd Bach to meet the path I had left an hour earlier to descend to the head of Cwm Dyli and join the masses once again on the Miner's Track at Llyn Llydaw.

Llyn Llydaw

The path down to Cwm Dyli

The shores of Llyn Llydaw

Snowdon

Crib Goch

The walk doesn't quite end here as there is still a mile or two of walking to be done, firstly by following the Miner's track to Pen y Pass and then returning down Afon Trawsnant to the Pen y Gwyrd hotel. Looking at the crowds waiting for the bus, I was thankful I had opted against getting the park and ride from Llanberis.

The old barracks at Llyn Teryn

The Miner's Track

Pen y Pass

Nantgwynant

The path at Nant Cynnyd

This is, without a doubt one of the very best mountain days in the country - certainly the best I've ever completed. It has a mix of everything from the edge of your seat drama of Crib Goch to the bustling summit of Snowdon, hands-on excitement and a few moments of contemplative strolling. The views and scenery throughout that day are absolutely epic, from the moment you leave the car to the final few metres of the Miners' Track. This is a proper day out.